c8 edge ,qhy5 ll mono and jupiter,what to expect

[iwols]

hi all first go with the above setup should i expect more cheers

 

[Cornelius Varley]

It might be better to convert the image to .jpg or .png format so that it is visible in the forum and not have to be downloaded.

[baggywrinkle]

That is more or less what I got with my ZWO mono CCD

[michael.h.f.wilkinson]

You should be able to get more with a C8. I have imaged with a camera with similar chip (ASI130MM), and got results like this

 

I did use a 2.5x PowerMate and filter wheel. More details here:

 

[iwols]

funny enough ive just had a 2.25 baader barlow delivered will try tonight if poss

[iwols]

well gave it another go with the 2.25 added and slightly better,is the qhy5ii l mono letting me down a bit,any advice appreciated guys

[ngwillym]

Now you're probably down to seeing and processing.

How many frames are you stacking and what software are you using to process the images?

 

 

[iwols]

well dont quote me but i think it was about 300 and just used registax and a complete starter with this kind of imaging cheers

[Grotemobile]

U need to do about a 3min run on Jupiter, max. U can derotate  the image in Registax.

This will give U more frames to work with. I keep about 20% of the frames.

[Astrosurf]

Did you use Wavelets? I prefer to use Autostakkert!2 to process and do Registax Wavelets on the resultant TIFF. Also, if you process in PIPP, it will crop out all the black sky around the planet so reducing the file size and processing speed.

http://www.autostakkert.com/wp/download/

https://sites.google.com/site/astropipp/

Alexxx

[ngwillym]

Ok, here's what i do/used to do. I'm no expert and Im sure there will be better advice follwoing

 

i) the first aim is to capture as many frames as possible in the hope that some of them will be of high quality. so, for Jupiter this usually means  no more than 60 - 90 seconds of video (you can do more but then you're into the darker art of derotation - lets keep it simple for now). Try to capture at as fast a shutter speed as your camera will allow - preferably no slower than 1/30th sec and as many frames/sec as possible - @1/30th = 30 fps = 1800 frames/minute)

ii) when you stack the frames (either in Registax or AutoStakkaert (AS!2)) - don't stack every frame - (in Registax - take a look at the quality graph and try to guess what percentage of the frames are good enough - it may be as low as 10% - in AS!2 you can save a number of different stacks at once (in the stack options) typically I always stack @10%, 25%, 40% and 70% and eyeball the outputs afterwards to see which might be best for further processing)

iii) Once you've stacked then use Wavelets in Registax. for Jupiter I tend to use only layers 1,2, and 6 (sometimes 3 as well). Start with 6 and move the slider to the right and up the sharpening until the image gets noisy, then up the denoise to remove the noise - this is all really down to personal preference. then do the same for layer2 and 1. At the end, use histogram, gamma and RGB Balance to ajust colour, brightness etc to suit.

 

Hope this helps

Neil

[iwols]

thanks for all the advice guys do you think the detail now is due to it being mono and not colour

[iwols]

final edit