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ZWO/Player One IMX 585 Sensor Image Showcase


Chris

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It looks as though these latest generation IMX585 sensors are able to do a pretty good job in all areas of astro imaging!

Please use this thread to showcase your IMX 585 images and see if we can give the pro cooled cameras a run for their money 😉

 

 

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Just enough gap in the clouds to grab 14 x 3 minute light frames at gain 150 with the ZWO ASI585mc, binned 1x1. I'm not really one for calibration frames but I shall dither next time out. 

StellaLyra 150mm f/4 Newtonian and Optolong L-eNhance filter (I need to work on my corner stars)   

Bubble Neb_DSS.png

Edited by Chris
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Wacky rusty rendition focused on a small region of NGC7000 North America nebula. 

Again only 42 minutes total integration time (14x3 minutes, ZWO ASI585mc, gain 150, 1x1 binning)

 

ngc7000_DSS4.png

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The player one camera using this sensor is:

https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/uranus-c-usb3-0-color-camera-imx585/

Lukomatico has a couple videos with this camera over on his YouTube:

https://youtube.com/c/lukomatico

Hope you don't mind me adding some links to some info on the player one stuff Chris 😊

Fantastic bubble nebula.  Gives a wonderful sense of sphericity.

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Yes these are arguably the most advanced CMOS sensor that Sony are currently making for the consumer market. Cooling is very much not required for DSO work with these. A sign of things to come. 

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34 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

The player one camera using this sensor is:

https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/uranus-c-usb3-0-color-camera-imx585/

Lukomatico has a couple videos with this camera over on his YouTube:

https://youtube.com/c/lukomatico

Hope you don't mind me adding some links to some info on the player one stuff Chris 😊

Fantastic bubble nebula.  Gives a wonderful sense of sphericity.

No probs at all :) the threads for any camera using the IMX 585 sensor so please share away. 

 If it wasn't named the bubble it would have to be named something like the sphere nebula, or maybe the crystal ball nebula, it really is round, cheers 😀

 

 

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My asi585mc just got delivered today coincidentally. I'll be using mine as a guide camera/planetary camera since I have a 533mc for dso stuff.

The skies are actually clear tonight so I kinda want to try imaging Saturn and Jupiter with my Skymax 150. I'm also interested in doing a mosaic of the moon using the same Skymax 150. Judging by what astronomytools shows it'll be at least three panels which will be ridiculously high res.

Edited by Jay6879
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I bought one of these ASI585 from FLO this week, tried last night on the Cygnus wall,  tbh I was a bit disappointed, maybe it was my settings I had in it through the asi air plus 🤷🏻‍♂️ or my processing skills in Photoshop
i shot 60 lights at 300 sec with 10 darks 50 flats and bias frames

the gain was set to 150 

8C1CB7D4-2BFF-45C7-BBF4-B4C51D486826.jpeg

Edited by Bignose13
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29 minutes ago, Bignose13 said:

I bought one of these ASI585 from FLO this week, tried last night on the Cygnus wall,  tbh I was a bit disappointed, maybe it was my settings I had in it through the asi air plus 🤷🏻‍♂️ or my processing skills in Photoshop
i shot 60 lights at 300 sec with 10 darks 50 flats and bias frames

the gain was set to 150 

8C1CB7D4-2BFF-45C7-BBF4-B4C51D486826.jpeg

Walking noise aside, its possible you have a better image there than is being shown. If you are willing to make the subs and calibration frames available I would like to have a run at it to see if I can get anything better out of it for you.

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28 minutes ago, geeks said:

Walking noise aside, its possible you have a better image there than is being shown. If you are willing to make the subs and calibration frames available I would like to have a run at it to see if I can get anything better out of it for you.

Yeah sure, not sure how though tbh 

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37 minutes ago, geeks said:

Google Drive? Drop Box? Onedrive? Or I can set one up where you can upload the files to if you like?

Hi Mate

I had to do Google as dropbox crapped out on me

Heres the link

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1c6Z0cXieu0C2Cpdxu4wUdph1QipYs8J3?usp=sharing

Thanks for this, appreciate it

Simon

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@Bignose13

A couple of things, first things first, you appear to either two sets of data there or you have drifted off target in your lights. Also you have quite a few that had to be excluded because the stars drifted in frame, also I would drop down from 5 minute subs to 3 minutes tops (you have massive star bloat) lastly your focus is ever so slightly out. Second, your darks have light leak bar darks 7,8,9,10 so I only used those. Your flats weren't right either, don't bother bias but use dark flats which are frames the same length and gain as flats but with the scope etc covered. 

That said I was able to get this out of it for you using 27 of your lights the four dark frames (flats in this instance weren't needed luckily). You can see there is a bit of cropping needed still. I ran a very quick process of them there is a little more you could pull out and play with the colours etc. I will upload the stacks etc for you to have a look at.

