Intervalometer

[Robindonne]

11 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

I think you just have to cautious with any electronic kit in bad weather, as for the pro models they are only weather proof if using a pro L lens. There are lots of ways to minimize the effects of rain etc with suitable covers or even a plastic bag.

Alan

Yes i believe you’re right.  Water is killing electronics. I read some topics ago something about a nano spray.  Maybe when removing the red eye filter i will use it. Just in case.  Thx 

[Robindonne]

5 hours ago, BlueStinger said:

I also watched the Nico Carver video you mention Robindonne and bought the exact one he used (just a coincedence as it was the cheapest and only one in stock I could find) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008A3PDMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Indeed very cheep. If the used set doesn’t include a remote i will def buy one. Thx

[Shimrod]

8 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Yes.  I saw the 5d and maybe more models are housed in metal cases.  Dont really know if its better in protecting against dog and also against dew forming.  I believe sealing of inputs and buttons etc is more important. Actually think metal will cause more dew inside than plastic but i can be wrong.  Im going for the 60d and maybe 70 or 80 or perhaps 90 but i dont think they will pop up in used condition under €600,-   Thx for all the helpful info

I have had a Canon 60d and 70d both destroyed through ingress of salt water - the 70d was even in a rain jacket but it only takes the tiniest droplet of salt water to destroy electronics. I've also had a 7dmk2 stop working when caught in a heavy rainstorm, although that recovered after a drying out, so even better weatherproofing still has limited benefit. I would not worry about using any of the camera range for astronomy - if its too wet for the camera, it is going to be too wet for the telescope and all the other electronics. The advantage of the semi-pro and pro ranges (single digit cameras) is generally better features (dual memory cards, larger image buffer, faster shutter speeds, custom functions, more focus points), more resistant to impact and longer shutter life. Most of the better features will be of little use for astronomy but may be attractive if you are also buying this as a general purpose camera.

Here is the UK you can buy a used 70d for under £400 from a dealer with 12 month warranty. This has a better sensor than the 60d and also has built in wifi which may be an advantage for image transfer, and is one less cable attached to the back of the scope.

[Robindonne]

3 hours ago, Shimrod said:

I have had a Canon 60d and 70d both destroyed through ingress of salt water - the 70d was even in a rain jacket but it only takes the tiniest droplet of salt water to destroy electronics. I've also had a 7dmk2 stop working when caught in a heavy rainstorm, although that recovered after a drying out, so even better weatherproofing still has limited benefit. I would not worry about using any of the camera range for astronomy - if its too wet for the camera, it is going to be too wet for the telescope and all the other electronics. The advantage of the semi-pro and pro ranges (single digit cameras) is generally better features (dual memory cards, larger image buffer, faster shutter speeds, custom functions, more focus points), more resistant to impact and longer shutter life. Most of the better features will be of little use for astronomy but may be attractive if you are also buying this as a general purpose camera.

Here is the UK you can buy a used 70d for under £400 from a dealer with 12 month warranty. This has a better sensor than the 60d and also has built in wifi which may be an advantage for image transfer, and is one less cable attached to the back of the scope.

Correct yes.  When raining its probably over with stargazing anyway.  But you probably suffered these damaged cameras while doing normal photography i guess?  I was actually almost sure to buy one of the 60/70/80 models.  But when starting some conversations with some sellers 5 minutes ago i started to doubt if the extra weight is really going to be problematic, especially when im sure about one thing and thats going for the stronger mount.  Am i not to worried about al sort of non existing problems?  Pffff what a mess🤪.  All because some months ago reading that a used 1000d is a bargain for astrophotography.  Probably end up with buying a 1d and pouring concrete for the observatory.  The first seller who responds to my bids is the one who decides what camera im going to use😬

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[Shimrod]

40 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Correct yes.  When raining its probably over with stargazing anyway.  But you probably suffered these damaged cameras while doing normal photography i guess?  I was actually almost sure to buy one of the 60/70/80 models.  But when starting some conversations with some sellers 5 minutes ago i started to doubt if the extra weight is really going to be problematic, especially when im sure about one thing and thats going for the stronger mount. 

