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  1. I found the following report by Dave Knisely very useful in learning what type of filter to try on which objects. And it helped me decide which one to get first to test the waters. https://www.prairieastronomyclub.org/filter-performance-comparisons-for-some-common-nebulae/ I would add that you really need good dark skies to observe these types of objects - and under these conditions the filters really help. The scores of 5 in the above list really are that good and the resulting "wow"s I've had with them have made my purchase of good quality versions of the filters worth every penny. If you expect a filter to compensate for not having dark skies then I think you will be disappointed.
  2. It's pushing the budget a bit, but I'd strongly consider the Sky-Watcher Evostar 80ED DS-Pro Outfit for £539 from FLO. And then separately, so not constrained to go brand new, get a used AZ5 or similar to mount it. I'm not a refractor expert, so those that are please chime in if I'm wrong, but I suspect the views though this will be much better than the non-ED glass 102, even with it smaller aperture. I nice quality refractor will give you something quite different to your dobs. And there are many threads on here of those who love their small aperture refractors in our generally poor UK skies. Good conditions - get the dob(s) out. Not so good - pull out the grab and go refractor.
  3. Yes, a carefully controlled experiment with no ambient light, painted surfaces, real world clutter, etc, just boils down to the differences of reflectivity and scatter of the curtain material verses the window glass. It's modelling the 'more than you'd have thought' impacts of the real world clutter that makes it more interesting.
  4. It's never genuinely pitch black outside. You're comparing; * the reflectivity of the closed curtains with * the reflectivity of the glass in the windows * the amount of ambient light passing from outside through the window into the room * the reflectivity of the, now exposed, window sill - which is often painted white I suspect the sum of the different 'open curtain' effects are about the same as the 'close curtain' - which is why we don't notice any material difference.
  5. Fantastic! Thanks for posting. I now want a smorgasbord of delights in my life too.
  6. The hole in your OTA is perfect for using 2" diagonals and eyepieces. They won't vignette. The thread on the back of your OTA is a 2" SCT thread. You screw off your 1.25" visual back and replace it with a 2" version. Something basic like this... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-2-visual-back-eyepiece-holder-for-sct-telescopes.html Or something fantastic like this... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-click-lock-2-for-celestron-meade-sct.html
  7. Saw this on another thread earlier today... What's the thermometer in the focuser adding?
  8. As it's a new EP to you, are you aware the housing moves up and down so you can find the right eye placement? They can be locked in place once you find your best position. Maybe yours are locked in the wrong spot? Something like this...
  9. Infrared light is separated out and sent down the fibre optic cables to other instruments for analysis. Visible light passes through as normal and is used for alignment and tracking.
  10. That would be nice... but there isn't really enough back focus for one that keeps things optimal, sadly. [Well, the new Primaluce Lab ESATTO 2" LP Low Profile Robotic Microfocuser might do the trick - but not at £800 !!] https://www.365astronomy.com/primaluce-lab-esatto-2-lp-low-profile-robotic-microfocuser
  11. Agreed. Although it's only elaborate once - to parfocalised everything. Once that's done you just get on and use it without thinking about it.
  12. Sorry David - I read that as the diopter adjustment but you're right it's not clear. It's definitely opposite directions to each other on my Maxbright II - but I don't have the Mark V to know for sure about those. I'll go and sit in the corner and keep quiet.
  13. My SCT provides me with lots of sparkle in star clusters. It's an 8" Edge HD and I use it at fl 2125 (by ensuring back focus is 133mm). Deviating only marginally from that and things soften - but parfocalising all my EPs makes keeping everything sharp no problem. And that includes with binoviewers too. I suspect most SCT users don't consider their back focus position and regularly push or pull their primary mirror far too far from it's optimal position - hence softening their views and leading to the bad reputation SCTs have.
  14. Each side rotates in the opposite direction to each other. (Unless they are 2nd hand and a previous owner replaced it with the wrong hand version. Unlikely though) Q&A on baader website:
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