Fordos' Observatory Build

[Fordos Moon]

not too expensive, are you just running a mains hook up system like camp sites do or are you doing permanent electrics ? later more expensive of course.

this was my solution, been up and running for about a year now and no problems at all with it.

http://www.robslack1.webspace.virginmedia.com/Obsy%20Electrics.htm

Hey rob that looks pretty good to me, as does your site! Just want something that works really and I kinda like the "knowing it's all off when pull the plug out" approach!

[leelee970]

Rob's method is good. You could easy get it at the local caravan site - or Tilshead caravans (my best mate works there).

 

Myself I just used a 13Amp plug into the weatherproof outside socket - I've not had a problem in years (touch wood).

 

Inside the Obsy I have 4 x double sockets - two on North side and two on South side plus a single socket just for the 12V d.c. PSU (mount, heaters etc.).

 

I've also mains "red light" wired up which I use only at beginning and end of a session.

Lee

[Fordos Moon]

Rob's method is good. You could easy get it at the local caravan site - or Tilshead caravans (my best mate works there).

 

Myself I just used a 13Amp plug into the weatherproof outside socket - I've not had a problem in years (touch wood).

 

Inside the Obsy I have 4 x double sockets - two on North side and two on South side plus a single socket just for the 12V d.c. PSU (mount, heaters etc.).

 

I've also mains "red light" wired up which I use only at beginning and end of a session.

Lee

Thanks Lee!

At the moment I plug all my stuff (mount and dew heaters) in to the cig socket on my powertank. I know nothing about electrics so are you saying I can do without my powertank and plug things directly in to the supply to the power supplied to the observatory? You need to take some pics of your electric set-up now lol!

[leelee970]

No, you need a mains 12V dc power supply unit.

Lucky for me I use these at work.

here is the one I use. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bench-power-supplies/4366095/

anything similar will do.

I've also used this to power 12 dc red lights at floor level so aid in the times I drop things. I've d.c sockets along the walls and on the pillar. saves cables all over the place.

Lee

[malc-c]

The installation of electrics has been discussed in a lot of other build threads, but essentially if you are going to hard wire the supply then it needs to be armoured cable between the observatory and electrical outlet.  The cable can be terminated on a 13amp plug / spur, or preferably direct into the consumer unit with it's own trip switch.

You can use the camping hook up as shown in that link, or a normal 13a extension lead can be used on the sessions nights.

My observatory is fed via 2.5mm2 armoured cable that is connected to a fused spur off the kitchen mains circuit (the kitchen has its own ring main installed when we fitted new units in 2002).  This powers the PC, two monitors, 20a 13.8v regulated supply and in extreme cases a 2Kw fan heater to take the chill off the warm room.

[Fordos Moon]

The installation of electrics has been discussed in a lot of other build threads, but essentially if you are going to hard wire the supply then it needs to be armoured cable between the observatory and electrical outlet. The cable can be terminated on a 13amp plug / spur, or preferably direct into the consumer unit with it's own trip switch.

You can use the camping hook up as shown in that link, or a normal 13a extension lead can be used on the sessions nights.

My observatory is fed via 2.5mm2 armoured cable that is connected to a fused spur off the kitchen mains circuit (the kitchen has its own ring main installed when we fitted new units in 2002). This powers the PC, two monitors, 20a 13.8v regulated supply and in extreme cases a 2Kw fan heater to take the chill off the warm room.

Thanks Malc I appreciate the info - it's handy knowing what you've done, doesn't sound as daunting as I first thought esp as father in law has done power to number of buildings. Great to have some insight.

[Fordos Moon]

No, you need a mains 12V dc power supply unit.

Lucky for me I use these at work.

here is the one I use. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bench-power-supplies/4366095/

anything similar will do.

I've also used this to power 12 dc red lights at floor level so aid in the times I drop things. I've d.c sockets along the walls and on the pillar. saves cables all over the place.

Lee

Thanks for the link Lee - everything costs over £100 lately!

[malc-c]

This is the PSU I use

Retails for around £35

Runs my HEQ5, dew heaters, canon 400D, led lighting etc

[leelee970]

My P.S.U. is over the top in price - but work was "willing" to buy it.   

Try Maplin near Tesco. As Malcom stated it needs to be 13.8v regulated supply and the more Amps it can handle the better.

You are only running a cable 3 mtrs away so you could get away with none armoured - just buy some trunking/conduit to protect the external cable.