With stars:

image.thumb.png.ca5e284dc83e88528d2e028b5b72bd2a.png

Without:

image.thumb.png.50eee495a5693cd9eabcf8983f2b5dbc.png

Hope you like them!

Edited by geeks
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10 minutes ago, geeks said:

@Bignose13

A couple of things, first things first, you appear to either two sets of data there or you have drifted off target in your lights. Also you have quite a few that had to be excluded because the stars drifted in frame, also I would drop down from 5 minute subs to 3 minutes tops (you have massive star bloat) lastly your focus is ever so slightly out. Second, your darks have light leak bar darks 7,8,9,10 so I only used those. Your flats weren't right either, don't bother bias but use dark flats which are frames the same length and gain as flats but with the scope etc covered. 

That said I was able to get this out of it for you using 27 of your lights the four dark frames (flats in this instance weren't needed luckily). You can see there is a bit of cropping needed still. I ran a very quick process of them there is a little more you could pull out and play with the colours etc. I will upload the stacks etc for you to have a look at.

With stars:

image.thumb.png.ca5e284dc83e88528d2e028b5b72bd2a.png

Without:

image.thumb.png.50eee495a5693cd9eabcf8983f2b5dbc.png

Hope you like them!

Thats awesome mate, thnk you very much

Gonna use that as my wallpaper 

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14 minutes ago, geeks said:

You're welcome. I've uploaded the stacks etc for you and included a quick readme to cover which file is which plus the original pngs of the output I put on here for you.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqjp7A3ixBHurck112KKBTFAJyke1w?e=CjHpg1

Thanks

This is all a bit new to me tbh

Cant understand why the darks had light leak, I had the cover on the scope with a towel over it as well, 

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2 minutes ago, Bignose13 said:

Thanks

This is all a bit new to me tbh

Cant understand why the darks had light leak, I had the cover on the scope with a towel over it as well, 

No worries. The initial learning curve can be a bit steep but once you have the basics down you are good to go. Have a watch of some youtube guides to get your flats sorted properly for when you do need them, fortunately your field is quite flat and your optics clean so I was able to run without them for you. In terms of your darks, no idea what would cause it but here is a comparison for you, top one is Dark 1, Bottom is Dark 8. You can clearly see the light leak top right. Even in Dark 8 you can see it there unless that is amp glow maybe. Also you need to make sure darks are shot at or as close to as you can get the same temperature as your lights. Light leak usually comes from focusers so make sure everything is covered and that you are in a darkened space when doing them, good news is they can be reused once you have a series of master darks at various temps etc.

 

What scope are you using? Do you have a bahtinov mask? This will allow you to get your focus just right and then you can lock the focuser off to stop it moving during imaging.

image.thumb.png.8d94878ea0922e899bab8598838ded12.png

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3 hours ago, Bignose13 said:

I bought one of these ASI585 from FLO this week, tried last night on the Cygnus wall,  tbh I was a bit disappointed, maybe it was my settings I had in it through the asi air plus 🤷🏻‍♂️ or my processing skills in Photoshop
i shot 60 lights at 300 sec with 10 darks 50 flats and bias frames

the gain was set to 150 

8C1CB7D4-2BFF-45C7-BBF4-B4C51D486826.jpeg

Well for a start I think you missed the wall by a frame width. Also 60s exposures are the way to go with an uncooled camera. 5min exposures are way too long. Depending on f-ratio and light polution even 30s may be best. Also gain 300. 

Edited by Adam J
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3 minutes ago, geeks said:

No worries. The initial learning curve can be a bit steep but once you have the basics down you are good to go. Have a watch of some youtube guides to get your flats sorted properly for when you do need them, fortunately your field is quite flat and your optics clean so I was able to run without them for you. In terms of your darks, no idea what would cause it but here is a comparison for you, top one is Dark 1, Bottom is Dark 8. You can clearly see the light leak top right. Even in Dark 8 you can see it there unless that is amp glow maybe. Also you need to make sure darks are shot at or as close to as you can get the same temperature as your lights. Light leak usually comes from focusers so make sure everything is covered and that you are in a darkened space when doing them, good news is they can be reused once you have a series of master darks at various temps etc.

 

What scope are you using? Do you have a bahtinov mask? This will allow you to get your focus just right and then you can lock the focuser off to stop it moving during imaging.

image.thumb.png.8d94878ea0922e899bab8598838ded12.png

Scope is a SW72ED plus using a mask to focus, this was the first time I used the camera as I usually use a 600D astro modded and found fousing a bit of a pain compared to live view of the Cannon, I did rush a bit, 

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2 minutes ago, Bignose13 said:

Scope is a SW72ED plus using a mask to focus, this was the first time I used the camera as I usually use a 600D astro modded and found fousing a bit of a pain compared to live view of the Cannon, I did rush a bit, 

At f6 I would shoot 60second subs at 300gain. 

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