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Canon 350D mod. Has anyone attempted this?

pixueto

By pixueto
in DIY Astronomer

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pixueto

pixueto

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Dear all,

I've tried to mod my canon 350D following Davis Campbell's instructions: http://www.12dstring.me.uk/350dmod.htm

but twice I had to re-assemble it as I couldn't manage to desolder the metal shield. Has anyone encountered this problem bebore? I'm not used to using a soldering iron but I did some practice with desoldering wick on an old circuit. Someone tod me that the soldering in the camera could be much stronger because they use ultrawaves for that. I'm pretty sure it must be me, though as, in all o fthe different guides for modding the camera I've seen, nobody mentions any difficultty when attempting this step. If you've been there before, I would love to hear how you overcame this.

Mny thanks

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Gina

Gina

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Yes, you need an adequately powered soldering iron. I use a vacuum pump too - manual type where you push a plunger in against a strong spring and there a catch to hold it then press a button to release it. I have two and one is like a soldering iron with a heating element to heat the tip. That's very effective. The tip is hollow to suck up the solder.

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pixueto

pixueto

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pixueto,Have you tried applying some solder flux to the joint to help the solder flow more freely? A water soluble flux pen costs just a few pounds. It can also help to actually apply more fresh solder to a joint before desoldering for similar reasons.

Thank you. The thing is that I seem to be the only one that is having trouble with this. I'm afraid that if apply too much heat I might damage the circuit or the sensor.

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pixueto

pixueto

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pixueto,Have you tried applying some solder flux to the joint to help the solder flow more freely? A water soluble flux pen costs just a few pounds. It can also help to actually apply more fresh solder to a joint before desoldering for similar reasons.

I used a 30W solder iron but no luck. Then I bought a 50w solder iron from mapplin. When I switched it on, some white smoke came from the joint . I couldn't desolder it either. Do you think I should return the item? (I can melt my solder but not the one in the camera).

That's two soldering iron that I have tried so I'm thinking if must be me being clumsy?

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pixueto

pixueto

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Yes, you need an adequately powered soldering iron. I use a vacuum pump too - manual type where you push a plunger in against a strong spring and there a catch to hold it then press a button to release it. I have two and one is like a soldering iron with a heating element to heat the tip. That's very effective. The tip is hollow to suck up the solder.

The problem is that I wouldn't be able to use the pump as I can't melt the solder in the camera.

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Freff

Freff

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With respect, if you feel uncomfortable at this stage in doing the mod, I'd leave well alone. It's not an easy job if you are not confident.

There are some very delicate connections that have to be dismantle and re-connected. Then there is the re-soldering. Good luck.

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pixueto

pixueto

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With respect, if you feel uncomfortable at this stage in doing the mod, I'd leave well alone. It's not an easy job if you are not confident.

There are some very delicate connections that have to be dismantle and re-connected. Then there is the re-soldering. Good luck.

Thanks for the tip Tony. It's not that I'm reckless; I'm aware of the difficulties and dangers in that task and yes, maybe I'm not up to it. I modded my hand controller in my EQ5 (which is much easier) and I see the 350 D mod as a challenge. The thing that worries me a lot is applying heat to such a delicate area - the re-soldering doesn't scare me, thought. I might be wrong but I felt quite confident following the instructions to reach the metal shield; it's the desoldering that's killing me. I got an iron solder replacement and might try with a pump next time I have a day off with no kids ariund the house.

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Freff

Freff

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I think you'll be fine by what you say you have done and the stage you are at with the mod now.

Having the right soldering iron is a must. I'm not sure what mine is, it's wattage is adjustable. I check later on it's max setting which I used.

I think its better to have a slightly hotter iron than is needed.

A short hot touch to get the solder running is better than holding a nearly hot iron for ages over a cooking circuit board.

I don't think the solder areas are by critical parts of the circuit anyway, especially if you apply the heat at the shield.

I was more worried about breaking the tabs off the connectors and then working loose.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
bobchez

bobchez

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Hi, i don't know if you achieved unsoldering the join, I just modded my canon and i've got the same problem. Here's what i've done:

with a small screw driver, I've put a pression upward under the metal shield near the joint I was trying to unsolder, then when the solder was melting, the metal shield lifted. Ive done that for every joint.

I've done that because i was unable to suck up the melt metal with my pump, but in my case, it was melting.

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