200P & EQ5 for AP - Will I get away with it?

[Catweazel]

OK Chris, It just occured to me that since I have changed the focuser, I may be able to get focus anyway. Quatermass seems to have had no trouble, so it's probably best to try that before tinkering. And, yes, to be honest, if I still can't do it I may just give up and get one of Ian Kings last few Ikharos 80's Would have to sell one of my 2 scopes to do it though, I reckon

[malc-c]

I'll stand corrected, but the issue of getting focus only really applies to older 200P's. The current version with the 2" focuser that has the direct connection ring shouldn't have a problem. My 200P purchased last year worked fine with a friends 300D and my 400D. No need to shift mirrors etc.

APT is simple to use. My 400D requires a serial cable to get exposures over 30 sec, which was made quite cheaply using a USB TTL cable and a simple opto Isolator chip, but commercial units are available.

With good polar alignment I would guess that the EQ5 would give 90 - 200 seconds before stars drift, depending on the area of sky, long enough to get enough subs to stack and give some decent results IMO

[Chris]

Hey CW, I'm sure you'll get focus one way or another with the 200p, but if you could affored the Ikarus 80 I don't think you would regret it, especially with the reducer/flatenner for just another 45 quid! I keep thinking of this scope despite just buying a second hand WO 66, I'm trying hard not to buy one even though I don't strictly need one:D

[Catweazel]

I'll stand corrected, but the issue of getting focus only really applies to older 200P's. The current version with the 2" focuser that has the direct connection ring shouldn't have a problem. My 200P purchased last year worked fine with a friends 300D and my 400D. No need to shift mirrors etc.

Yeah, I now have the adapter that unscrews so that I can put the T-Ring on direct.

APT is simple to use. My 400D requires a serial cable to get exposures over 30 sec, which was made quite cheaply using a USB TTL cable and a simple opto Isolator chip, but commercial units are available.

I have the 1000D, not sure until I try it, but that's handy to know, thanks.

With good polar alignment I would guess that the EQ5 would give 90 - 200 seconds before stars drift, depending on the area of sky, long enough to get enough subs to stack and give some decent results IMO

Ok, sounds good to me! Thanks malc

[malc-c]

No need for a serial cable, the 1000D uses the DigicIII processor which supports USB for long exposure control.

[Quatermass]

So if your camera can be attached problem solved then I guess. I suggest getting out there asap and try to get some images of Orion Nebula before its gone.

Don't mess about just take 30x30sec shots ISO800 same again ISO 1600 and when you have done that take 30 dark's and 30 flats. Stack that lot in deep sky stacker and you will have a good start.

Clouds willing that is mind.

[Catweazel]

No need for a serial cable, the 1000D uses the DigicIII processor which supports USB for long exposure control.

Thanks again for this info Malc. Where would I be without this forum

[Catweazel]

Hi again, two more questions if I may:

1. When using APT, can I get it to focus for me using LiveView?
   
2. Does the focuser on the scope need to be all the way in before I try focusing with the camera/LiveView using APT ?
   

Hope these aren't too daft

[RikM]

No such thing as a daft question

No, APT can't focus for you when using a telescope but it can with a DSLR and camera lens.

I would say start with the focuser almost all the way in and look through the camera view finder at a bright star and turn the focus wheel slowly until the star looks about right before you start with fine tuning using APT.

Click on the live view button and get your bright star in the centre of the screen. Click the zoom button to 5x or even better 10x. Then turn the focus wheel on the scope until the star is small and sharp.

If it is too shaky doing it that way, program an exposure plan called focus. Set it to 1 sec exposure at ISO1600 and a 5 - 10 second pause in between. Press start and after the first image comes up on the preview, zoom in on a bright star and turn the focus wheel on your scope a little bit. Wait for the next exposure to be taken and shown in preview. Compare the star to the last frame. If the focus is better, good, give the wheel another little turn. If it's worse, turn the focus wheel the other way and try again.

With either of these methods you can put the FWHM box on the screen and drag it over your star to measure the star size. Turn the focus wheel on the scope until the FWHM value is the lowest you can get.

Focus is the most important thing to get right. Most other things you can fix in post processing, but if you are out of focus, you are stuffed.

Take your time and you'll get there in the end.

