UKDiver

It's possible that he might not even get paid by the BBC for this program. I'm aware of another presenter who does not get paid as it would create 'a conflict of interest'. No idea why though.

Ah, but do they have the item in stock. Nothing I've asked about has been in.

Hopefully to your benefit. I couldn't find the EP on the site.ref SV190. Just found it. Looked ok to me.

I think that there are far too many subjects to consider for most newcomers to get it all sorted in their minds. Something will give.

Franklin makes an excellent point the concrete quality elsewhere in their constructions. Worth a very good look for other crumbling concrete if they used the same batch for other jobs.

That's the same place I had a problem John.

I can't now recall what made me want to remove the prism. It's not as if there was anything to put in its place. It may as well have been permanent. I have been considering the Baader route more in light of this hassle. I wondered how to join the Baader prism to the scope without using a 1.25" nosepiece as that would end up using the same Tak fitting.

It looks like you have about 80cm between the floors, that should be ample for drilling etc. It's not as if you need to swing a pickaxe or hammer to break a hole. The pier will obviously crumble with little help. A steel pier and steel bolted down base will be a better job. Might have to weld the pier to the base in place as I doubt it will go through the hole from underneath without breaking out the hole some. Your builder owes you big time for the hassle.

It's done now. No tears, but a little sad. Rubber grip gloves no help either in my case. Mechanical grip was a desperate last shot, my biggest concern was distorting something.

A combination of heat and, I wince to say it, direct use of mole grips, did the trick. Some scuff to the silvered wheel though. No grip with something between. No idea how it got so tight.

Exactly how the Kuala Lumpur Monorail was fixed.

I think I'm going to disagree there. 6' fence posts are far more slender, cheaply made yet support themselves. I also take it that the base is the larger section surrounded by polystyrene. I see multiple 12" columns with far more load than this pier will ever get close to, albeit only ever dead load and no torsion. I do agree with you that the repair is best done with more mass concrete and rebar joining the original base.

I did try a hair dryer, but may as well try the radiator for a while.

I'm currently struggling to separate the 1.25" eyepiece adapter from the Tak prism. It is gripped so tightly that the prism nose piece undoes instead. My hands are now rather raw from trying to grip and turn knurled metal, with rubber grips etc. Any idea how to grip and undo/separate these? Adrian

Never underestimate the existence of a sufficiently talented fool who does something no one else thought of.

Perhaps the pier was broken while removing the planks, even with the spacers. Whatever the reason, I hope the solution is simple.

Was the pier cast first prior to the separate observation deck? I'm wondering if it was simply knocked against while constructing the second deck, breaking the join between pier and foundation block. It would be quite vulnerable. The rebar would have helped, but it takes concrete about a week to develop about 75% of the specified strength at 28 days, but I think this would not be an issue in your case. I do wonder if the pier might be a bit slender for its height, exposing it to a knock and a fair lever length. It was getting dark, but tomorrow I'd have a look at the join at the base of the pier. If it's gone there, I think breaking it out and starting again will be the best solution. Roughen up the slab under the rebar too. Any reason not to have a steel bolted down pier?

How cold was it after the concrete was poured? Water is part of the chemical reaction that forms concrete, but if it freezes before the reaction (exothermic in inself) then the concrete will be cracked.

Ta. I got myself the small Tak finder, but I'm starting to regret that and not getting a small RACI instead. I wonder how many other mistakes I've made/will make! Currently struggling to undo the lock to remove the prism. Fun fun fun.

My brain and fingers were not properly engaged. I meant to ask about leaving the finder on, not eyepiece! If I ever develop Alzheimers, I wonder if anyone will tell.

Thank you Gary, Does the bag have room to keep the eyepiece mounted? Adrian

Being asked about what others can get me for the dreaded Christmas, the subject of storing kit in boxes or bags came up. Now I'm used to carrying dive kit in crates rather than bags, mainly for water retention in car boots. Bags leak and also tend to let kit get damaged as bags to get piled up a bit on boats. Big crates sheds are ideal. I think things are a little more nuanced with a scope. For a start, it will be kept indoors. I'm not at the grab and go stage, although the scope does currently site on the tripos in the conservatory. Not a long term domestically successful solution. I like the idea of boxes because they can be stacked and take knocks. Flip side, knocks indoors tend to mean paintwork damage or leg bruises. So softer bags seam ideal I note some have purpose build bags from astro-stores, others have bags used to move such things as lighting kit. While they can't be stacked, I'm tending towards such bags as they might encourage a little more delicacy of use. Scope is FC-100DC on Skytee2 on SW tripod. I think I'll want to find a lighter mount/tripod option in future, but for now I'd mainly be interested in bag/box for the scope and eye pieces. Tripod is secondary and I might try and find an old golf bag in second hand shops. Are there any other issues I should consider re bags or boxes? Adrian

I've bought them along with a couple of other makes/types/sizes from here and ABS to start to see what I like to look through. Although I think I don't yet know what I'll like. As for the weather...

A lot of the Svbony kit on their Amazon site is 20% off for Prime members/Black Friday deals. Including the scopes. I just ordered the 10mm and 18mm UFF for £120 the pair. Should be here tomorrow, far quicker than Aliexpress can do and just slightly cheaper. So it might be worth joining Prime for a year a £79 just to save £100 on a scope. If you think the scope is worth the price (I've no idea).

Currently there's a 42mm on ABS...