Observatory Build Underway

[Astrokev]

Thanks. All being noted down for when I eventually plan my own!

[malc-c]

Well, slight change of plan.... I've given up on the nested apex roof design. Having fabricated the trusses for the ROR section it was obvious that this would be a very weak roof as the end that would need to roll over the fixed roof would be so unsupported. Also I'm running out of decent true lengths of studding (around 15% are warped so will be returning them to Wickes for exchange or refund), so I've chosen to drop the rear wall by an inch or two and form a pent roof section for the warm room. This will also help solve the issue of guttering for the warm room.

I'll post up some more pictures later

[martin_h]

If anyone is interested this is how I sealed the gap between my sliding roof and fixed roof...heavy duty rubber flooring (ebay) as you open the roof it curles under and as you close it - it pulls back out to make a seal...also it runs off the water from the higher roof to the lower and into the gutter. The lower roof has a 1" lip around the edges to stop water blowing off the sides and also to channel it down the slope.

There is only a 3" gap between the top of the lower roof and the underside of the upper roof.

(the bird poo came free with the shed)

[Gina]

Here a rough diagram of how I plan to seal mine. I'm going to use corrugated bitumen sheets with the edge turned over and fastened down to the woodwork. By having a high barge board on the warm room roof the roll off part can butt up against it. Not sure how good a seal that will give - might need a brush type draught excluder as well.

[malc-c]

Small update for all those that have been following this thread.

Still need to do some additional bracing on the ROR - it's solid, but several people all suggested that when it snowed the roof might not hold the weight !! Also need to complete the warm room roof too.

I've also completed the drop down side wall to give me decent viewing to the south

Edited June 4, 2011 by malc-c

[Gina]

Coming on nicely Malcolm

[msinclairinork]

Looks great Malcolm!

Very well crafted!

Keep up the good work, you will be moving in soon!

Michael

[pritc]

I have not been on the forum for a while Malcolm......(work)

Just came across your build for the first time!!

Wow!! Great build

Shame to hear about the warped Wickes studwork.I collected my studwork myself so I hand picked the lot.....

I see you have some concerns about the framework structure not being rigid enough??

When you add the external cladding,believe me it will be rock solid:D.

As for the roof you need to add some horizontal braces to the apex studs to brace it.

A few people had concerns about my own roof build with snow.

My roof had 18 inches of snow this winter for several weeks with no problems.(I knew it would be fine )

Keep up the photo's...

Wayne

[malc-c]

Thanks for the encouragement Wayne, and it was your build that inspired mine.

When you say apex bracing, I take it you mean to form tri-angles rather than V's for the trusses - I've used nail plates either side as well as screws to secure the trusses and I can hang by my arms from the ridge rail - nothing moves !

Bit dissapointed today - most of the preservative I applied yesterday has been washed off as it didn't have time to dry before we had the start of the rain.. they forcast showers.. we've had almost 10 hours of soild down pour and I didn't have a tarp to cover it in time.... hope the flooring holds up. It's covered now, but it was more like a paddling pool at 6 am this morning !!

[Stardust]

you are making a great job of that, I like it alot.

[Gina]

We had quite a lot of rain overnight too. I don't know exactly how much as my rain gauge isn't working - I caught the cable in the rotavator

[pritc]

"I can hang by my arms from the ridge rail - nothing moves !"

LOL....

Great minds think alike!!

That is exactly what I did to check the strength of my roof.

If it can hold my 14 1/2 stone then it will hold a bit of snow I thought...

The rain is always a pain......

I painted my studwork as I went.Sometimes I carried it into the kitchen to paint (The wife was not to happy ).

B.T.W.

Can you let me know on the size of the Aluminium U channel you use for your 50mm castor's.

I might have to copy you to upgrade from my L channel.

If my ROR rolls slightly askew,the nuts and bolts of the castor's catch on my L channel...

Wayne

[Gina]

Yes, I'm going for aluminium channel as well. I was going to use steel angle but stopping the wheels rolling off the unflanged side would make things more complicated. In fact the aluminium channel isn't that expensive compared with the overall cost.

[malc-c]

Wayne,

I've ordered 1" x 1/2" channel (1/8th" thick). The nuts on the axle are approx 3/4" from the edge of the wheel so should clear it, but still have enough height to retain the wheels.

I'm hoping that now the tarp is up and I've mopped up the puddles it will dry out enough for me to paint the floor with something better than the woodcare fence treatment I thought would do the job. The thought of trying to detach the framing and having to replace the flooring isn't something I really want to contemplate. It is exterior grade, but even so I'm sure it won't be long before the ply starts separating if I left it sitting in water.

Just about to order the feather edge and ply for the roof's and warm room lining... I'm hoping the weekend will remain dry enough for me to get the walls clad and roof covered and as water tight as I can barring the finishing seals.

