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astro_al

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astro_al last won the day on December 22 2018

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About astro_al

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  1. 3KG as pictured. This includes a 1KG weight. Bare tube is 1.3KG according to Takahashi Europe http://www.takahashi-europe.com/en/FS-60CB.specifications.php
  2. I use the 2" Baader Herschel wedge. This requires a very specific configuration to work in some of my Taks with my binoviewers. It needs the Baader Clicklock instead of the Tak visual back and then a 2" to T2 adapter on the Herschel wedge to connect a bayonet fitting for the binoviewers instead of the standard 2" Clicklock fitting. On top of that it needs the top filter cell in the wedge to be empty to accommodate the length of the 2.6x GPC. It works with a few mm to spare in the FC-76 DC, FC-100DC and in the FS-60.
  3. As long as you have the correct adapter
  4. It does Dave. I have an AZ-EQ6 on a permanent pier at the bottom of the garden which handles it nicely. I have to be careful to lift it into the saddle vertically though and to keep it close to my body, otherwise my back is unhappy. Here is a picture of the FS-152 mounted and next to the FC-76. Just shows what doubling the diameter of a refractor’s aperture comes with. I am mostly enjoying using the FC-100 at the moment. Great grab and go option and light as a feather in comparison to the 152.
  5. Sorry to hear that your experience mirrors my own. I have been missing my Ha viewing since my Quarks went back. Great customer service from FLO but I won't ever try another. If I have the funds at some point I will probably get either a front-mounted etalon or a dedicated Lunt scope.
  6. Good to know, but any future astro funds will be going towards a Ha solution. Since the Quark(s) went back I am missing that aspect of the hobby quite a bit. I do already have an adapter for the FS-60 to an SM60 (not sure why) so maybe that is a potential avenue to explore.
  7. A question to ZWO ADC owners please. Step 1 in the manual says "Tighten the centre marker at 'the zero position'". Is the zero position absolute and indicated with an indent in the ADC body or similar? I was planning on removing the nosepiece and screwing directly to a T2 diagonal, but if the zero position is absolute then I will need to introduce something that allows the whole ADC unit to rotate. If the zero position is relative and the critical part is moving the adjustment levers from zero relative to the horizon, then presumably I can just loosen the centre marker and rotate the ring to the set zero position parallel to the horizon? Thanks.
  8. That's a nice thought but if anything I should be going the other way and reducing the collection!
  9. Thanks @JeremyS Top one is the FS-152.
  10. Tube arrived at the weekend so I was finally able to assemble an FS-60 from a focuser I already had and an objective and dewshield purchased from a nice chap on UKABS. Had an FS-60 about 8 years ago, nice to have one again. Pictured at the front with the rest of the gang
  11. Makes sense Mark, thanks. My biggest scope is 6" and I have to mount that on a pier in my back garden from where the view south is a bit obstructed. This means that the planets need to be higher to be seen, which is why at the moment I go out the front with a grab and go setup from where I can see to a lower altitude. Small scopes for low altitude planetary viewing out the front, and larger scope for higher altitude planetary viewing out the back. Maybe not much need for an ADC for me, although I will see how I get on with Mars with the bigger scope later in the year.
  12. Was that in your 8" dob @markse68? I was out with my 4" refractor and didn't see any colour smearing at about 140x. Are the effects of atmospheric dispersion more noticeable with larger scope due to their higher resolution?
  13. I had the exact same conversation with Es when he was servicing one of my scopes! I should really try one but I have the same concerns as some of the other members on this thread i.e. something else to faff with and I only use binoviewers so even more back focus required and more prisms in the optical chain. Edit: I also saw on the FLO website that the recommendation for the ZWO unit is to get the ADC as close to the eyepiece as possible, which I wouldn't be able to do with a binoviewer. Eye placement when using binoviewers is also key for me. If I am not dead on it is easy to introduce unwanted colour so I may be chasing that with an ADC also.
  14. That would certainly help us newbies. From reading posts on SolarChat it looks like Rupert at Astrograph used to check each Quark before sending it out to a customer. Astrograph now only appear to stock Solar Spectrum products though, which are a lot more expensive. I still like the concept of using one of these types of devices on an existing scope, but to @Solar B's point, the last time I used a barlow above 4x was when I was interested in planetary imaging so I can understand why some people see Quarks as an imaging tool. If my last Quark had worked out I am sure I would have ended up with a shorter FL scope to drop the magnification as I felt that 100x was a bit too much for my typical seeing conditions - but then I would be moving away from F30 (with the scope I had in mind). Starting again with a PST or a Lunt LS50 wouldn't work for me as I am dependent on using binoviewers. Maybe a front-mounted etalon on an existing scope would be the way to go, but it would be a lot more expensive.
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