NEQ6 Mount rocking - is this normal?

[lukebl]

Hi folks,

I've had my NEQ6 for a few years, and I've had the Rowan Belt modification done.

I can't say I've noticed this before, but the mount rocks noticeably back and forth in RA as this animation shows. Is this amount of play normal and can it be fixed?

I'm not sure why I haven't noticed it before, but it could account for the vagaries of my guilding although I do ensure that the mount is balanced heavy on one side to compensate for backlash. However, I would assume that the Rowan Belt should reduce backlash?

Edited May 4, 2020 by lukebl

[newbie alert]

Id guess at

Worm mesh, or lateral play on the worm spindle

[Stuart1971]

Yes you need to check the worm locking ring under the black cap on the R.A., they do have a habit of working loose...a blob of super glue will help when tightened,  if it is this don’t overtighten, just enough to remove the lateral play...take off the black cap and rock it you will see the play...I think it’s the cap on the control board side, not the other... 👍

Edited May 4, 2020 by Stuart1971

[Stuart1971]

There is a special tool for tightening this, but circlip or long thin nosed pliers will also work... 👍

if you Have had the belt mod done, then it will almost certainly be  this. As once undone for the mod, it will always work loose after, unless it’s locked down somehow, like I say a blob of glue on the outside of the lock ring into the threads will sort it..

[alacant]

17 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

Worm mesh, or lateral play

 

2 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

the worm locking ring

+1

So, remove the RA worm covers and look the axle whilst you rock the telescope. If there's play, take up the endfloat by tightening the slotted nut.

Or, if that's OK, slacken the 4 RA worm housing hex head nuts (in your video, the underside) then adjust the worm mesh using a 2mm hex key say 1/8 turn anticlockwise on the south adjuster and the same clockwise, north.

After a few iterations you shpould be left with just a tiny bit of play.

HTH

[Stuart1971]

2 minutes ago, alacant said:

 

+1

So, remove the RA worm covers and look the axle whilst you rock the telescope. If there's play, take up the endfloat by tightening the slotted nut.

Or, if that's OK, slacken the 4 RA worm housing hex head nuts (in your video, the underside) then adjust the worm mesh using a 2mm hex key say 1/8 turn anticlockwise on the south adjuster and the same clockwise, north.

After a few iterations you shpould be left with just a tiny bit of play.

HTH

I don’t think that play is from backlash so I really dont think loosening those 4 nuts is a good idea, as it’s a pain to set that, especially in the warmer weather, it really need to be set in The colder weather, or you will get binding 

I just dont think that the backlash would have altered that much to cause that, unless it’s always been like it since your mod, and so was not adjusted properly then...

[lukebl]

Thanks folks. I've done both things - checked the worm locking ring AND adjusted the worm mesh - and it's still rocking. In fact, something I've done has made it worse. The worm adjusting bolts are incredibly tight and have burred over a couple of my allen keys. Damn annoying!

[Skipper Billy]

45 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

.a blob of super glue will help

DO NOT use superglue!!!!  Use low strength threadlock like Loctite 222. You will be glad when you come to adjust it or strip it down 😉 

Dont overtighten them - they aren't supposed to be tight - just snug.

 

[Skipper Billy]

You might find this useful

http://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6 rebuild guide/EQ6 Strip Down Home.htm

[Stuart1971]

5 minutes ago, lukebl said:

Thanks folks. I've done both things - checked the worm locking ring AND adjusted the worm mesh - and it's still rocking. In fact, something I've done has made it worse. The worm adjusting bolts are incredibly tight and have burred over a couple of my allen keys. Damn annoying!

Well in That case it could be the worm shaft bearings, as they are quite delicate hence not to overtighten the locking ring.. or a clutch issue..

[Stuart1971]

1 minute ago, Skipper Billy said:

You might find this useful

http://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6 rebuild guide/EQ6 Strip Down Home.htm

That is very dated now and some things are incorrect...like in there it tells you so lock the locking ring as tight as it will go until it causes binding, then back off slightly, well by that time you could have damaged the bearings, so I would not use that...there is other incorrect advice in there  too....just my opinion...  😉

[Skipper Billy]

7 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

That is very dated now and some things are incorrect...like in there it tells you so lock the locking ring as tight as it will go until it causes binding, then back off slightly, well by that time you could have damaged the bearings, so I would not use that...there is other incorrect advice in there  too....just my opinion...  😉

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

[Adam J]

25 minutes ago, lukebl said:

Thanks folks. I've done both things - checked the worm locking ring AND adjusted the worm mesh - and it's still rocking. In fact, something I've done has made it worse. The worm adjusting bolts are incredibly tight and have burred over a couple of my allen keys. Damn annoying!

Stop, nothing on that mount needs to be so tight as to be rounding off your Allen keys! You will strip something. 