[Catweazel]

That's a pretty comprehensive answer

Thanks Rik for taking the time to do that; it's much appreciated. I will have a go again next time we get any clear skies; we may be waiting some time by the look of things

CW

[RikM]

No Problem

A Bahtinov mask is great help as well. You can even make one from a bit of card if you want. There are plenty of sites with templates you can print or a laser cut nice one can be had from FLO for about £15. Worth every penny in my experience.

[Catweazel]

No Problem

A Bahtinov mask is great help as well. You can even make one from a bit of card if you want. There are plenty of sites with templates you can print or a laser cut nice one can be had from FLO for about £15. Worth every penny in my experience.

OK Rik, thanks. Will look into bahtinov masks if I have problems.

[malc-c]

The masks make all the difference, easy to use, more so I guess with live view. I tend to look through the camera and move the focuser until the star is a small dot in the viewfinder, then (as my 400D doesn't have liveview) take an image to see if the center line is above or below the intersection of the other two lines... move the focus slightly then repeat the process until the pattern is corerct signifying correct focus

[Javert]

I've got an Explorer 200P on an EQ5 mount and have been doing some basic untracked AP over the last couple of months with my 550D. Nothing fancy, but I've just rec'd a cheque for a tax refund and am thinking of buying the GOTO upgrade.

Is this going to be ok on the EQ5 with the 200P? I know people have said it's going to be pushing the limit's of what the EQ5 can do, but after seeing what Quatermass has been doing, I'm thinking of giving it a go. Even my wife has said it's ok for me to buy it!

Would the GOTO offer any benefits over the standard dual axis motors (other than the obvious slewing to objects automatically). Am I correct in thinking it has a port for guiding too?

Also, would I need a PC for any reason to use the GOTO, as I only have a Mac. The Sky-Watcher website doesn't really say anything but I am able to download the upgrade for the handset, but I don't know how you actually perform the upgrade.

Finally (sorry) I know the GOTO requires power. Can this be straight from a plug / extension socket or would I need to buy a portable power supply?

I know a completely new mount would be the thing to go for, but that's not an option unfortunately. The tax refund would just cover the cost of the GOTO upgrade.

[Catweazel]

Hi folks, I have another update for you:

I just tried with replacement focuser, and this time I got the camera to focus on the Moon via the viewfinder. I set it on ISO 800, and just took a 1 second exposure. It took a picture of the Moon Does this mean that I have cracked the focusing issue?

With that hurdle hopefully out of the way, I now have a very bright photo of the moon that looks like half a car headlight. I tried to adjust the exposure compensation, but it seems that I can only do this with a lens attached? so I am guessing that this is not the way to get a darker picture via the 200P! So, what ISO, aperture & shutter speed would you use to get a less bright picture of the Moon? Or is there something else I'm missing?

Thanks CW

[malc-c]

I've got an Explorer 200P on an EQ5 mount and have been doing some basic untracked AP over the last couple of months with my 550D. Nothing fancy, but I've just rec'd a cheque for a tax refund and am thinking of buying the GOTO upgrade.

Is this going to be ok on the EQ5 with the 200P? I know people have said it's going to be pushing the limit's of what the EQ5 can do, but after seeing what Quatermass has been doing, I'm thinking of giving it a go. Even my wife has said it's ok for me to buy it!

It all depends on where you are, I mean how good your skies are, how well you polar align. Most people would suggest the HEQ5 mount, but QM has proved that the EQ5 is quite capable of getting excellent results

Would the GOTO offer any benefits over the standard dual axis motors (other than the obvious slewing to objects automatically). Am I correct in thinking it has a port for guiding too?

Yes you are correct, it has a built in ST4 guide port. IMO the goto has lots of benefits over the bog standard dual axis kit. Faster slewing between targets, built in database of objects, and if you want to use EQASCOM with a laptop, can be easily connected either via the handset with a serial cable, or direct to the EQ box (replacing the handset) with an EQDIRECT cable or EQDIR box

Also, would I need a PC for any reason to use the GOTO, as I only have a Mac. The Sky-Watcher website doesn't really say anything but I am able to download the upgrade for the handset, but I don't know how you actually perform the upgrade.

