Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

DIY all-sky cam?


msinclairinork

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 509
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Looks like tonight is a clear night, I will be testing it by taking a timelapse of the night. However I will not go to bed at 3am like his morning.... damn, this astro thing can be addictive.

No wonder I got no time to work on the Mustang :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So my first timelapse, day time.

I know it's only 5 seconds long...

Took slightly over one hour of capturing pictures every 30 seconds.

Will have to do more reading on how to do this properly, this is the first time ever I do it.

Things I need to do now that I know it works is to buy that expensive proper fish-eye M12 lens, cost is around £40.

Is my low cost box up to the task compare to a proper all-sky camera, I think it does the job ok.

It will be used to check for cloud cover and to do the occasional video streaming / timelapse video / odd pictures here and there.

fun in making it: 10/10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just started a 6 hours capture....

 

here's one shot from the Raspberry PI NoIR camera:

normal_day_lapse0001.jpg

Just realised the naming my file, day_lapse ..... doh, it's night time. Oh well, can't be bothered to start again. lol

Looking out through my roof window, I can't see that many stars. It's still a bit cloudy and with London's light pollution... not much fun.

But got to say, with a 1 sec exposure time (that's the max this camera can do) it's OK :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have now managed to upload the video, here it is:

(don't mind the end of the video, early morning, too much exposure = censor washed out.

Do I see stars? checked

Do I see moving clouds? checked

Is it a success: yes it is :D

Waiting for a few more sensors to turn up so that I can finish this box as the weather station too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, so I've got my QHY5 working as an all sky camera. I'm using PHD2 as my viewer, cos it looks as if it subtracts darks from the display, not just the processed images like PHD1.

This is ongoing tonight, two instances of PHD 2.3.0 and Maxim.

H

post-6754-0-33897300-1406066525_thumb.jp

post-6754-0-99284200-1406066529_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FireCapture will use dark frames too, whilst HandyAVI has a better capture method but it will not utilise dark frames. I had an email discussion with the author of HandyAVI a couple of months ago and he said he was going to modifiy the program to use dark frames but I've heard nothing since.

ChrisH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one concern I've not been able to resolve for a largely home-built all-sky cam made using, say, a QHY5. is what to do about the Sun.  "Proper" cameras have an auto-iris system as I understand it.  Cameras without are going to be focusing a lot of bright light onto a small area of the sensor during the day and probably doing it no good at all unless there's some other solution.  Anyone have any clever ideas?

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Anyone have any clever ideas?

Arduino, light sensor, stepper motor.

When the Arduino detects it's daytime it rotates the camera (which is connected to the stepper) 90° to the north.

So long as the electronics inside the dome doesn't cook, and there's space, it should be OK.

Plan B would be to rotate a crescent shaped shade to cover the sensor. That could be either inside or outside the dome.

Plan C would rotate the whole sky-cam assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some interesting ideas there :)

Oh dear, so much to do so little energy... :D  Can't do everything at once anyway.   And I've got the roll off roof to automate too...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, burns on the sensor are worrying me, think it might be a cover manually placed over the camera when not observing, till I come up with a better, automated, solution, that is.

H

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blurb says the NanoMuscle is only really suitable for intermittent loads whereas we want the shutter to operate and stay operated until the sun goes in.  Very interesting though :)

I think an electromagnetic actuator would work though - doesn't take much to operate a shutter.  eg. Magnet, coil and spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would a small solar panel, say 4" x 3" generate enough juice to move a servo? I haven't used servos before so not sure. Is there any space in the dome for it? Maplin do small solar kits for kids that have them although the one I have contains a small DC motor not a servo.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/6-in-1-educational-solar-kit-a86jr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of these Gina, It's not the same one that SBIG use, they use the MUCH more expensive lens, but this is ok. :http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/optical_devices/security/fish-eye/vari-focal/yv22x14a-2/

As to power for an actuator, I've got 12v feeding the dome for the anti dew, so I don't need the solar cell, just a light sensor to switch the shutter on and off, the anti dew could come on when the shutter is open, off when shutter closed, that would be quite neat.

H

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of these Gina, It's not the same one that SBIG use, they use the MUCH more expensive lens, but this is ok. :http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/optical_devices/security/fish-eye/vari-focal/yv22x14a-2/

As to power for an actuator, I've got 12v feeding the dome for the anti dew, so I don't need the solar cell, just a light sensor to switch the shutter on and off, the anti dew could come on when the shutter is open, off when shutter closed, that would be quite neat.

H

Thanks :)  That doesn't look cheap :eek:   How much was it and where can you get it in the UK?  I was thinking more in terms of a CCTV camera lens.

One advantage of using a photovoltaic cell to drive an actuator for the shutter is that it would still work in a power cut or if the power connection should somehow fail.  I think the sort that power garden lights might do.  That would need an actuator that would operate with current applied and return to the shutter open position when the current dropped off.  Something like the mechanism in an analogue meter was what I had in mind.  I guess you could adapt an old meter - choose a robust one preferably.  Of course a DIY expert could make their own using a rare earth magnet and a coil of wire with a light spring for return.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.