QHY10 with Purple Frame...

[Wayne76]

Hi

Currenty I am using C11 with HyperStar system,
The photo is one of the test shot I got,

1) I got puple frame, is this some kind of manfacture issue, or is there some setting I need to change

2) I have also draw in the pic, there is a black line running across the star,
    Every time when a bright star come out, the line is there, is that due to the way I lay my wire in front of the   telescope lens or...

My gain setting is at 0, offset is at 130

Thank you
Wayne

[Adam J]

If it was a CMOS I would say amp glow. But its a CCD....

not sure about zero gain, lots of people using something more like 15, whats the exposure length, I assume this is a single sub?

Does this purple effect appear in your darks???? If not why is it not being subtracted? Light leakage is also a possibility. 

[MarsG76]

Also looks to me like amp glow, quite bad amp glow and the line, it it shows up with every bright star, it might be a sensor issue.. if your cam is under warranty get it repaired or, preferably, replaced.

 

[Adam J]

3 hours ago, MarsG76 said:

Also looks to me like amp glow, quite bad amp glow and the line, it it shows up with every bright star, it might be a sensor issue.. if your cam is under warranty get it repaired or, preferably, replaced.

 

Yes I would go with that, I do now seem to remember a thread about some guy with a QHY10 that had to alter some variable resistor on the camera to change the voltage to the sensor that fixed this. Ill look for the thread.

[Adam J]

http://qhyccd.com/bbs/index.php?topic=4967.30

this probably wont help but it looks like you are not alone.

[Wayne76]

21 hours ago, Adam J said:

If it was a CMOS I would say amp glow. But its a CCD....

not sure about zero gain, lots of people using something more like 15, whats the exposure length, I assume this is a single sub?

Does this purple effect appear in your darks???? If not why is it not being subtracted? Light leakage is also a possibility. 

I haven't try to do the darks yet, this is the first time I use the QHY10 to do test shot, and the purple effec come out...

This is the 5s exposure, with oversan X256

I sincerely hope it is not a light leaakage, becuase I just 3 week ago, I just brought Nightscape 9300 with manfacture fault, just got the refund yesterday..........

[Wayne76]

I haven't try to do the darks yet, this is the first time I use the QHY10 to do test shot, and the purple effec come out...

This is the 5s exposure, with oversan X256

I sincerely hope it is not a light leaakage, becuase 3 week ago, I just brought Nightscape 9300 with manfacture fault, just got the refund yesterday..........

[Wayne76]

However, since I am using the Hyperstar system, the camera is actuall in front of the telescope lense,

There is a little green light at back of the camera, it keep go on and off, if you look at the pic I post, it is only showing at one side of fram only,

I will try to put a black sticky tape on, to over it........ hope it work

but I still don't know how to resolve the line issue....

[Adam J]

Irrespective of the amp glow you should not be getting the lines under the stars. As far as I know that is a voltage issue internal to the camera, unless you are below the supplied voltage specification. 

Its worth sending an image to QHY and getting advice. Possibly also posting on their forum they should respond. 

[Thalestris24]

Hi

I think the black lines (blooming) are a sensor problem which can appear on bright stars. I get it with my Canon 1100d. The qhy manual says (p18)

"About controlling for BLOOMING
QHY10/12 CCD chip have the -100dB aintioverflow
foundation. Anti-overflow capacity is
slightly lower than QHY8PRO of-110dB. So there is
possible to overflow for shooting very bright target
For the overflow problem of SONY CCD chip,
please install mechanical shutter to solve. If
mechanical shutter is indeed necessary, please
consult QHYCCD or your area dealer."

Hope that helps

Louise

[Wayne76]

20 hours ago, Adam J said:

Irrespective of the amp glow you should not be getting the lines under the stars. As far as I know that is a voltage issue internal to the camera, unless you are below the supplied voltage specification. 

Its worth sending an image to QHY and getting advice. Possibly also posting on their forum they should respond. 

Thank you, Adam, I will check with QHY company, will let you guys know the feedback

[Wayne76]

20 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Hi

I think the black lines (blooming) are a sensor problem which can appear on bright stars. I get it with my Canon 1100d. The qhy manual says (p18)

"About controlling for BLOOMING
QHY10/12 CCD chip have the -100dB aintioverflow
foundation. Anti-overflow capacity is
slightly lower than QHY8PRO of-110dB. So there is
possible to overflow for shooting very bright target
For the overflow problem of SONY CCD chip,
please install mechanical shutter to solve. If
mechanical shutter is indeed necessary, please
consult QHYCCD or your area dealer."

Hope that helps

Louise

Thank you Louis, I will write to the QHY company, and let you guys know the feedback I get

[sloz1664]

You need to set your gain and offset. On my QHY8 Pro it is 12 gain, 121 offset.

Set up instructions:-

Gain & Offset.pdf

gain and offset.pdf

Steve

[Wayne76]

Hi 

The line and the purple effect was due to high speed transfer, after I turn it off, it is gone,no ideal how happy I was...