Cameras were damaged whale watching! If you want answers to the questions on camera weight and balancing you will need to share details of your telescope and mount - I can't see that you have mentioned either of those.

[Robindonne]

11 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

Cameras were damaged whale watching! If you want answers to the questions on camera weight and balancing you will need to share details of your telescope and mount - I can't see that you have mentioned either of those.

No sorry.  Didnt mentioned it in this thread.  For now its probably going to be used on an c8 on an eq5 unguided.  But also want to experience ap with an 8” newton or some small apos.  Have the 8” newton attached to a heq5 older white model i think. That stands in a side-room??  But when all goes well with ap with a dslr than dslr is going to be my camera for the future at least If no dedicated camera will be substantially better. And therefore rather invest in the stronger mount and probably a final apo some day.  So in short.  Planning for a setup based on 8” sct on a eq6 mount controlled with asiair v1. And the asiair lets me choose between canon and nikon.  

[The Admiral]

52 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

For now its probably going to be used on an c8 on an eq5 unguided.

Are you going to get away with exposures of greater than 30s with that set up?

Ian

[Shimrod]

1 hour ago, Robindonne said:

No sorry.  Didnt mentioned it in this thread.  For now its probably going to be used on an c8 on an eq5 unguided.  But also want to experience ap with an 8” newton or some small apos.  Have the 8” newton attached to a heq5 older white model i think. That stands in a side-room??  But when all goes well with ap with a dslr than dslr is going to be my camera for the future at least If no dedicated camera will be substantially better. And therefore rather invest in the stronger mount and probably a final apo some day.  So in short.  Planning for a setup based on 8” sct on a eq6 mount controlled with asiair v1. And the asiair lets me choose between canon and nikon.  

I think you might want to change your approach to choosing your equipment. I am quite new at AP, although I have been in and out of astronomy over a number of years. There are plenty of people on here who will tell you that starting AP on an 8" SCT is a very steep learning curve (and as the owner of an 8" EdgeHD I am not going to argue! -  I have also bought 80mm refractor which I am finding much easier to image with). I am also using a Canon DLSR as I own one at the moment - if you are solely getting the camera for AP purposes, you would be better getting a dedicated camera from day one - the only exception I can think is if you cannot connect a camera to a laptop while using your scope. You also need to think about what you want to image - the 80mm gives a lot more flexibility for DSO than the 8" EdgeHD.

[Robindonne]

1 hour ago, The Admiral said:

Are you going to get away with exposures of greater than 30s with that set up?

Ian

Probably not.  But like buying a stationwagon when you expect children, i dont want to get experience in a camera when in 2 months have to replace it again. You are right I probably wont reach the long exposures with this setup.  

[haitch]

For anyone still in any doubt on the ML front, my 600D set for intervalometer timing of 3 minutes 10 secs with an exposure length of 3 minutes...

 

[Robindonne]

50 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

I think you might want to change your approach to choosing your equipment. I am quite new at AP, although I have been in and out of astronomy over a number of years. There are plenty of people on here who will tell you that starting AP on an 8" SCT is a very steep learning curve (and as the owner of an 8" EdgeHD I am not going to argue! -  I have also bought 80mm refractor which I am finding much easier to image with). I am also using a Canon DLSR as I own one at the moment - if you are solely getting the camera for AP purposes, you would be better getting a dedicated camera from day one - the only exception I can think is if you cannot connect a camera to a laptop while using your scope. You also need to think about what you want to image - the 80mm gives a lot more flexibility for DSO than the 8" EdgeHD.

Yes thats def good advice.  Although, while not yet knowing how the bottom of that steep learningcurve diffrence from a slight curve when starting with a small apo.  I really like to do both.  Maybe stubborn thinking and a very common made mistake. But what if i really like to do ap with a newtonian in the end? I want to try all options i have available.  And in the back of my mind is also a dedicated camera. Maybe wrong thinking but planning a zwo as guider for the bigger ones.  And probably unguided on smaller apo’s.  I have to guess a lot because the lack of experience.  And what is would like to image is probably dso.

