daveb Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 If i attatch a fan to either end of my newt would it quicken the cooling down time for the mirror? And ifso which direction would you have the air flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinker1947 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 If you just use it for view, don't bother adjust the focus as it cools down, leaving it in a unheated room, garage or shed will get it to the right temperature before its used.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brantuk Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Absolutely - I have a fan on the back of the mirror of my 16" and it cools in roughly 30mins. The difference to the mirror surface is remarkable - I'm so sad I once sat constantly watching it visibly clearing lol. It also pushes air up the tube clearing out warm currents whilst keeping air moving over the mirror discouraging dew formation. Here's everything you need to know about newts and fans: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/bgreer/fanselect.htm Hth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamp thing Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 6 minutes ago, brantuk said: - I'm so sad I once sat constantly watching it visibly clearing lol. Oh dear. You really need to get out more Kim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveb Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I have a very small fan (40mm) built in to the mirror cell and blows air away from the back of mirror, i can't see that it would be powerful enough to cool a 12" mirror down quickly or to clear the warm air from the tube. This is why i want to clear the warm air before i start to observe. What would be the best type of fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brantuk Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Lol Steve yes I should get out more hahaha - but I was very curious on that day and just had to see it for myself. I was actually amazed cos the scope is kept in the garage very near ambient and the fan still made a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Physopto Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I would suspect a larger good quality ball bearing slow running fan so as not to introduce any vibration. Some of the better computer fans come with silicon anti vibration mountings. You can use a PWM voltage control as well if wanted. Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigT82 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I've just made up my own cooling fan using an 80mm pic fan mounted in a circle of 6mm neoprene to dampen vibration. Seems to work well but haven't used it in anger yet, hope to tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveb Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 4 hours ago, brantuk said: Absolutely - I have a fan on the back of the mirror of my 16" and it cools in roughly 30mins. The difference to the mirror surface is remarkable - I'm so sad I once sat constantly watching it visibly clearing lol. It also pushes air up the tube clearing out warm currents whilst keeping air moving over the mirror discouraging dew formation. Here's everything you need to know about newts and fans: http://www.fpi-protostar.com/bgreer/fanselect.htm Hth Hi Brantuk, this made very intresting reading. The fan i have fitted in the mirror cell of my oo 12" mirror is less than half the size it should be going by the text you sent me, which means i must fit another fan on the rear of the scope☺thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brantuk Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I'm not so sure it's an exact science Dave - I run my fan for half an hour on full speed to clear - then turn it down to half speed to keep a steady flow whilst observing. And the exact speed needed depends so much on temperature and moisture conditions on each night. But it is a good article that gives a decent guide where to start from. Hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetstream Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Great link Brantuk, Brian Greer has done extensive testing. I might add that for large mirrors the placement of the fan or fans can be crucial to maintain the optical performance of the mirror, it has been said. The safest bet is one at the bottom as is usually seen. We are lucky to have access to all this info... http://www.loptics.com/articles/starshape/starshape.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetstream Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 It might be time to get the smoke pen out...again My latest craze is standing as far away from my truss as possible with the shroud pulled up a foot or so lol! and it helps..... Thermals, thermals... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricochet Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 What do you use as a power source for the fan(s)? Presumably if you're not using any motors or dew straps you can get away within something smaller than a 12v jump start power pack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jetstream Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 8 hours ago, daveb said: I have a very small fan (40mm) built in to the mirror cell and blows air away from the back of mirror, i can't see that it would be powerful enough to cool a 12" mirror down quickly or to clear the warm air from the tube. This is why i want to clear the warm air before i start to observe. What would be the best type of fan? The mirror only cools at a certain rate, a bigger fan doesn't necessarily mean it will cool faster. Having the tube just above horizontal will let the heat out one side of the tube and the cool down the other (so to speak) speeding cooldown. Some use boundary layer fans but I wouldn't want dust or grit blowing across my mirrors face... Once near equalized the interesting thing is what happens to the boundary layer... this is in Greers info. If it were me I wouldn't change the fan, I shut mine off for periods when high power observing- the view will tell you when its time to turn it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigT82 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 35 minutes ago, Ricochet said: What do you use as a power source for the fan(s)? Presumably if you're not using any motors or dew straps you can get away within something smaller than a 12v jump start power pack? You can get holders for AA batteries (8 of them for 12v) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Leads-Switch-Black-Battery-Holder/dp/B00CQKCXXE or what I use is a cheap Chinese lithium poly 12v battery off eBay. These thing claim to be 6.8Ah but they're not... Stil cheap and handy for powering 12v stuff though like fans or dew strips though. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281908725680 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brantuk Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 That Brain Greer link is a good one too Jetstream - certainly stuff in there that I can use to refine my collimation. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveb Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 On 28/02/2016 at 18:34, brantuk said: I'm not so sure it's an exact science Dave - I run my fan for half an hour on full speed to clear - then turn it down to half speed to keep a steady flow whilst observing. And the exact speed needed depends so much on temperature and moisture conditions on each night. But it is a good article that gives a decent guide where to start from. Hope it helps. I think its suck it and see, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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