Lee

[Tinker1947]

I have 2 Maplin 13.8v 5 amp and one of the 200w fusion in malcolm's post, the maplin type have connectors that the red and black knobs unscrew and come off so a 6mm round type connector can be slipped on and the knob screwed down, the Fusion type on mine the knobs unscrew but don't come off so they would need "Y" type connectors these slide on and the knobs tightened to stop them slipping off, so the Maplin will run 2 dew heaters on 13.8v no regulator and it gets warm - hot'ish, the other maplin runs the mount, the Fusion atm just runs a small dew heater shows 0.3 amps drawn, the Fusion also has a internal fan that runs 24/7 while the PSU is powered up, if i were starting out again i would go for a 30amp 13.8 volt Maplin....

FLO/Maplin type  http://www.firstlightoptics.com/power/maplins-xm21x-7a-138v-regulated-mains-power-supply.html

Fusion type  https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=30209

[Tinker1947]

My Cable runs from my workshop and has a 3 pin plug/rca on the end, the cable i think come from Amazon 5 meter length, caravan connector on the back of the Obby, i don't unplug it.....

[yesyes]

I use this

http://www.yesyes.info/index.php/diy/telescope-power-and-data-box/

[Fordos Moon]

Lesson learned (may help others) - make sure your roof rolls off as much as possible as the height of the roof end could get in the way of something you want to view/image.

[leelee970]

Lesson learned (may help others) - make sure your roof rolls off as much as possible as the height of the roof end could get in the way of something you want to view/image.

I'm not sure if this will help, but I moved the leading wheels further along to the middle of the roof (hope makes sense). this allowed me to move the roof further away from the obsy.

I also made sure it rolled towards North ( which is an area I don't observe often).

Lee

[Fordos Moon]

I'm not sure if this will help, but I moved the leading wheels further along to the middle of the roof (hope makes sense). this allowed me to move the roof further away from the obsy.

I also made sure it rolled towards North ( which is an area I don't observe often).

Lee

Funny you should say that mate, if it becomes a problem I had thought of moving the far wheels in which will enable me another 6 inch roll off! However until we can get some trees lopped there is no more sky to be seen! The trees are the other reason I decided to roll off south. They will never be completely removed - its a 300 year old Yew Wood!

[leelee970]

Tell me about trees. I've a Silverburch direct south - although a long way from Obsy. But I sited my Obsy under another tree - soon a chainsaw will be coming out I feel.

Myself I set my wheel back by about 12" - made a quite a difference.

Lee

[Fordos Moon]

That horrible moment you have to push your roof overhang too far in order to move the end wheels back so it rolls off further!!

[Tinker1947]

opphhhs, hope its all back as it should be now....

[Fordos Moon]

It's back. I think the wood has moved since I built it though. Strange how it behaves. Some of my gap tolerances are pretty close now.

[Tinker1947]

Wood will suck up moisture, it then grows bigger across the grain, but not length wise, in the summer it will dry out and shrink a bit getting it right ain't easy....

[Fordos Moon]

Wood will suck up moisture, it then grows bigger across the grain, but not length wise, in the summer it will dry out and shrink a bit getting it right ain't easy....

That explains it Tinker, I guess so long as it still slides on and off I'm okay :-)

[Gina]

I did think of gluing my roof joints but decided a bit of flexability was a good thing.  All the major joints are bolted and allow a bit of movement.  Structural stability is helped by bracing pieces.

[leelee970]

I put an end stop at the end of each runner to prevent the roof sliding too far ( I hope).

[Fordos Moon]

Lessons Learned from 4 months of use:

Give gap between roof and sides a little tolerance as it will sag a tiny bit. (half inch).

Let the spiders build their webs as they keep beetles and things out.

When building allow space for a reclining garden chair to fit in (this has been a fortunate god-send).

Make sure the roof rolls off a little past the side so that it's height does not impair vision when scope facing same direction. (I had to do a bit of work to fix this).

Do not cover up all the crannies or timbers in walls as they make excellent shelves.

Put a few cup hooks about the place as always handy.

Add a beam at front and back of roof to grab hold of to roll it on or off. (fortunately my design gave me this by accident).

Paint the walls dark or put dark posters up so your laptop screen-light is not reflected around the place.

[Tinker1947]

I think my best move has been to get a Dob so i can look at the Stars while the stuff in the Obby does its thing, a lot of what you have mentioned has been on/in my improvement list, there still a lot more to do, but enjoying what we have comes first......