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kalasinman

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kalasinman last won the day on October 4 2014

kalasinman had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Thai culture, gardening, F1, MotoGP, photgraphy, astronomy, hifi.
  • Location
    N.E. Thailand

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  1. D5100 back from Baader mod, Pentax 200mm 67 too!

    1. xtreemchaos

      xtreemchaos

      cooking with gas now mate...

  2. There seems to be significant differences as to what settings should be. First time I tried AT with settings from the LV tutorial, it failed. It snapped the pic using BYN, but wouldn't solve. Then the long cloudy period started. In the mean time I discovered I pre-maturely deleted some index files which may have caused the failure to solve. Attached are screen shots of my settings page and those recommended to me by Geof on the AT forum. As I first tried As I have currently As Geof from the forum has for his (not same scope). My understanding is that having scale refinement at .1 then doing an initial solve, AT will update the entries to the proper settings for the actual capture, and then "save settings" and then ok for the future. Your thoughts?--Jack
  3. You need the premium version of BYEOS/BYN. Then go to settings and in the "3rd party integration" box tick "enable TCP server" then reboot. In AT the settings for camera must be BYEOS.
  4. Cloudy for months, can't be the UK at 34c...;-)

    1. xtreemchaos

      xtreemchaos

      not here mate,it felt like winter here yesterday"without the dark skys",todays a bit better

  5. Cloudy for months, can't be the UK at 34c...;-)

  6. 4 months with 2 usable nights in Thailand.
  7. Louise, by my figures (always suspect ;-) ) an Orion TOAG and your drawer would put you at 70.5mm with your Canon. Listed backfocus is 70mm. You might have to add a C extension in front of your guide cam to get parfocal.
  8. Yes , this seems to be the solution This CC will screw directly into a TOAG. As this eliminates a 2mm T-ring, total backfocus now 66mm. In my case I needed an 8mm spacer to get the Nikon and QHY5L-II mono parfocal, but this still gives 66mm. BTW my Nikon camera adapter is only 1mm and fits very nicely. I have no interest in using a filter wheel with a DSLR, but with eliminating the 8mm spacer for the wheel, it could fit? What about vignetting, Louise?
  9. I have a similar satup If I use my current train and insert the MKII between the front of my parfocl spacer (8mm plus 1mm t-adapter) and the back of the TOAG I get 55.5mm.
  10. Mike, I just re-read the info on the Baader MkIII. I says it extends focal distance by 10mm. The Orion TOAG is 10.5mm so seems like your in the ballpark. Right?
  11. If you have a Baader MkII that's all you need. I believe it will screw to the nosepiece of the t-ting and then drop right in the eyepiece tube of the focuser. I figured my focal distance using calibration marks on my focuser body.
  12. The flange to focal plane distance of a Nikon is 46.5mm as opposed to a Canon at 44mm, thus it may make the use of a thin OAG more important. I doubt there is a perfect off the shelf solution. The Baader Mark II MPCC has no net effect on FL. If your OTA has a low profile focuser you may be ok. I had to cut 15mm off my OTA and move the mirror up to get focus. Easy enough. Some folks get by running the cell adjustment all the way forward. YMMV
  13. Don't worry about that. When it is calibrated the lines turn green and center on the star again.
  14. The major long waves on my guide chart above were 100% caused by a mechanical problem that I caused. The guide motors are interchangeable, so stupid me I assumed the worms were as well. Wrong!. Tech support caught is and all that is gone now. Still a rough looking graph , but seeing has been so hazy that by 10 pm the only lights visible in the sky are Jupiter and Sirius. Best SNR I can manage right now is 4-5, so I don't think I'll have useful guiding or imaging until I have decent seeing. When a hole in the haze passes by it seems to guide under 2"rms, but only briefly before seeing closes out again. Obviously no fine tuning possible. With my mount, 1x is the only choice that gives a useful result. I think the start with .5x and work your way around to your best result strategy is wise for other mounts, however. I'm finding if I adjust the exposure length to the longest which will hold the star, then let it settle. I then make cautious adjustments from there, waiting a few minutes and then evaluating the graph, that this approach works pretty well. I believe only one correction per exposure can be made. If the speed is too low, the trace may run away and back because of under correction, if too fast it may be choppy from excess corrections. I'm just learning.
  15. Email from Tech support may have solved this. A mechanical issue. Post a graph if I ever see the stars again.
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