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Observatory Build Underway


malc-c

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Thanks for the comments guys.

Sy,

Yes there's a hole in the centre, so the mount is secured in exactly the same way as with the tripod. I could use a normal 10mm stanless steel bolt, but I'll be ordering one of those knob upgrade kits soon. I also have a 25mm M6 hex spacer coming that screws into a tapped hole to allow the fine azimuth polar adjustment.

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OK Sickbag at the ready :rolleyes:

I've just finished painting the pier...... so here it is :p

Looks great:icon_salut::)

Nice to have a bit of individuality...

You just need to get all the OTA screws,bolts,dovetail done now to match......:icon_eek:

Wayne

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You just need to get all the OTA screws,bolts,dovetail done now to match......:)

Wayne

LOL - now you've given me some ideas.. screws and bolts would be hard (unless they're painted) but a purple dovetail... yum :icon_eek:

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Ali U channel arrived today, and the wheels from screwfix are a nice fit. I'm hoping the rain will stay away long enough at the weekend for me to get this sorted... can't wait to see how well the roof rolls :)

I've also contacted our insurance company to see if the scope will be covered under our current household policy, and was pleased to find out that I am and covered up to £2000 :icon_eek:

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That's good :):icon_eek:

A question going back a bit Malcolm... I think you said you used coach bolts to join your frames together - what size did you use? My studding will be 3x2 and I'm looking at M10x150 but wondering if M8s would be thick enough. It's not the strength but the possibility of the heads sinking into the wood. An alternative would be nuts and bolts with large washers.

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Gina, from memory I think they were M10 x 60mm, and as I'm going to line the inside walls wasn't bothered about washers or the heads biting into the wood. I pre-drilled the studs so as not to split them, and then used a socket wrench to wind them in. I used two per joint, backed up with 60mm dry lining screws every 8". If you are planning on buying any metalwork like threaded studs, nuts washers etc then screwfix is cheaper.

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Gina, from memory I think they were M10 x 60mm, and as I'm going to line the inside walls wasn't bothered about washers or the heads biting into the wood. I pre-drilled the studs so as not to split them, and then used a socket wrench to wind them in. I used two per joint, backed up with 60mm dry lining screws every 8". If you are planning on buying any metalwork like threaded studs, nuts washers etc then screwfix is cheaper.
Yes, I'm looking at Screwfix for bolts although a local farm hardware shop has them only slightly more. Wickes OTOH are 3x the price or more.
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Arrrr ! ruddy weather !!

It's been sunny spells with broken white clouds for best part of the day (whilst I've been at work !)... fantastic, should be able to make a start on the roof when I get home I thought !

Arrived home to find all the timber in the hallway so after something to eat, with nice clear sky (only the odd white cloud) I removed the tarp and started to fix the shiplap to the studwork with my new toy - a nail gun :):icon_eek:

Everything was going well until we had reached the height of the drop side on the south wall... the sky was getting very dark and there were menacing clouds approaching... it was all hands on deck as we rigged up the tarp to provide some cover whilst I continued to fix the last few short lengths and then give it all a coat of creosote just in case the wind changes and the rain drives on from the south.. I've also miss-calculated the number of lengths I need, I worked it out to be 16 lengths to cover the height, its actually 18... so I'm back to the merchants in the morning to get another half dozen lengths before continuing under the covers !!

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Edited by malc-c
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Hi Malc,

Got a question - sorry if its here on the thread somewhere, just cant see it. Which way does your roof slide off i.e. E-W or S-N? Im developing my second design based on a ROR and just wondered what you did.

Cheers

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Yes, the real good old fashion creosote is now banned from sale (use?) in the UK. Mind you this creocote stuff still gives off a smell...

Anyway, it's done now so there is no going back now !

Been a busy day, was up at 3.30am due to that ruddy rain keeping me awake, and down to B&Q at 7.00 to pick up a few things, and started working at 8.00am as the rain had left off and it actually became a nice day. Set too on the rest of the cladding, but then decided to get the roof covered. I got as far as fitting the 12mm OSB boards (which by chance didn't need cutting :) ) and covering it with good quality felt (15 years G'tee which for two 8M rolls cost me £60 ! ) before the wind picked up and some threatening rain clouds came on the scene. Armed with as many hands as we could muster the roof was placed back up on the frame before we covered the building with the tarp.

So that just leaves the last side to clad, warm roof to build and fit, make the door to fit the opening and then finish off the trimmings of the roof, fitting the rails and rollers and getting the thing water tight. Then the fun begins in fitting out the electrics, lining the warm room walls and ceiling and... and... the list of tasks go on and on, but I'm having fun :icon_eek:

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Hi Malc,

Got a question - sorry if its here on the thread somewhere, just cant see it. Which way does your roof slide off i.e. E-W or S-N? Im developing my second design based on a ROR and just wondered what you did.

Cheers

Hi, The roof rolls off (or will roll when I fit the wheels :) ) towards NNE more or less.

post-23388-133877616893_thumb.jpg

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What size timbers are you using for your roof frames, Malcolm? I think you said somewhere but I think you changed your design. I'm using OSB now though with a pent roof. I'm just wondering if 3x2 would be sufficient or whether to go for 4x2.

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Gina,

I've used 38mm x 63mm studwork for the apex and will be using the same for the pent roof. The pent roof will have framework spaced at 16" centres with noggins through to brace them. 12mm OSB sheeting forms the covering on the outside, and will be using 3.6mm ply for lining on the inside once insulation has been fitted.

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Gina,

I've used 38mm x 63mm studwork for the apex and will be using the same for the pent roof. The pent roof will have framework spaced at 16" centres with noggins through to brace them. 12mm OSB sheeting forms the covering on the outside, and will be using 3.6mm ply for lining on the inside once insulation has been fitted.

Thanks :)

Been looking up slopes for pent/flat roofs. In their info sheet, Wickes quote 1 in 80 as minimum slope for a felt covered "flat" roof, with 1 in 40 recommended for new builds. So it looks like I could get away with a lot less than the 1 in 12 I've designed - say 1 in 20. I just wondered what slope you're using on your pent roof for your warm room.

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