Edited May 4, 2020 by Adam J

[alacant]

25 minutes ago, lukebl said:

The worm adjusting bolts are incredibly tight

Make sure that the worm housing isn't stuck. There's quite often paint or old grease inbetween holding the mating sufaces. After you've loosned the 4 bolts, give it a sharp tap to make sure it can move. The small worm adjusters should then move freely. Always begin anticlockwise and never make any adjustment until you are certain that the housing is loose.

cheers

Edited May 4, 2020 by alacant

[lukebl]

35 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Stop, nothing on that mount needs to be so tight as to be rounding off your Allen keys! You will strip something. 

Ok I've stopped!

Here's a video of the rattling. I've definitely made it worse, but not sure which action did it. Loosening and tightening the worm mesh nuts doesn't seem to make any difference at all. Fortunately I have another old (non-Rowan) NEQ6 I can use.

 

[Stuart1971]

3 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

I have, read my post again.... 🤔

[Stuart1971]

2 hours ago, lukebl said:

Ok I've stopped!

Here's a video of the rattling. I've definitely made it worse, but not sure which action did it. Loosening and tightening the worm mesh nuts doesn't seem to make any difference at all. Fortunately I have another old (non-Rowan) NEQ6 I can use.

 

I think it is more likely to be the mesh adjustment. If you have made it worse, as tightening the worm locking nut would not do that, so you will need to strip down the R.A. housing and find the issue,  it sounds like getting the engagement sorted...maybe order some new bolts and grub screws for the job too... 👍😀

[Stuart1971]

3 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

I have just pointed out the errors in the EQ6 astro baby strip down, based on the job the OP needs to do, there was no point in telling them that the CW locking nut does not need to be tightened as per the guide, (again as tight as possible with half a turn back) as that would have been pointless... 👍

[Skipper Billy]

23 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

4 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

It would be more helpful for the OP if you said what advice you believe is incorrect. 

I have just pointed out the errors in the EQ6 astro baby strip down, based on the job the OP needs to do, there was no point in telling them that the CW locking nut does not need to be tightened as per the guide, (again as tight as possible with half a turn back) as that would have been pointless... 👍

Your statement implied that there was other information than the bit about the CW locking nut that are incorrect. We would all benefit from knowing what the errors are. I am not picking a fight I just want to be clear about what is erroneous as many people rely on that guide as the 'bible' for stripping and fixing that particular mount.

[Stuart1971]

19 minutes ago, Skipper Billy said:

Your statement implied that there was other information than the bit about the CW locking nut that are incorrect. We would all benefit from knowing what the errors are. I am not picking a fight I just want to be clear about what is erroneous as many people rely on that guide as the 'bible' for stripping and fixing that particular mount.

There are many errors in there, and if you read my first post regarding this I said, IN MY OPINION,  and it’s just that, I have stripped and re built this mount a few times...and I first used this guide, and would never use again, as I found many errors and things that were just not correct....but it’s all in my opinion, and I am not going to slate the guide on here, it’s not the time or the place...it can be useful to a beginner, but there are quite a few techniques in there that need to be updated for one reason and another....

Edited May 4, 2020 by Stuart1971

[newbie alert]

5 hours ago, Skipper Billy said:

DO NOT use superglue!!!!  Use low strength threadlock like Loctite 222. You will be glad when you come to adjust it or strip it down 😉 

Dont overtighten them - they aren't supposed to be tight - just snug.

 

I thought that when I see superglue!

Small blob of locktight is all that's needed, blue or purple grade

[Stuart1971]

4 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

I thought that when I see superglue!

Small blob of locktight is all that's needed, blue or purple grade

Yes...I did try locktight, but it can get Into the bearing if you are not careful, it was not superglue I used (my bad) I used but a blob of hot glue, as it comes off in one lump and leaves no residue, and will hold the ring in place on the outside....with no possible issues for the bearing  

[alacant]

26 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

need to be updated

Hi

Maybe we could start a new thread with updates and tips for eq6 servicing? It could be e.g. that there have been changes to the mechanics since guides were written.

I must admit to having a dive-in-and-pull it-to-bits type of approach so very much works-for-me advice. 

Something more official and up to date would be great.

Cheers

[newbie alert]

1 minute ago, Stuart1971 said:

Yes...I did try locktight, but it can get Into the bearing if you are not careful, it was not superglue I used (my bad) I used but a blob of hot glue, as it comes off in one lump and leaves no residue, and will hold the ring in place on the outside....with no possible issues for the bearing  

Loctight is far better , if you use a very small blob and work it into the threads it not only holds it in place to stop it working or vibrating loose but stops rusting or deteriation over time, good as new ..tiny tiny blob.. hot melt will only cover the end and I'm not 100% sure that it holds well enough..

[Stuart1971]

13 minutes ago, newbie alert said:

Loctight is far better , if you use a very small blob and work it into the threads it not only holds it in place to stop it working or vibrating loose but stops rusting or deteriation over time, good as new ..tiny tiny blob.. hot melt will only cover the end and I'm not 100% sure that it holds well enough..

Do you know the actual locking nut we are discussing, and how thin the threads are...? Yes I agree on a normal bolt or grub screw....but on this occasion I have to respectfully disagree... 👍