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geeks

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  1. Yeah you are fighting an uphill battle especially without a filter to help boost the contrast. See my efforts below. Very tricky to be honest. StarNet output Stars in one way Stars back in another way.
  2. I used to use PHD with astroberry for this exact reason, my T7C (ASI120 clone) never seemed to work with EKOS. I can't remember what I needed to change exactly to get the guidecam to work in EKOS I will have a look later, one thing I do know if I connect it to a USB 3 port (the blue ones for those of a less techie disposition) EKOS wont take an image even though it connects, it has to be on a USB 2 port (the black ones).
  3. I dunno, I think there are a few of us who could make a good argument for the AZ GTI I think when it comes to the AZGTI vs the SAGTI I think its worth remembering that the SAGTI just works for this out of the box, alot of people will be put off by the thought of having to update the firmware, mess around getting a wedge etc etc. I can see the appeal of the SAGTI and I will probably add one to my collection when the initial rush calms down/a good second hand deal comes up. I also have an EQ6 and other heavier scopes, when you want that higher resolution or more focal length etc then they really do come into their own. I bought my GTI primarily for the ability to take it with me when we go on holiday or star parties I think a lot of people fall into this bracket.
  4. I don't miss the heat of being out there, like walking into a fan oven when leaving the hotel/compound
  5. Mine will drop to -10 no problem at all in these temps (Altair 533Protech) Having done some reading it seems pretty pointless cooling most sensors past -10c
  6. Yeah take your time, a few extra minutes focussing can save you much pain. I would definitely drop the sub length down from 5 minutes. I would suggest playing with anything between 1 and 3 minutes. Not sure I would raise the gain past what is considered unity gain for that camera, you'll just bring in more noise to remove at this stage. Especially as you aren't dithering yet.
  7. No worries. The initial learning curve can be a bit steep but once you have the basics down you are good to go. Have a watch of some youtube guides to get your flats sorted properly for when you do need them, fortunately your field is quite flat and your optics clean so I was able to run without them for you. In terms of your darks, no idea what would cause it but here is a comparison for you, top one is Dark 1, Bottom is Dark 8. You can clearly see the light leak top right. Even in Dark 8 you can see it there unless that is amp glow maybe. Also you need to make sure darks are shot at or as close to as you can get the same temperature as your lights. Light leak usually comes from focusers so make sure everything is covered and that you are in a darkened space when doing them, good news is they can be reused once you have a series of master darks at various temps etc. What scope are you using? Do you have a bahtinov mask? This will allow you to get your focus just right and then you can lock the focuser off to stop it moving during imaging.
  8. You're welcome. I've uploaded the stacks etc for you and included a quick readme to cover which file is which plus the original pngs of the output I put on here for you. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqjp7A3ixBHurck112KKBTFAJyke1w?e=CjHpg1
  9. @Bignose13 A couple of things, first things first, you appear to either two sets of data there or you have drifted off target in your lights. Also you have quite a few that had to be excluded because the stars drifted in frame, also I would drop down from 5 minute subs to 3 minutes tops (you have massive star bloat) lastly your focus is ever so slightly out. Second, your darks have light leak bar darks 7,8,9,10 so I only used those. Your flats weren't right either, don't bother bias but use dark flats which are frames the same length and gain as flats but with the scope etc covered. That said I was able to get this out of it for you using 27 of your lights the four dark frames (flats in this instance weren't needed luckily). You can see there is a bit of cropping needed still. I ran a very quick process of them there is a little more you could pull out and play with the colours etc. I will upload the stacks etc for you to have a look at. With stars: Without: Hope you like them!
  10. Google Drive? Drop Box? Onedrive? Or I can set one up where you can upload the files to if you like?
  11. Walking noise aside, its possible you have a better image there than is being shown. If you are willing to make the subs and calibration frames available I would like to have a run at it to see if I can get anything better out of it for you.
  12. Thanks I am very pleased with how it came out especially given the limitations of the setup. I am currently stripping out the HA/Oii from it so I can do a "Hubble pallet" version of it too. Good luck with your run I hope it turns out well
  13. Added to my Soul Nebula last night and I think I am ready to call this one done. SH2199 - The Soul Nebula 91 x 3 mins, Altair Astro 60 EDF with 0.8 Reducer, Altair Astro Triband Filter, Altair Astro 533mc Protech
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