Solder power cable directly to circuit board

[Chrb1985]

Hi!

I want to eliminate the possibility of the cable getting in conflict with something and falling out or any other possible thing that could occure that result in cable getting pulled out. I already soldered the EQMOD USB cables 6wires directly to the 6 wires that's connected to a 6pin plug at the circuit board. I made a small hole in the polar finder cap and pulled the cable through. This works like a charm and it much less hassle than before. It don't look good, so I'm redoing that job tonight with a new fresh Zwo lan/wan cable.

Since I'm already going to take it all apart I want to solder the power cable directly to the circuit board and run the cable through the same hole do they run parallel up to the primalucelab eagle 4 computer.

I think the soldering part is smooth sailing but I'm not quit sure on how to resolder the power plugg connector from the circuit board. Any one here who have done this before? Or is it another smarter washer way of doing this?

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Personally, I'd attach a TY-Rap base (glue/sticky pad) adjacent to the input socket, then using a velcro ty-rap, secure the cable to the pad, leaving a small loop, so that nothing gets tangled....  

[Chrb1985]

Okay. I'm in the middle of the project right now. Here's some progress pictures.

Wish I knew if yellow is + or if red is + 🤦

Did not want to destroy the plug..

[Spile]

A simple multimeter is a very useful tool to have at hand and will make it easy to identify + and -.

[knobby]

If you don't have a meter but can solder ... You could use a small battery, some cable and a lamp to make a DIY tester.

[Astrofriend]

I did this modification to both my EQ6 and HEQ5 mount long time ago. To have the risk that the DC connector slip out during the night is an experience no one want.

 

Lars

[bosun21]

1 hour ago, knobby said:

If you don't have a meter but can solder ... You could use a small battery, some cable and a lamp to make a DIY tester.

That won't help with finding the polarity.

[Chrb1985]

3 hours ago, Astrofriend said:

I did this modification to both my EQ6 and HEQ5 mount long time ago. To have the risk that the DC connector slip out during the night is an experience no one want.

 

Lars

Did you run into any problems? I tried to start it up now. And it won't work. When I connect it to the eagle PC the PC goes in protect and turns off. I measured my soldering points and it seems to be fine.. i splittet the yellow cable and soldered it to both the - points on the circuit board and the red wire to the +. On the underside of the circuit board I solder the two - points together. Mabye I should not have done that?

I got a multimeter. I just did not want to go look for it earlier. 🤣

[Chrb1985]

[Chrb1985]

I actually think it's the eagle 12.8V power cable that's the problem. The wire is "dissolving" in the end with the screw on plug that goes in the eagle. This plug has 3 connection pins but the cable itself only have 2. Yellow and red. And when I look close it's actually 3 pins that goes all the way through🤔 many the 2wires just got twisted and therefore touches each other. Seems to me to be plausible. But can't seem to think that when the female connector on the eagle have 3 pins and the cable plugg have three pins, many 1 of the 2 cables was solder on to the 1pin that's now "alone" (?) 

I'll attach some pictures..

 

[Chrb1985]

Attached picture of the soldering on the underside of circuitboard

[bosun21]

The solder has been blown off the C1 terminal (red and black wires) That's the pool of solder slightly down and opposite the terminal C1.

[Chrb1985]

4 hours ago, bosun21 said:

The solder has been blown off the C1 terminal (red and black wires) That's the pool of solder slightly down and opposite the terminal C1.

Okay so what do I do to fix that?

 

[AstroKeith]

I'm going to be frank.

Messing with modern electronics requires some basic tools and knowledge. 

Mutlimeter - essential
Temperature controlled iron with narrow tip - essential
Sharp side cutters - essential
Calibrated wire strippers - almost essential
Solder sucker or soldering wicking material
Heat shrink sleeving - essential

Looking at the rear of the connector you have soldered is an example of disaster waiting to happen. Where is the sleeving over the joints for instance.

Few circuit boards have reverse polarity protection and so the consequences of a mistake are big. 

At the bottom of your last photo, at C30 & C31 there is extensive heat damage - Also above it there is damage and the IC's look bad.

I think you may have fried your board.

[Stuart1971]

That does look a pretty poor job TBH, sorry just saying it how it is….and how it looks  😮😮
would like to see the other side of the board where the wires are actually attached….🤔

Edited October 8, 2023 by Stuart1971

[Stuart1971]

1 hour ago, Chrb1985 said:

Okay so what do I do to fix that?

 

Get a new board, and use it as it comes, throw the soldering iron in the garbage…👍🏻
if you are really bothered about the power cable pulling out, just change the input power connecter for a screw on type, only 2 wires to solder and well away from the main board….

Edited October 8, 2023 by Stuart1971

[scotty38]

or do the sticky pad and ty-wrap thing as suggested earlier, no "bodging" required and completely reversible.