I think there is an EQMAC project, but not 100% sure how developed it is. I've never used the guide port with just the handset so can't really comment how well this works or how to set it up. However the software of choice (PHD) is available for the MAC.

Finally (sorry) I know the GOTO requires power. Can this be straight from a plug / extension socket or would I need to buy a portable power supply?

I know a completely new mount would be the thing to go for, but that's not an option unfortunately. The tax refund would just cover the cost of the GOTO upgrade.

Yes the goto option requires a 12v supply capable of delivering a constant 2amps. If you are planning on taking your scope to a datk site then you would need one of those power pack / jump start units from Maplin. Ideally a 17 amp/hour, which would be around £30 - £50. If you observe from your garden then you could used a mains lead to supply the 12v power adapter provided you use a good quality RCD unit - mains and dew don't mix !

[malc-c]

Hi folks, I have another update for you:

I just tried with replacement focuser, and this time I got the camera to focus on the Moon via the viewfinder. I set it on ISO 800, and just took a 1 second exposure. It took a picture of the Moon Does this mean that I have cracked the focusing issue?

With that hurdle hopefully out of the way, I now have a very bright photo of the moon that looks like half a car headlight. I tried to adjust the exposure compensation, but it seems that I can only do this with a lens attached? so I am guessing that this is not the way to get a darker picture via the 200P! So, what ISO, aperture & shutter speed would you use to get a less bright picture of the Moon? Or is there something else I'm missing?

Thanks CW

Getting there...

I've used exposures from 1/1000th to 1/250th of a second at 800 ISO, depending on the phase and time of day. Best way is to use APT to control the camera - the camera settings are bottom right of the window - select 1/500th with 800 ISO - take a shot and see how it looks on the screen - if it's too dark then bracket down to 1/250th, or 1/100th - if it's too bright go the other way. - It's digital so you can take as may images as you like at different exposures until you get the one you like and then delete all the others

[RikM]

Getting there...

I've used exposures from 1/1000th to 1/250th of a second at 800 ISO, depending on the phase and time of day. Best way is to use APT to control the camera - the camera settings are bottom right of the window - select 1/500th with 800 ISO - take a shot and see how it looks on the screen - if it's too dark then bracket down to 1/250th, or 1/100th - if it's too bright go the other way. - It's digital so you can take as may images as you like at different exposures until you get the one you like and then delete all the others

I do it the exact same way and with about the same settings.

Some folks say to take a longer exposure at lower ISO but that just leaves me with a mushy image from the seeing. I find a higher ISO and shorter exposure gives a sharper image. I normally take a bunch of them and run them through Registax.

[Catweazel]

Ok, thanks guys. I will give those settings a try in APT, and play with it until I get a result. I haven't used Registrax, but will do that once I know I can get a decent image using APT

[Javert]

Thanks malc-c. I think the GOTO Upgrade is pretty much sold then. Will wait for my tax refund cheque to clear then look to order one from FLO.

[Javert]

Just been checking and it doesn't look like the Sky-Watcher GoTo handset can have a Flash upgrade from a Mac. Have managed to download the installer but it won't run on my iMac. Looks like it must be PC only, unless anyone else knows otherwise.

Might have to spend my tax rebate on a PS Vita instead ! (or maybe the dual axis motors, Televue x4 or x5 Barlow and an Orion Starshoot IV webcam)

[Catweazel]

Well, well...I just managed to take this on the 200P on EQ5

Not a DSO, obviously, but a step in the right direction, and I got it to focus. Settings were ISO 100, 1/100, using Canon 1000D camera with a remote shutter cable. I'm well pleased, so thanks for all of you help everyone CW

[RikM]

Magic shot CW well done for sticking with it.

[Catweazel]

Magic shot CW well done for sticking with it.

Thanks Rik, I took about 40 shots of it and I reckon this is the best one. It's just clouded over here, so might not get another chance tonight :)

[AstroMum]

Well, well...I just managed to take this on the 200P on EQ5

Not a DSO, obviously, but a step in the right direction, and I got it to focus. Settings were ISO 100, 1/100, using Canon 1000D camera with a remote shutter cable. I'm well pleased, so thanks for all of you help everyone CW

Very nice indeed! You make me want to go out and photograph it again myself!