200P & EQ5 for AP - Will I get away with it?

[Gomtuu]

I have the EQ5 Synscan Goto and a 200PDS. I'm intending to just observe for the moment, but at some stage I want to get into AP.

I've read that autoguiders can't step the motors on upgraded EQ5s sufficiently accurately, but I was wondering if this applies to the prebuilt EQ5 Synscan Goto.

The handset gives autoguiding options of 0.125x, 0.25x, 0.5x, 0.75x and 1x guiding rates.

[Quatermass]

I have the EQ5 Synscan Goto and a 200PDS. I'm intending to just observe for the moment, but at some stage I want to get into AP.

I've read that autoguiders can't step the motors on upgraded EQ5s sufficiently accurately, but I was wondering if this applies to the prebuilt EQ5 Synscan Goto.

The handset gives autoguiding options of 0.125x, 0.25x, 0.5x, 0.75x and 1x guiding rates.

Just correct you on that the synscan gears will be fine with an autoguider it is the dual axis upgrade kit for the EQ5 mount that they have a problem with because you can get a low enough ratio low as you can go is 2x 4 and 8 and auto guiders like the LVI need a lower gear ratio to work well so the synscan gears will be fine for guiding. Auto guiders dont like the gears on the dual axis kit upgrade for the eq5 mounts but I got it working fine by not using an auto guider and instead using PHD the free guiding software from Starks Labs and a Guide Port USB adapter with an ST4 port conversion kit for the hand controller of the dual axis motor kit, phew trying saying that after a few pints.. Lol

All the info on that is on my blog for those intrested.

heres what my set up now looks like.

[Quatermass]

Quatermass

Fantastic images. I have the same set up and was getting star trailing at times but believe my balance was fine in RA and dec but had not considered rotating the tube to get balance better with camera attached. Will try again and hope for better results. I was going to answer original question with " Go for a HEQ5 or NEQ6 " but you have shown it can be done. Thanks

Neil

Thank you, It can be done but if you have the dosh I would advice to get an HEQ5 its also important to point out that getting all those nice images requires standing out side for hours and hours in the cold and getting a crick in the neck and looking like a zombie the next day but Im a fisherman so Im used to cold weather and sitting outside for hours

[Gomtuu]

the synscan gears will be fine for guiding

Thanks QM, really useful info again! And as Neil said, thanks for showing it can be done with this kit.

[Catweazel]

You can use a T-ring and the Direct Camera Connection. I.e. the 1.25" eyepiece holder unscrews into 2 parts: the eyepiece holder barrel, and the adapter part which goes in the focuser. This part has a screw thread which will allow you to attach a normal T-ring.

Thanks. I have one of these, which is 1.25" and has a screw thread:

And I need one of these to attach the camera to it:

Canon EOS T Ring

Is that right? Thanks again

[Quatermass]

Thanks. I have one of these, which is 1.25" and has a screw thread:

And I need one of these to attach the camera to it:

Canon EOS T Ring

Is that right? Thanks again

Thats right all you do is unscrew the barrel from that then you screw the bit that fits in your focuser into your adapter like so

Star Gazing

[Quatermass]

You already have this part with a 200p which when removed from your focuser then unscrews

So with it unscrewed heres the canon adapter in between them

Then the canon adapter screwed into it

And then that goes into your canon camera like so

Then put that in your 200p focuser clamp it down and your good to go. Also helps to have a remote timer so you can use bulb mode and not stand around for hours in the cold pressing buttons.:)

[Catweazel]

Thanks Quatermass, will look into remote timer once I get going; something like this one I'm guessing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Timer-Remote-Control-RS-60E3-Canon/dp/B003WD0IKO/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

[Black Knight]

Hey QM, hang onto those pics of the 200P 1.25" adapter - this question comes up all the time!

[Quatermass]

thats the dude got mine from amazon great little timer

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[Quatermass]

Hey QM, hang onto those pics of the 200P 1.25" adapter - this question comes up all the time!

All covered in me blog glad I started that blog sure helps when the questions start taking off and also helps me as my heads like a seive

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[glowjet]

Would the ED80 be ok on a EQ5 mount?

That setup with motor drives is what a lot of imagers use

[Catweazel]

I notice that the part in my picture above doesnt unscrew, it's moulded and is about 1.5 inches long. The bottom end is inverted and fits into the focuser, and can then be tightened with a screw. The threaded end looks like a slightly longer (about 3/4") version of the one in Quatermass' pic. Does that sound OK? I seem to remember that when I bought the 200P, the seller said that he had put a T-ring on this piece and connected straight to the scope! CW

[Quatermass]

I notice that the part in my picture above doesnt unscrew, it's moulded and is about 1.5 inches long. The bottom end is inverted and fits into the focuser, and can then be tightened with a screw. The threaded end looks like a slightly longer (about 3/4") version of the one in Quatermass' pic. Does that sound OK? I seem to remember that when I bought the 200P, the seller said that he had put a T-ring on this piece and connected straight to the scope! CW

If you dont have the one that unscrews like mine than you will need to get one of these

T Adaptor 1.25"

[Catweazel]

If you dont have the one that unscrews like mine than you will need to get one of these

T Adaptor 1.25"

Hmmm...where does the longer part of the unscrewed unit/additonal adaptor go? Is it screwed on so that it is in front of the camera & T-ring, and then goes into the focuser tube. I only ask as I find it confusing that the 200P says that it has a 'direct SLR camera connection', and my understanding was that all I needed to connect it was a T-ring?