[Chrb1985]

1 hour ago, AstroKeith said:

I'm going to be frank.

Messing with modern electronics requires some basic tools and knowledge. 

Mutlimeter - essential
Temperature controlled iron with narrow tip - essential
Sharp side cutters - essential
Calibrated wire strippers - almost essential
Solder sucker or soldering wicking material
Heat shrink sleeving - essential

Looking at the rear of the connector you have soldered is an example of disaster waiting to happen. Where is the sleeving over the joints for instance.

Few circuit boards have reverse polarity protection and so the consequences of a mistake are big. 

At the bottom of your last photo, at C30 & C31 there is extensive heat damage - Also above it there is damage and the IC's look bad.

I think you may have fried your board.

Can you point out more specific what I need to do too fix my problem?

I'll attach some more pictures of my equipment and some more pictures of both side of the circuitboard 👍

[AstroKeith]

1 hour ago, Chrb1985 said:

Can you point out more specific what I need to do too fix my problem?

I'll attach some more pictures of my equipment and some more pictures of both side of the circuitboard 👍

[AstroKeith]

OK.

You do seem to have some adequate tools. The soldering iron temperature isnt set? 

1. Sleeve connections on the back of connectors
2. Strip less insulation and make sure the copper is well tinned before joining to the pcb or connector. Use fresh solder.
3. I cant see why the yellow wire forks just before the pcb. They are joined on the pcb and look like positive supply.
4. The large yellow sleeve is likely to put a strain on the joints.
5. Looking at the board, I would say you have wired the red wire to ground.

 

[bosun21]

2 hours ago, scotty38 said:

or do the sticky pad and ty-wrap thing as suggested earlier, no "bodging" required and completely reversible.

And if he uses a 90 degree connector with this method it’s virtually impossible to fall out throughout the night.

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Sorry to say it, but soldering cables direct to the PCB, WILL, over time and temperature differentials, lift the track from the PCB and break connections.....

 

Edited October 8, 2023 by Dr_Ju_ju

[malc-c]

That's an accident waiting to happen.  The reason manufactures use connectors are more than just the convenience of easily connectivity.  They take most of the support of the weight or movement of the wires.  Soldering direct means that the weight or the harness and any flexing of the cables is relying entirely on the solder joint.  If the joint is sound then given time the wires will brake, or will lift the tracks as suggested.

I have to agree with  the other comments... Working on electronic takes a certain level of expertise and to be blunt whilst you have enthusiasm you lack the skills.  You can have all the tools, but unless you know how to use them it's pointless.

One other thing to take on board, these motor boards lack protection circuitry.  Apply 12v to the wrong connection and it's good night for the board - Over the past two-three years I've repaired dozens of PIC16F886 based control boards which have been damaged simply by plugging the wrong connector in to the wrong port. 

Sorry if I seem blunt, but on this occasion it's so you don't end up frying the board and then need a replacement.  

Edited October 8, 2023 by malc-c

[Chrb1985]

4 hours ago, AstroKeith said:

OK.

You do seem to have some adequate tools. The soldering iron temperature isnt set? 

1. Sleeve connections on the back of connectors
2. Strip less insulation and make sure the copper is well tinned before joining to the pcb or connector. Use fresh solder.
3. I cant see why the yellow wire forks just before the pcb. They are joined on the pcb and look like positive supply.
4. The large yellow sleeve is likely to put a strain on the joints.
5. Looking at the board, I would say you have wired the red wire to ground.

 

Okay thanks for good info. I'm not too sure I understood all of it. So can you please give me a link to what actually is + - on the board? Mabye a picture also? I'm pretty sure nothing is burnt. I have inspected it in detail. But I might be wrong. So if I could just get the wire diagram, i'll try again. 👍 But with the advice you gave me

[Stuart1971]

13 minutes ago, Chrb1985 said:

Okay thanks for good info. I'm not too sure I understood all of it. So can you please give me a link to what actually is + - on the board? Mabye a picture also? I'm pretty sure nothing is burnt. I have inspected it in detail. But I might be wrong. So if I could just get the wire diagram, i'll try again. 👍 But with the advice you gave me

I am totally at a loss, as to how you managed to do all this soldering, and now only just asking which the + and - are on the board, surely that should have been a question to ask before you started….🤔🤔 or maybe it’s just me….

also, in case this was one of the things you did not understand, “well tinned’ means that you have solder on both the end of the cable you are soldering, and also on the spot on the board to solder too, as you don’t want to have to add more solder while heating the joint, this can cause other bits to overheat, or at least in my experience…so solder on both, then touch the cable to the board and heat both until they flow, then remove iron.

But I am sure other more experienced people will have better ways of explaining  this…

Edited October 8, 2023 by Stuart1971