Now I have another problem...

My star is green.........

I am using C11, HyperStar, QHY10, Gain 12 offset 124, pic below are single frame photo

[Wayne76]

On 2017/12/15 at 20:49, Wayne76 said:

Thank you Louis, I will write to the QHY company, and let you guys know the feedback I get

There is no feedback from QHY company, ..........

[carastro]

Yes I was going to mention the download speed, but you have already found that out, did that also get rid of the black line by the star?  I remember some time ago when I had a QHY8L I got lines if I used the fast download speed which is apparently only for frame and focus.  

QHY are sometimes slow at getting back to you, but I didn't always understand the answer anyway, I think due to the language difference.  But he's normally OK at replying albeit slowly. 

Looks like you need to balance your colours (also take shorter exposures for the core of M42).

Carole 

 

[Thalestris24]

It's worth reading through the manual

Louise

[Wayne76]

7 hours ago, carastro said:

Yes I was going to mention the download speed, but you have already found that out, did that also get rid of the black line by the star?  I remember some time ago when I had a QHY8L I got lines if I used the fast download speed which is apparently only for frame and focus.  

QHY are sometimes slow at getting back to you, but I didn't always understand the answer anyway, I think due to the language difference.  But he's normally OK at replying albeit slowly. 

Looks like you need to balance your colours (also take shorter exposures for the core of M42).

Carole 

 

Hi Carole, 

Yes, the line effect is gone, after I use the normal download speed, as you can see in the last 3 photo I posted, there is no more purple or line effect.

but now I got green star, you have mention that I need to do color balance, on the ezcap it come out just like that, The 3 photo posted is single frame photo, and I didnt change other setting on the EZCAP program

If someone can tell me how to make the green star back to white star will be great,

 

Thank You

Wayne

[Wayne76]

12 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

It's worth reading through the manual

Louise

I did, but manual didn’t say anything about purple frames and the line during fast download mode ..?

[carastro]

I could never get on with EZcap, I used APT (Astrophotography tool) with this camera.

The Carina Nebula looks good now.

You need to stack your resulting images and do some post processing.  Assessing the results from one image is not a fair judgement.  In post processing you need something like Photoshop or Pixinsight.  In photoshop there is a plugin called HLVG  (Hasta la vista green) that you can use to get rid of green.

These are your above images treated with HLVG (this is a free plugin for Photoshop).

[Wayne76]

1 hour ago, carastro said:

I could never get on with EZcap, I used APT (Astrophotography tool) with this camera.

The Carina Nebula looks good now.

You need to stack your resulting images and do some post processing.  Assessing the results from one image is not a fair judgement.  In post processing you need something like Photoshop or Pixinsight.  In photoshop there is a plugin called HLVG  (Hasta la vista green) that you can use to get rid of green.

These are your above images treated with HLVG (this is a free plugin for Photoshop).

Thanks Caroline, 

I work on light room and pixsight only, 

Those are single frame image only I used it to do test shot, but fundamentally the star should be white in the first place, I will try APT tonight, and change exposure a bit as well,

 

Thank you

[sloz1664]

52 minutes ago, Wayne76 said:

Thanks Caroline, 

I work on light room and pixsight only, 

Those are single frame image only I used it to do test shot, but fundamentally the star should be white in the first place, I will try APT tonight, and change exposure a bit as well,

 

Thank you

Hi Wayne,

If you have Pixinsight. Use SCNR to remove the green cast from your star. I suggest you have a look at Harry Page's tutorials on how to use Pixinsight effectively.

http://www.harrysastroshed.com/pixinsight/pixinsight video html/Pixinsighthome.html

Steve

[Thalestris24]

4 hours ago, Wayne76 said:

I did, but manual didn’t say anything about purple frames and the line during fast download mode ..?

"When you finish Focusing, open the Capture column and start shooting. Set the appropriate value of Gain, Offset and exposure time Select 1x1 Binning mode, select the low read-out speed. Click Capture to shoot."

Pay particular attention to the need for calibration frames. I know the manual's english needs some extra translation but if you're unsure just ask here

Louise

[Wayne76]

4 hours ago, sloz1664 said:

Hi Wayne,

If you have Pixinsight. Use SCNR to remove the green cast from your star. I suggest you have a look at Harry Page's tutorials on how to use Pixinsight effectively.

http://www.harrysastroshed.com/pixinsight/pixinsight video html/Pixinsighthome.html

Steve

Thank Steve

[Wayne76]

Ok, I manage to get ride of the Green Star to be white now.....

After stacking them up in the DSS, then process in Pixsight,

Now I have many small star is hollow..., this is horrify........

Pic below is with 25s, Hyper Star, C11, 60 light, 30 dark, 30 bias, no flat ( Flate just seems too dfficult to do it with Hyperstar system ia in front of the telescope lense)

In the EZCap focuing mode, it state that prefer to be under value 25, but my value jump from 8 -85 up and down,

but In my single fram shot, the star is all round, but after I stacking them up, it become like this...