AR3335 with Light Bridge

[CraigT82]

Inspired by @AbsolutelyN and his 250mm Quattro it it's white light role, I have this week made up a DIY white light filter for my 300p using Baader ND5.0 film and had it out in the sun yesterday and today.  Yesterday's results were terrible but today's are a little better, though I think this big scope is going to need some decent seeing to work.

This morning at just before 7.30am I captured 5k frames and stacked 10%.  Used my Altair 290m and Baader Solar continuum filter, with Baader 2.25x barlow. I tried again at around lunchtime but the image was absolute mush.

Processing was AS3!>IMPPG>Gimp

Edited June 22, 2023 by CraigT82

[Rusted]

Well done, but is the Barlow vital to proceedings? Do you need it to reach focus?

A smaller image scale would not be so badly affected by the seeing conditions.
I have used a range of five "Barlow" powers depending entirely on the seeing.
Mostly using single GPCs on the nose of the camera.

Before dismissing the larger aperture you might benefit from a skeleton tube.
Though still largely unproven, some solar imagers are enjoying success after building such "open" tubes.
I'd do some online homework on the subject before launching into a new build though.

Local seeing can vary enormously depending on time of day. Buildings under the light path, etc.
Some swear by early morning seeing. Before the sun's heat causes thermals.
My own seeing was best mid morning and [sometimes] just before sunset. Lots of big trees like yours.
This will vary from day to day and can only be confirmed by frequent imaging and/or visual monitoring.

[AbsolutelyN]

Fantastic, would love to have go at solar imaging with a 12" newt! I built two filters for mine, one of them stops the aperture down to 200mm and that's the one I've had most success with - makes for an f/6 200mm newt.  I find persistence, collimation and focusing are key, I get mush at all times of day (99.99% of the day) but persist long enough and you can chance upon a brief moment of clarity - that's all you need - a fraction of a second of good seeing (and patience to process all the data). Good luck, look forward to seeing more. 

[neil phillips]

On 22/06/2023 at 15:05, CraigT82 said:

Inspired by @AbsolutelyN and his 250mm Quattro it it's white light role, I have this week made up a DIY white light filter for my 300p using Baader ND5.0 film and had it out in the sun yesterday and today.  Yesterday's results were terrible but today's are a little better, though I think this big scope is going to need some decent seeing to work.

This morning at just before 7.30am I captured 5k frames and stacked 10%.  Used my Altair 290m and Baader Solar continuum filter, with Baader 2.25x barlow. I tried again at around lunchtime but the image was absolute mush.

Processing was AS3!>IMPPG>Gimp

You like to do things the hard way. As you say large optics like this will be difficult to thermally settle. But when it does with good seeing the results will be good. Showing some good structure Craig. I got a reasonable result with 245mm Newtonian stopped down to 190mm. I know the filter protects, but i got paranoid. I didn't like baking my old cherished Newtonian. But results were starting to look reasonable when i stopped. 

Well done on going all out on this. Not easy

[Pete Presland]

That is a fine looking close image Craig.

I find it is a trade off between altitude and heat with my C9.25. I rarely use it for Solar imaging mare than a few of hours after Sunrise, it requires excellent seeing conditions especially at the over sampled focal lengths i tend to image at.

What did you use to lag your scope with?

[CraigT82]

14 hours ago, Pete Presland said:

What did you use to lag your scope with?

Thanks Pete, it’s just radiator backing from screwfix…

https://www.screwfix.com/p/radiator-reflector-foil-470mm-x-4m-1-88m-/88629?store=&kpid=88629&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwkeqkBhAnEiwA5U-uMymfB-IeUCyX48Cj3FNZa_gcfCJK-OSCCcyV5eVs7yVA1CDm9vTUvxoCwR0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

i think I’ll have the same issues as you at my location, better conditions in the morning:  probably due to the tarmac, roofs and concrete all around the estate warming up as the sun rises. 

[CraigT82]

On 23/06/2023 at 18:57, neil phillips said:

You like to do things the hard way. As you say large optics like this will be difficult to thermally settle. But when it does with good seeing the results will be good. Showing some good structure Craig. I got a reasonable result with 245mm Newtonian stopped down to 190mm. I know the filter protects, but i got paranoid. I didn't like baking my old cherished Newtonian. But results were starting to look reasonable when i stopped. 

Well done on going all out on this. Not easy

Thanks Neil, might try making a stop down ring to see if that helps at all. Though I reckon it’s just a case of catching a moment of good seeing and the results will come, though I’m always impatient about getting results when I’m trying something new! 

Edited June 27, 2023 by CraigT82

[CraigT82]

On 23/06/2023 at 10:50, AbsolutelyN said:

Fantastic, would love to have go at solar imaging with a 12" newt! I built two filters for mine, one of them stops the aperture down to 200mm and that's the one I've had most success with - makes for an f/6 200mm newt.  I find persistence, collimation and focusing are key, I get mush at all times of day (99.99% of the day) but persist long enough and you can chance upon a brief moment of clarity - that's all you need - a fraction of a second of good seeing (and patience to process all the data). Good luck, look forward to seeing more. 

Thanks Tristan, yes I was afraid you’d say it was just down to waiting for the still moments, as that requires time which is what I have least of! Though if I can get close to the results that you produce though it’d be worth it for sure 

[CraigT82]

On 23/06/2023 at 08:35, Rusted said:

Well done, but is the Barlow vital to proceedings? Do you need it to reach focus?

A smaller image scale would not be so badly affected by the seeing conditions.
I have used a range of five "Barlow" powers depending entirely on the seeing.
Mostly using single GPCs on the nose of the camera.

Before dismissing the larger aperture you might benefit from a skeleton tube.
Though still largely unproven, some solar imagers are enjoying success after building such "open" tubes.
I'd do some online homework on the subject before launching into a new build though.

Local seeing can vary enormously depending on time of day. Buildings under the light path, etc.
Some swear by early morning seeing. Before the sun's heat causes thermals.
My own seeing was best mid morning and [sometimes] just before sunset. Lots of big trees like yours.
This will vary from day to day and can only be confirmed by frequent imaging and/or visual monitoring.

Thanks Rusted, yes it’s going to need a lot more effort and persistence so I’m going to have to be patient. I did capture some videos without the barlow and although they seemed sharper initially, when scaled to match the barlowed image there was noticeable less detail than with the barlow. 
 

Not too sure about skeletonising the 300p… although it might make it a bit lighter 

[Rusted]

The best way to get lucky with seeing is to image as often as possible.
This is usually only possible with retirement.

[neil phillips]

3 hours ago, Rusted said:

The best way to get lucky with seeing is to image as often as possible.
This is usually only possible with retirement.

That is so true on all fronts. If you want to score goals you have to be on the pitch

[maw lod qan]

Wonderful image!

I have a question. 

What is your scope covered with and what is the purpose?