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[Robindonne]

I really love good quality gear over the quantity of lots of inbetweens and ending up trying to sell the inbetween gear.  But i have to learn and make decisions based on others experiences.   A good dslr with almost all the needed functions cant be a bad choice i think.  Especially when the red-eye filter is removed.  
 

omg the cooling part will pop up🤪

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[Robindonne]

19 minutes ago, haitch said:

For anyone still in any doubt on the ML front, my 600D set for intervalometer timing of 3 minutes 10 secs with an exposure length of 3 minutes...

 

Oh great indeed.  So this way you have a 10 second pause between the images? And are you free to choose the length? Although the asiair will control my future dslr, for the un-asiaired moments this is also very good. So you dont need the seperate remote shutter control? Are you able to set the amount of images?

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[haitch]

7 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

Oh great indeed.  So this way you have a 10 second pause between the images? And are you free to choose the length? Although the asiair will control my future dslr, for the un-asiaired moments this is also very good. So you dont need the seperate remote shutter control? Are you able to set the amount of images?

That's it - you can choose the exposure length and the interval to the second.

Yes - you can set number of images or let irt run indefinitely (so long as you have the power to keep going. You can also have a delay before first shot and start the sequence when you leave menu or on half shutter press or full shutter.

[haitch]

57 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

I think you might want to change your approach to choosing your equipment. I am quite new at AP, although I have been in and out of astronomy over a number of years. There are plenty of people on here who will tell you that starting AP on an 8" SCT is a very steep learning curve (and as the owner of an 8" EdgeHD I am not going to argue! -  I have also bought 80mm refractor which I am finding much easier to image with). I am also using a Canon DLSR as I own one at the moment - if you are solely getting the camera for AP purposes, you would be better getting a dedicated camera from day one - the only exception I can think is if you cannot connect a camera to a laptop while using your scope. You also need to think about what you want to image - the 80mm gives a lot more flexibility for DSO than the 8" EdgeHD.

Yeah just noticed the gear - 2m f/l (or even with a reducer) on a fully loaded Eq5 is more than pushing it unless you go down the hyperstar route.

[Robindonne]

Ok so Ml is going to do the intervals.  So when i make up a list of preferences in a dslr i have covered them with a 60d, the weatherproof, the flip screen, the option for setting intervals with ML installed on the memorycard, an asiair compatible model.... thats all i needed...i guess.

 What just arrived in my problemlist is maybe the cooling?  

I havent bought one yet so im able to make a last switch to solve the cooling issue.  But im not sure if it will help.  If i switch to full frame and suffer from (amp) glow, what i read is the edges are turning lighter, will cropping after stacking help?  So start bigger and end the size of a cropped version, removing much of the glow area?  Or does this question needs a new thread?

[Robindonne]

10 minutes ago, haitch said:

Yeah just noticed the gear - 2m f/l (or even with a reducer) on a fully loaded Eq5 is more than pushing it unless you go down the hyperstar route.

Well the eq5 is history in July, and the camera ( i hope) not.  I have to anticipate a bit otherwise restart questioning in some months😬

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[The Admiral]

I'm sorry but I can't help thinking that you are over thinking the issue of long exposures on a DSLR. It strikes me that you will have more pressing issues to work through, not least the issue of selecting a suitable mount and guiding. Also, if you are keen to avoid wasting your efforts by trying to get the kit you need first off, rather than by building up as you gain experience, then perhaps you ought to be considering a full-frame cooled mono camera, LRGB filters, and a mount in the Mesu or 10Micro league. Sorry, I don't mean to be disparaging, but I think you will likely end up disappointed.

Ian

[Robindonne]

32 minutes ago, The Admiral said:

I'm sorry but I can't help thinking that you are over thinking the issue of long exposures on a DSLR. It strikes me that you will have more pressing issues to work through, not least the issue of selecting a suitable mount and guiding. Also, if you are keen to avoid wasting your efforts by trying to get the kit you need first off, rather than by building up as you gain experience, then perhaps you ought to be considering a full-frame cooled mono camera, LRGB filters, and a mount in the Mesu or 10Micro league. Sorry, I don't mean to be disparaging, but I think you will likely end up disappointed.

