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Getting comfy at the eyepiece


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Apologies if there have already been threads about this, I tried to search but couldn't find any.

I am very new to observing, but one thing I cannot seem to sort is how to get comfy at the eyepiece.

If I am viewing for example Jupiter or Saturn then the eyepiece is in or around head level so it's very easy to look through the eyepiece comfortably.

But, if I am viewing for example Polaris or Vega then the eyepiece is quite low down..but not low enough to sit on the ground and too low if sitting in a stool. I seem to end up half crouching with bad posture and getting a sore back.

Does anyone have some good tips in this regard ?

Kind thanks

C

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8 minutes ago, Louis D said:

What telescope are you using that swings through such a wide variety of eyepiece heights?  A giant Dob?  If so, Starmaster used to make an observing chair/stool that you could probably duplicate with a bit of woodworking and pipe cutting skills.

I believe its a DX102 starsense from other posts, so a basic Alt-AZ on a tripod. Likely no pillar attachment available for that so a case of extending the tripod legs or sitting lower.

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In that case, I would suggest putting a longer dovetail on the tube so you can move the pivot axis back toward the focuser.  You would then need to put ankle weights or similar around the back of the scope to bring it back into balance.  That way, the eyepiece end would swing through a smaller range and would also be less likely to hit the tripod legs.

Notice below how I have a 14" long dovetail plate on my 90mm APO because, despite being a triplet, it's still massively back heavy thanks to the 2.5" focuser, finders, 2" diagonal, and my use of heavy 2" eyepieces.  As a result, the eyepiece swings through a fairly modest range of heights.  With heavier eyepieces like my ES-92s, I move the clamp even further back toward the eyepiece than shown, practically next to the focuser housing.  Moving the tube rings backward isn't as much of an option because they only fit in one position back into the fitted case, and I don't feel like moving them each time.

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Edited by Louis D
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I have the same problem with my Stellamira 80mm. I’m thinking of buying a Berlebach observing chair from FLO when they are back in stock. I never have the same problem with my 200p dob as it’s always just about right with a kitchen stall

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17 hours ago, YogSothoth said:

I have the same problem with my Stellamira 80mm. I’m thinking of buying a Berlebach observing chair from FLO when they are back in stock. I never have the same problem with my 200p dob as it’s always just about right with a kitchen stall

I recently got the Berlebach Charon chair and it is really good. Feels well built and I’m sure I will use it for a long time. I should have gotten one earlier. Had been using a foldable chair and cushions to adjust the height before.

Edited by davhei
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An astronomy chair is the best solution. Quickly adjustable and folding for easy storage. Your back will thank you in time too. Worth spending on as it should last a lifetime. Works with any future scope or mount except really big dobs. Even with binoculars. Good diy project for those who can. 

Makes it much easier to relax and  keep your head still for long and detailed observation and helps with smooth manual tracking. Changing the tripod or telescope clamp could mess-up any aligned mount. Another bonus is that tripods are more rigid with the legs less extended. Win, win, win?

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Just this week, 25585, who used to regularly participate on SGL, had his Berlebach Nix II chair snap at the hinge, dumping him on the ground.  Apparently, the metal rod that is the hinge in simply threaded through holes in the wood without any reinforcing grommets.  All the stresses were focused at two points, and the woodgrain split, releasing the hinge rod.

Do other folding observing chair designs avoid focusing all of the stresses at the hinge onto bare wood?

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59 minutes ago, Louis D said:

Just this week, 25585, who used to regularly participate on SGL, had his Berlebach Nix II chair snap at the hinge, dumping him on the ground.  Apparently, the metal rod that is the hinge in simply threaded through holes in the wood without any reinforcing grommets.  All the stresses were focused at two points, and the woodgrain split, releasing the hinge rod.

Do other folding observing chair designs avoid focusing all of the stresses at the hinge onto bare wood?

Oh no. I wonder if he will specify titanium and carbon fibre for chairs in future, just to be safe?

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Yes, including the Berlebach Oberon and similar plywood designs with a  metal hinge. This type do flex slightly and I would not recommend them to the heaviest users. It is disappointing that Berlebach had a *failure, perhaps due to poor timber stress grading. But this is not a reason not to use a chair, or a wooden one.

I have a very robust welded metal chair, but it was so heavy and slow to adjust that it is now used at my workbench instead. 

@Louis D nice to see your DS mount, sometimes wish I had kept mine!

*PS there have been many millions of wooden deck chairs, and other folding chairs with that joint so it must work.

 

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I have found most refractors are front heavy and in this situation you can put ankle weights at the focuser end to push the telescope further up in the rings.

Movement of the eyepiece reduces the further the telescope is pushed forward.

There are a lot of pre-made astronomy chairs available but as usual they are expensive.

If you do not mind making your own there is the LYBAR chair, Catsperch Chair or Denver Chair.

Plans for these are easily found online, the LYBAR is the easiest to make and the Catsperch/ Denver need a little bit of skill to build. 

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I got a couple of cheap plastic bar stools that rotate to change height, I keep one set higher and one set lower.  I find these sufficient for most things.  Another handy thing is a sturdy walking pole to rest your hands on, to push down into

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