globular

Screwing the 2.6x into the nosepiece does result in the correct orientation. If you screw it into the binoviewer then it's pointing at your eye, not the sky. The 1.25x and 1.7x can, as you say, be reconfigured to work in either position - but the 2.6x has to go into the nosepiece (or diagonal if you're using one) and not the binoviewer.

You may have seen this from the baader binoviewer documantation: Baader's figures are not super accurate - but they give a good idea about how much extra focus movement you'll need. e.g. if you have 44mm of focus travel left when using an eyepiece on it's own, then it should work in the bino with the 2.6x gpc. See how much travel you have and them pick the lowest power GPC that is below that figure. The newt version gives a bit more travel than even the 2.6x GPC, and at less magnification - which can be useful. But if you can get it to work with one of your existing GPCs then I'd stick with that. I personally always use a GPC rather than a barlow with my MBII - they seems a little more 'invisible' to my eyes. p.s. the 2.6x GPC screws into baader nosepieces. They do 1.25" and 2" versions. So you go baader nosepiece, 2.6x GPC, binoviewer, eyepiece(s).

I do it quite a bit. ES92 12 in a 2" clicklock over a Pierro Astro ADC above a 2" 2x powermate (with T ring) in a 2" BBHS diagonal. (And all that at optimal back focus distance for the scope). The view is fantastic - but I don't let go 🤪

I might go Pentax XW 40mm, 16.5mm & 10mm, ES 92 12mm and Powermate 2x. That'll give me 53x, 106x, 130x, 178x, 213x, 260x, 356x, 427x Surely I'm allowed a Powermate if it's one of the 5? 😇

I measured the 2.6 at 2.70x in that position. Changing it's position adds 0.014 for each mm moved out. The 1.7 I measured at 1.44x. And it changes by 0.004 with each mm moved. I've seen others get slightly different results - but it's clear the 1.7 is badly badged and should be called 1.4 or 1.5. The others seem to operate closer to their claimed mag.

Starlink-97 (6-20) launched on Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 3:57 AM (UTC) 5 m S-SAR-02 launched on Tuesday, August 8, 2023 at 10:55 PM (UTC)

My SCT could focus with just about anything in the light train as the mirror can move a long way - but I find the sharpness gained by the ADC is lost again if you move the mirror too far from it's optimal back focus position. With my ADC I therefore use a T2 prism diagonal (good quality but short light path) with my Pierro Astro ADC (which has a shorter light path than some other ADCs) and this gives exactly the same back focus as my 2" BBHS prism without ADC. I can therefore switch between with and without ADC by simply changing the diagonal - and everything is kept bang on the optimal back focus for my scope - keeping the views as crisp as conditions allow. Your newt is different, of course, so you will probably need a barlow (maybe only a very weak one?) to reach focus. edit: I see you have a 3.5" spacer currently. Removing / reducing that should be enough to make room for an ADC without needing a barlow.

I find my ADC very beneficial on the planets - essential even, especially when they are low. I get much sharper focus and improved contrast. The bigger your aperture, the higher the magnification and the lower the planets are, the bigger the impact the ADC makes. They can be a faff to use when you first try them - but I wouldn't be without mine when I'm doing a long planetary session / sketching study.

Looks like a nice quick session

Meteoblue has some history. You can get day averages for free....here is an example... the yellow means clear... https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/historyclimate/weatherarchive/london_united-kingdom_2643743?fcstlength=1m&year=2022&month=12 But more than a year or so ago and/or hour by hour (to focus on nights) is subscription only.

I'm very interested too... can you do your exchanges here? Pretty please?

posts crossed.... I had a funny feeling... lol If it M60 then this will work.... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-clicklock-m60a-for-vixen.html but it's not cheap and adds a fair bit to the light path.

Result. I do recommend you double check the measurements before ordering. The 51mm you mention is almost certainly really 50.8mm (2") and while there is a 57mm astronomy thread (M57) there are also M56 in both 1mm and 0.75mm pitches. You have to get the right one or they won't screw on correctly. If in doubt - tell FLO what you are trying to couple together and they'll sort you out.

Presumably the 57mm opening is threaded? And you want to insert a 2" nosepiece that is on your coma corrector? You probably want something like this... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p4695_Borg-2--Adapter---7504---Adapter-from-M57-to-2--Receptacle.html or this... https://astrohutech.store/product/m57-to-2-compression-ring/

A similar scope on another suppliers website has been updated with "Please note - supplied with a Vixen format dovetail bar not a Losmandy style as pictured." Possibly the manufacturer has made a change without consulting the supplier(s)?

I binoview when picking out fine details at high magnification. Everything else looks better to my eye(s) when framed in a wide FOV EP - which just don't work in binoviewers. So I do a bit of both.

You could put two vertical notches in the adapter thread - directly opposite each other. You could then insert a metal ruler or similar spanning the two slots and sticking out further beyond the adapter too. The extra traction should see it come free. The notches should not prevent the adapter from being reused - if cut cleanly.

Thanks mark. Like the smile at the end 😁

Did you locate the pieces using SkySafari? 🤣 >>>🚪

The 70 degree versions claim 20mm/15mm eye relief and the 85s claim 20mm/12mm. The 20mm is measured from the centre of the top face of the top lens. And the 15mm & 12mm are from the top of the rubber eye guard. The eye guards are the same for both eyepieces so they sit the same distance above the outside edge of the lens housings. You can see from my measurements that the centre of the glass to the top of the eye guard differs by 7 - 4.5 = 2.5 mm between the two EPs. This is close to the 3mm difference in usable eye relief claimed - so I think their figures are pretty good / my measurements are fairly accurate - although my wife says they feel closer to each other in use to her bespectacled eyes. How much wiggle room do you have when using the XW40 @Louis D? You could try winding it out 2.5mm from the fully in position on your XW40 and that might give you an idea of how the 85 degree versions will behave.

I've just measured my XW40 (to make sure we're measuring the same thing). I agree your figure of 7mm recession at the edge. The top lens is convex on this EP, and the recession is 4.5mm at the centre. On my XW16.5 it's recessed 4.5mm at the edge. The top lens is concave on this EP, and it's 7mm recessed at the centre.

very high magnification through a damaged filter?

Maybe your leg spreader is at an odd angle? You could try putting all the legs at the same length (all fully up perhaps), loosening the spreader, change the leg angles so the spirit bubble is level, re-tighten the spreader while ensuring the bubble stays central.

I like the look of them - and I have a use for some too. What are they / where can I get them? (Do you have a link maybe?)