Ian

You are definitely right.  Just like many other members’ advices given.  Probably end up still learning in 2022.  I just dont want these multiple inbetween purchases.  1 or 2 steps maybe.  The setup you mentioned sounds so great.  Mono cooled astrophotography, on an eq6r with an 132 flt must be heaven for us all.   I hope im just one big step away😉

 

ps whats that story of a new meteorite?

Edited May 1, 2020 by Robindonne

[Shimrod]

3 hours ago, Robindonne said:

You are definitely right.  Just like many other members’ advices given.  Probably end up still learning in 2022.  I just dont want these multiple inbetween purchases.  1 or 2 steps maybe.  The setup you mentioned sounds so great.  Mono cooled astrophotography, on an eq6r with an 132 flt must be heaven for us all.   I hope im just one big step away😉

 

ps whats that story of a new meteorite?

I think you need to take a step back from all of this, and consider what you are hoping to achieve with the purchase of camera, mount and telescope. Ask that question of the forum, say what your budget is and then see what the responses are. I doubt you will purchase your 'forever' kit on the first go, but the people on this forum can help you avoid some of the more obvious mistakes and suggest a path that does not involve repurchasing everything as you move through this hobby.

[Robindonne]

9 hours ago, Shimrod said:

doubt you will purchase your 'forever' kit on the first go

I understand.  My budget for this problem is 0-600,- prefer to end in the middle. But at this moment i miss a workable camera.  And therefore decided to go search for a dslr. Im sure buying a dedicated maincamera will happen when my budget for this will reach 1500,-.  First the bigger mount. And for choosing a dslr i Was wondering if build in intervelometer would be necessary for the un-asiaired sessions.  I learned not. For this problem the ML option is the best advive in my opinion.  And advice about current setup is helpful but not really what i needed to find out in this thread.  I really dont know what im talking about but i know i want to Hobby laptop-free, buy a small dedicated camera for guiding with an oag and for maybe some occasional shooting with small refractors, so for the moment The 60d-80d is what i prefer to use as maincamera.  And of course choosing for a dslr i based on not having any camera at this moment and on multiple reviews and experiences from others.   
 

i do have one additional question i cant really google a good answer for.  If imaging with a full-frame sensor gives a wider view, and probably i will walk in to the glow problem when (in July after mount upgrade) starting to do longer exposures, will someone benefit from cropping the image and maybe lose some of the ruined outerparts of an image? The leftovers of the glow are probably easier to fix then a fully effected image?

Edited May 2, 2020 by Robindonne

[haitch]

It may have already been picked up but you are using a DSLR use an external battery, such as a dummy battery that will run off a usb power pack, to take one source of heat noise out of the camera.

[iapa]

How about BackyardEOS or BackYardNikon from https://www.otelescope.com

You can set exposure, number of images, has real time view so can help with focus if you start with just a lens instead of going straight to an OTA.

As others point out - what are you wanting to image at night?

 

[Robindonne]

3 hours ago, haitch said:

It may have already been picked up but you are using a DSLR use an external battery, such as a dummy battery that will run off a usb power pack, to take one source of heat noise out of the camera.

Yes thx.  It passed in some review.  Some advising to not go that way because of more heat?? Didnt find any proof it causes heat more than a battery, the opposite seems true. And less weight. But on the other hand more cables😬.  But def going to try one

[Robindonne]

2 hours ago, iapa said:

How about BackyardEOS or BackYardNikon from https://www.otelescope.com

You can set exposure, number of images, has real time view so can help with focus if you start with just a lens instead of going straight to an OTA.

As others point out - what are you wanting to image at night?

 

Oh backyardnikon is new for me also.  Just as backyardeos. 
 

Well visual is very nice of course but gives me less attraction for the long term i think.   Im not yet in a position to tell you what i want to image but leaning to all related to nebulae/galaxies.  All the beautiful that cant be seen without the use of a camera