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About sn2006gy

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  1. Why would APP debayer dark frames though? That doesn't seem right. To be honest, I don't really dark calibrate myself. 2600 is so clean and I dither every frame for clearing up FPN/Hot pixels.
  2. Does APP have HDR Composition? In PI that's what I'd do for this particular topic.
  3. Did you have a light leak? My master dark with my 2600mc pro looks like this:
  4. I haven't really seen the tools change much - camera raw to remove flats if you didn't flat field and similar things are coming along nicely, but i guess the biggest advancement for me is just experience - getting better at processing "old" data.
  5. Great start! I had to go shorter subs with a slower scope but this doesn't look too bad. I did 350x45 seconds at F5 with a 2600mc pro.
  6. That came out great! One of the better images i've seen from that lens to be honest! A lot of times they seem over sharp or too softened to reduce stars, this shows the nebulosity, dust and stars great
  7. Open sourced the data: Rosette Nebula - OSC Narrowband Processing (rockchucksummit.com) feel free to download and share your own remix/reprocess!
  8. 67x300 Seconds on Triad - WBPP Integration with CFA (bayer drizzle) Split Channals R=Ha G+B = O 12x480 Seconds with Antlia S2 SuperPixel Debayer WBPP Integration Resampled to match Ha and Oiii SHO Integration with PixelMath More details on Astrobin. I plan on doing other updates/mixes and sharing the details on astrobin so be sure to follow along if you want to see more SHO with OSC cameras. https://astrob.in/w9etg0/0/
  9. If you leave the tilt plate on to screw into the 2600 with a m48 or m42 EFW, the backspace between camera and filter may be too much for the 36mm filters
  10. I use a 2600mc with an Esprit 120 and I use 2" filters with an EFW. The 2600 is the same body as the 6200 so it has the same connections available which means that everything is bolted on in the same ways. So whatever you see supported on the 6200, is the same for the 2600 on zwo's website. The 6200/2600 are fairly heavy cameras. In order to avoid sag, I use a setup like this. Esprit 120 -> Reducer -> 6200 Tilt Plate Bolted to -> OAG Bolted to -> EFW Bolted to -> 2600mc pro I would avoid anything that isn't bolted if you can, which means using 2" filters for now, but
  11. For my Pleiades I went with 100s of really short exposures. (45 seconds). I find with longer exposures you tend to lose the stars and the dust still comes through with shorter subs. Those 7 sisters are mega bright and long subs seem to cause them to bloat/get lost or surface halos
  12. I have the Esprit 120 and i have mine just in front of where yours is. Instead of behind the dewshield, just right in front of the dew shield screws. I found it worked well there. People swear by both, i'm not sure the dewnot has enough oomph to heat the entire lens cell but it seems to have enough power to keep it dry just in front of primary lens.
  13. For DSLR, you would really only worry about darks according to time. Time does reflect temperature since there will be a heat build up but chasing temperature would be impractical since the temperature increases over entire duration, not just the individual sub. If you have a cooled camera, obviously just cool to fixed temps
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