I've also had a result in getting my pier head anodized... £15 in purple At least if it is still wet I can be getting on with something - mixing concrete

Edited June 6, 2011 by malc-c

[Gina]

I still have plenty of floor varnish from doing the floor of the porch I added to the house. I used PTG flooring for that (2.3m x 4m). I would definitely use something to waterproof the flooring. You have a good point and I thank you for reminding me to do that BEFORE I lay the flooring.

[pritc]

Thanks for the U channel measurement.

Even though my obs/warm room is finished & in constant use (Weather permitting) I always think of improvements or little tweaks.

ROR Pulley or motorised system is in my thoughts for the next upgrade.

As you are probably aware from my own build thread.

I used good old Creosote to waterproof my flooring.

When it rained the floor looked like a wet, well waxed car body.

On completion of my build.I lined the floor with thin hardboard so I could lay my flooring with carpet spray adhesive.

Wayne

[pritc]

Quick question.

What size pipework did you use for the warmroom to obs trunking??

Mine is filling up quick!!

So far:Stellarium operated GOTO cable/Serial port to USB cable/Parallel port cable/Auto focusser cable/USB cable.

And when I finally get a Canon DSLR camera!!!!

Wayne

[malc-c]

I've used normal 1" overflow waste pipe x 2 for the ducting, but as I have a suspended floor I can always drag through more cables if required, and as the area around the pillar has a removable access hatch fitting more cables shouldn't be a problem.

What thickness of ply did you used for the roof ? - I'm thinking 6mm ?

Just been pricing up the cladding... I really would like T&G shiplap, but I'm looking at £400 to clad the obsy... but that's only £150 more than feather egde board, and T&G would look nicer and would give a better result... and I guess if you are going to do a job it's worth doing well....

[Gina]

For a bit more cost you could use UPVC shiplap (as long as you don't mind white). I used that on the end of my back porch. The side that faces the worst weather.

[pritc]

What thickness of ply did you used for the roof ? - I'm thinking 6mm ?

I used 12mm OSB board for the roof.

With a coat of cold bitumen adhesive before laying the felt.

6mm ply does not have much rigidity and it might sag inbetween the braces plus the standard felt nails (around 12mm)will show through on the underside

T&G shiplap is the way to go for the cladding.

Feather edge warps and gaps appear everywhere.

Just have a look at feather edge sheds at DIY stores.

It cost me around £360 to do mine.The major cost of my build.

But I am glad I used T&G shiplap.

Wayne

[Gina]

I used 12mm OSB board for the roof.

With a coat of cold bitumen adhesive before laying the felt.

Did you find any problem laying the felt? And what grade of felt did you use? I'm having second thoughts about using corrugated bitumen for my roofs. It needs a lot of slope - felt doesn't.

6mm ply does not have much rigidity and it might sag inbetween the braces plus the standard felt nails (around 12mm)will show through on the underside

Yes, you'd need plenty of purlins to stop sag and to nail into.

T&G shiplap is the way to go for the cladding.

Feather edge warps and gaps appear everywhere.

Just have a look at feather edge sheds at DIY stores.

I used some feather edge fencing to make a woodshed - dreadful stuff - all gaps now and the weather blows in! Did you consider plywood Wayne? Or was the improved appearance of shiplap the major factor?

[malc-c]

I used some feather edge fencing to make a woodshed - dreadful stuff - all gaps now and the weather blows in!

Maybe that's why it's been offered for half the price of the shiplap. Thanks for the heads up... Oh and I'll order some 12mm ply for the roof, can't stand the look of OSB

[pritc]

Did you find any problem laying the felt? And what grade of felt did you use?

Did you consider plywood Wayne? Or was the improved appearance of shiplap the major factor?

I had looked into corrugated bitumen for my roof but could not find a decent way to seal out the elements between my obs and warm room.

No problems encountered laying my felt.

I used premium grade shed felt.

Double the price,but it has a 15 year guarantee.

Whereas the standard felt only has a 5 year guarantee.........

Never considered plywood for cladding.

I strived for that basic 'Shed' look to stop prying eyes!!

Until I started observing the Sun recently,I do not think the neighbours even knew what was inside....

Wayne

[pritc]

Maybe that's why it's been offered for half the price of the shiplap. Thanks for the heads up... Oh and I'll order some 12mm ply for the roof, can't stand the look of OSB

It's ugly to look at, but it is cheaper.

Once the underside is painted you can hardly tell,Plus when I am in the obs the ROR roof is open.

As for my warm room I insulated the roof with poly slabs and a skin of hardboard.......

Wayne

[malc-c]

Yeah - I guess when you come to think of it the warm room will be covered in felt on one side and insulation on the other.... And I'll be recouping some of the cost the shiplap is costing me...

One final question for tonight... did you nail your shiplap through the boards, or do that trick of invisible fixing through the tongue and if so what trpe of nails did you use ?