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Photo help with travelscope


greamec

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Hi all,

I got a Travelscope 70 and decided to try some photography with my DSLR. I got a 2x barlow with t thread and a Nikon ring, screwed it all to the scope and put the camera in manual mode. Turned the camera to live view and got an image on the screen, problem is that the image is upside down ( I am using the image diagonal so why is it upside down?) Anyway I thought why not take an upside down picture. But for some reason the picture is not recorded I get a black picture. 

Please can someone help me work this out please.

Many thanks Greame

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Probably upside down because that is the way it is. The eye actually produces an upside down image, just the brain reinverts it, I suspect you are looking at what the eye would get. Also makes no difference, get a flight go to Aus and everything is "upside down". The well known question: Is the moon upside down in Australia?

Blank is I suspect because the camera is trying to do something and the parameters are not allowing sufficent light through. Putting the camera in manual mode is the first step:

What exposure setting did you define?

What ISO is set?

The camera will need to be told everything, setting it to "M" doesn't mean much.

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If you want a normal image that is not upside down then you would have to remove the diagonal and add a 2" extension then the scope would behave like a camera lens.

As mentioned by ronin the camera settings will have something to do with the dark image, I believe that nikon cameras have to be told to "shoot without lens" even in manual mode.

Alan

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Probably upside down because that is the way it is. The eye actually produces an upside down image, just the brain reinverts it, I suspect you are looking at what the eye would get. Also makes no difference, get a flight go to Aus and everything is "upside down". The well known question: Is the moon upside down in Australia?

Blank is I suspect because the camera is trying to do something and the parameters are not allowing sufficent light through. Putting the camera in manual mode is the first step:

What exposure setting did you define?

What ISO is set?

The camera will need to be told everything, setting it to "M" doesn't mean much.

Thanks for your help can you give me some settings to try to get me going. Just trying to take some wildlife pics in the garden for now.

Thanks again Greame

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if camera is used in auto it will not operate as you have seen for yourself,it has to be manual

remove the diagonal from the optical path it serves no use,use the barlow in camera attach to scope

focus,in daylight use iso 100 and maybe speed of 1/160 or there abouts you should get a picture

for night time use iso 800 and select bulb mode in camera menu ans use a remote switch to operate

if no remote switch drop speed of capture down to 30

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if camera is used in auto it will not operate as you have seen for yourself,it has to be manual

remove the diagonal from the optical path it serves no use,use the barlow in camera attach to scope

focus,in daylight use iso 100 and maybe speed of 1/160 or there abouts you should get a picture

for night time use iso 800 and select bulb mode in camera menu ans use a remote switch to operate

if no remote switch drop speed of capture down to 30

Hi,

I removed the diagonal but if I do that it is just blurry no focus. With the diagonal in focus is easy. I tried your settings but still just a black image. I tried to shoot a movie and that was fine, don't understand why it will not take pictures.

Greame

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Remember that because your now using the telescope as a lens instead of a dslr lens that communicates info with the camera you must experiment with ISO and lengths of exposure. Unless your tracking you wont get away with much exposure time with a larger focal length scope. I'd try upping the ISO and shooting for under 15 seconds in bulb mode.

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Ideally I would not use the barlow if you have a static mount as your barlow is doubling the focal length so meaning even shorter exposures before star trails if this is for night use.

Day use I guess you will be using a fast shutter speed so not the same trailing issue.

For my ST80 I bought one of these here as an example. I needed this as I did not have enough back focus travel once I had removed the diagonal on my small refractor.

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Ideally I would not use the barlow if you have a static mount as your barlow is doubling the focal length so meaning even shorter exposures before star trails if this is for night use.

Day use I guess you will be using a fast shutter speed so not the same trailing issue.

For my ST80 I bought one of these here as an example. I needed this as I did not have enough back focus travel once I had removed the diagonal on my small refractor.

Thanks Happy Cat

Looks like getting the 2xbarlow was a waste of money then? shame because all the research I did raved about the need to get one to achieve focus never mind. 

Ok my plan is to take out the diagonal and get an extension tube, I take it I must use an eyepiece in an extension tube right?

Thanks for your link but are any of these better ? what do you think

1. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Revelation-Projection-Camera-Adapter-1-25/dp/B0039ZDYWY/ref=pd_cp_ph_0

2. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUALITY-1-25-VARIABLE-UNIVERSAL-CAMERA-ADAPTOR-for-TELESCOPES-NEW-50P-/141548977580?

pt=UK_Photography_Telescopes&hash=item20f4f9fdac

3. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Celestron-Deluxe-Tele-Extender-for-Telescope-Brand-New-Boxed-50P-/201269650490?pt=UK_Photography_Telescopes&hash=item2edc9b243a

cheers Greame

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For SLR photography through a travel scope-70 you do not use a barlow, extension tube or diagonal

Remove the diagonal and screw the t-ring direct on the t-thread that is on the focus tube.

This will give you an upright image 400mm f5.7

You will find the centre of the image has a "soft" patch. But is easily sharpened up in processing

By trying to use barlows , extensions etc you are spending more than you need too and only create more problems  

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For SLR photography through a travel scope-70 you do not use a barlow, extension tube or diagonal

Remove the diagonal and screw the t-ring direct on the t-thread that is on the focus tube.

This will give you an upright image 400mm f5.7

You will find the centre of the image has a "soft" patch. But is easily sharpened up in processing

By trying to use barlows , extensions etc you are spending more than you need too and only create more problems  

Hi NGC404,

I tried your suggestions and its almost there, trouble is I am just out of focus and I mean just maybe a couple of mm . Am I doing something wrong? Have you done this? 

We are close here

Greame

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Just tried on mine

Can get infinity focus with 60mm of inward travel and 10mm of outward travel to play with.

No extension tube needed

You are a keg end, ignore my last my subject was to close to use the scope in this way. For subjects further away its great and to make things even better I have a 2x teleplus pro 300 in my camera bag and put that on and WOW its going to be great for astro stuff (can not wait to try it).  I have discovered that bulb mode is the way ahead. What a great little scope this has turned out to be.

Do you know how I can use this method for closer stuff (fussy aren't I) would be nice to be able to zoom right in on my bird feeders.  

Many many thanks

Greame

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