[Quatermass]

That is correct with my supplyed section I just unscrew the barrel leaving me with the bit that goes in the 2inc focuser hole. With the barrel off and your t adapter on your good to go.

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[malc-c]

Ok, my take is that there is no hard and fast rule. For every recommendation of X scope on and Y mount there will always be exceptions. Most would suggest an EQ6/200P as being the ideal combo for imaging with a guidescope system. A lot of us are getting good results with the HEQ5/200p combo. But, as QM has shown, with a bit of ingenuity the basic EQ5 and bog standard dual axis motors can give exceedingly good results, which "out class" some of those taken with the "recommend" combination.

One thing for sure is that imaging is hard work regardless of what equipment you use. Once you throw computers, software and telescopes in the mix there is always something that won't play ball. But on the odd occasion it all falls into place and it's really fun to do. I still get goose-bumps when that first exposure appears on the monitor, and find the learning curve of image processing interesting.

Having both the EQ5 and HEQ5 mounts I would say that the HEQ5 is the superior mount, and has better quality motors, but I'm privileged enough to have a permanent set up in an observatory and thus don't have to lug it around each session. So what suits me won't suit you or QM etc etc as we each have different domestic and personal circumstances.

The HEQ5 is the ideal compromise. It has the same precision motors as the EQ6, has higher load capacity than the EQ5 but is still light enough to be portable as the EQ5. It has built in ST4 ports and with internal motors, offers a neat installation.

[Catweazel]

That is correct with my supplyed section I just unscrew the barrel leaving me with the bit that goes in the 2inc focuser hole. With the barrel off and your t adapter on your good to go.

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Ok, thanks again Quatermass

@malc-c, Thanks for some interesting points there. Ideally I would like an HEQ5/EQ6, but I want to have a go first, to see if I get into it. Then, if I do, consult the bank balance & mrs

[malc-c]

Ideally I would like an HEQ5/EQ6, but I want to have a go first, to see if I get into it. Then, if I do, consult the bank balance & mrs

Exactly... and to be fair, you'll always recover some of the cost of the EQ5 should you follow QM's approach and then later want to upgrade.

A year ago I was in the same boat. I hadn't really thought about full imaging rig, but did want the option to take pictures through the scope, and I purchased the 200p / EQ5 pro goto as that was the most scope I could afford that met my criteria. Six months on from purchase I had built my observatory and purchased a secondhand HEQ5 with guide scope and qhy5 camera.... I never thought at the time of purchase I would have the set up I now have, nor be getting the images I've achieved so far.

Yes I have an EQ5 to which I've added an 127 Mak that seldom gets used, and I might sell it at some point, but then on the odd occasion it's been set up so I can do visual whilst the software on the PC is happily automating the image gathering process on the 200P - best of both world really

[Quatermass]

I started of with my mobile phone strapped to my telescope lens with a rubberband and got these

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[Catweazel]

I started of with my mobile phone strapped to my telescope lens with a rubberband and got these

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thats incredible! I never would have thought it would work! Is that an iPhone? I have a HTC Wildfire S, which is ok apart from one thing; the battery would probably run out walking from the lounge to the garden

@malc-c, Good point, I also have an Evostar 120 frac, which I really like for lunar & planetary views and would probably want to keep, so might hold on to the EQ5 to use with that in the future.

[Quatermass]

The phone was my old nokie dropped it down the loo though

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[Chris]

Hi CW just to comfirm for the two weeks I owned the scope it was very easy to attach my Canon D1100, my t-ring screwed direct to the upward aspect of the camera adaptor you showed above, and the downward aspect fits into the 2" focusser:) The problem I had was getting focus as the CCD chip in Dslr cameras is roughly 40mm behind where the front of the camera attaches to the scope, hence you need to focus in an extra 40mm to achieve focus and there isn't enough travel. You can get around this lack of travel on the focusser by attaching a barlow, but if its a 2x Barlow you instantly turn your scope into an f/10 which is great for Moon mosaics, and planetary webcam imaging but f/10 is too slow for DSO and also the field of view is too narrow. The way around this is too move the primary mirror forward a bit, then you can achieve focus at f/5, happy days:D as I mentioned to you when we met, I'm not sure how much to move the primary forward?? QM over to you matey:D

p.s. have you had the 200p out for visual yet CW??

[Quatermass]

I use a canon 350d that might be the reason never had a problem getting focus.

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[RikM]

There have been some changes to the focuser of the 200P over the years. Earlier ones don't reach focus with a DSLR unless you change the focuser or use a barlow (not good for deep sky). They changed the focuser design in the last couple of years.

Do you know how old the scope you have is?