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I doubt it very much Kev. It would not be accurate enough on it's own to keep the target object steady for imaging.

Unless you have some means of guiding, ie, a seperate guidescope with a reticule, and a means to speed up, or slow down the drive motor, you will have a difficult time doing exposures of reasonable duration.

Of course, if the said motor is a stepper motor, they are controllable to a degree of accuracy, but you will still need a seperate guide system.

Ron.

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I'm not an imager but I think it might be ok for planetary and lunar imaging - I've managed some basic stuff with undriven alt-azimuth mounts so I'm sure an equatorial driven even on just one axis would be an improvement on that !.

You would need to ensure that your mount was polar aligned as carefully as possible.

For long exposure, deep sky imaging I'm sure you would need the sort of setup that Ron is referring to.

John

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I've used an EQ3 with single axis (RA drive) and managed prime focus shots of between 20 and 30 seconds.

It will be a good start to imaging... but you'll need to be realistic to how high you can go with that.

You'll get some nice results though, but you'll not be able to go over the 30 second limit without some luck in polar alignment - even then I wouldn't expect to get anything over 40 maybe 45 seconds before trailing shows...

Ant

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Kev, I've no tried imaging with any form of eq mount, but I'm getting results with my AltAz mount. I'd suggest, as long as the costs aren't prohibitive, then go for it and see how you get on. At 15 to 30 seconds there's a lot of targets you can image, at 45 seconds I was able to get the bubble nebula, ok I took a huge number of frames.

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Of course you can do it Kevin! There's no point in having the dec driven except for fine tuning position independently of the slo mo controls or if you are doing guided imaging. If you can motorise your RA you are up and running for deep sky imaging. You will be plonking yourself right at the bottom of the learning curve which is a great place to be. I still remember the thrill of my first DSOs.

Try to get a good polar alignment - doing this by eye isn't really good enough. A polar scope helps but drift aligning is best. It takes a bit of practice but is pretty quick once you get the hang of it.

Avoid long focal length scopes since they amplify tracking errors. A short focal length refractor is ideal.

Expose for as long before the stars start to trail too badly. Slighly oval stars are ok. The longer the exposure the less noise you will have in your images. With a reasonalbe polar alignment 60 secs should be ok. You will find that sometimes you get more trailing than others because of where the mount is on its PE curve.

Here is a link to some of my early unguided images using a very simple ATik 2HS - a modded web cam.

http://www.astropixels.co.uk/Atik_images.htm#Atik_images

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Thanks. all i want to do is have ago at imaging as cheap as possible, cos im ill most of the time and when im ok get out with the scope and camera and have a play ,i could go out and get all the gear and only use it about 10 times................kev

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Kev, I think you should give it a try despite the limitations. If you concentrate on the brighter objects (you mention M42 which is a good choice as is the beautiful open cluster M45) to allow shorter exposures you will achieve some reasonable results but I would agree that your exposures will be limited to a maximum of 30 - 45 seconds although you could certainly try longer, say up to a minute and just discard the images that show star trailing.

For reference, the enclosed image of M45 was taken with an EQ3 mount and single RA motor, a DSLR and an 80mm achromat. I took 2 exposures of 70 seconds each and combined them in Registax. As you can see, the stars have just started to trail but if I had taken lots more subframes, I believe that this would have made a very nice image. The EQ3 is a little more substantial than the EQ2 but the motor-drive is no better!

Give it a try!

post-13675-133877349986_thumb.jpg

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Kev,

Which scope are you palnning to image through... As Steve has hinted youd be much better off with a Short focal length refratcor or even usign the camera with a lens piggy backed to started and move on as you start seeing results... Some nice tracked widefield images would be a great confidence booster :hello2:

Billy....

P.s. Dont watch me because I just fly by the seat of my pants haven't got a clue what i'm doing really just let the technology take care of things.... Haven't even considered drift alignment...

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A 1000mm focal length won't help your cause much I'm afraid as it is relatively long but back to bright objects, short exposures and lots of them! I am assuming that you have a DSLR so don't forget that you can take great wide field images with a camera lens and these wider field of views will allow longer exposures - lots to try once you have a motordrive!

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Kev, I apologise mate. My post was based on my attempts at imaging from many years ago.

It probably put you off a bit, but of course todays software aids and digital cameras do make it possible to capture images by combining multiple short exposures, and building a good result.

I should have put more thought into my first answer.

Good luck with your imaging. :thumbright:

Ron.

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