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Jm1973

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Everything posted by Jm1973

  1. What sort of mount is it? Goto or manual? Equatorial or Alt-Az? Once you take the DSLR out and put a barlow on, you could easily have knocked the telescope off target. You will also be zooming in further so you will be looking at a smaller FOV. Plus the planets are moving too. It can be tricky to find them, they are small and you are probably looking through a small live view screen.
  2. I followed this guide https://www.lightvortexastronomy.com/tutorial-setting-up-an-equatorial-mount-on-ascom-with-eqmod-stellarium-and-cartes-du-ciel.html
  3. A one minute exposure with an ha filter will actually have less signal, than a 1 minute exposure without one. But for me, even a two minute exposure, without a filter, is ruined by skyglow and LP.
  4. That's a nice East Veil pic. Which filter did you use?
  5. There are quite a few dual-bandpass type filters now, often confusingly marketed as tri-band or even quad-band, but apart from the OPT Triad Ultra Quad-band, they are all just dual bandpass. Sometimes the oiii band is wide enough to allow hb to pass as well, and a bit of clever marketing is to call these tri-band filters, rather than dual band filters with a less restrictive band-pass. If the Ha band is also a bit wide, enough to include sii then they call it a quad band filter. In reality though, these tri and quad band filters are just less restrictive dual band filters - althought they may confer other qualities such as more natural star colour. The l-extreme as it has two 7nm bandpasses, is good enough to filter out most light pollution, even moonlight, which most of the others won't block. The STC duo-narrowband is similar but more expensive. The OPT Triad Ultra Quad-band actually has 4 separate bandpasses, one for each of the emission lines, but that is massively more expensive. If you just want to dip your toe in the water, so to speak, the Altair Astro tri-band and the ZWO duo-band filters are the cheapest, at around £80 for the 1.25" version. They have, I think, 15nm ha and 35nm oiii/hb bandpasses. The good thing about these filters is you can split out the oiii and ha into two channels and do dual-narrowband imaging in APP or PI.
  6. Check the date format. I had issues where slewing was completely wrong, and it was because the date format was wrong. It should be entered in American format: ie. mm/dd/yy.
  7. Should still be applicable I guess. Thanks.
  8. Hi. Is there a website showing which emission lines are visible from which nebula? I'm trying to work out which filters are suitable for which DSOs. Thanks.
  9. A lot of food for thought. I guess if I was going to go for the easy option I would get a jump-starter, as they seem to be basically the same thing as the SKywatcher powerbanks but cheaper. My other option is to build something bespoke. I have basic soldering skills. I used to build drones and that involved soldering circuit boards, so something like this should be a doddle. I can certainly follow a circuit diagram. I suppose the other option is something more modern like LiPo or LiFePo. Am I right in thinking the main advantage with LiFePo over Lipo is safety?
  10. Hi Steve. While I currently don't have dew heaters, now that weather is getting colder it may be that I start to need them soon. I have noticed the telescope gets pretty wet now. Although it hasn't been a problem as far as the optics are concerned.. yet. Maybe I should just buy a leisure battery and build a box around it like you suggest.... Any thoughts on using that sort of setup? John.
  11. Thanks for the replies. I used to build and fly drones so I am used to the drill with charging/discharging/recharging etc. I will only be using this when I travel to dark sites etc. Which realistically won't be that often. I generally image from home, and I use an extension lead in a box, going back to the house and plugged into an RCD then.
  12. Two answers, both completely different. I know a lot of people use these types of multi-functional jump-starters to power their mounts. It was more of a question as to whether this particular one is ok, not so much whether jump-starters can be used. Interesting that you should say not to use them at all.
  13. Hi people. I'm here to pick your brains again. Would you think this is a suitable power supply to power my mount and camera in the field? https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/4-in-1-jump-starter-594335.html It's got 2 cigarette lights type 12V ports, and a USB. It's 17ah. I only have to power my camera and EQ5 synscan. I would think it should be plenty. And it's £50 quid as opposed to about £130 for the Skywatcher 17ah version... Opinions, thoughts, alternatives are all very welcome.
  14. Just looked like clouds to me. 😞
  15. There is someone selling one now on Facebook for £250. Is this a good deal?
  16. Ha! 🤣 My bad. Fearl0rd is the guy who coded the ASCOM driver for DSLRs.
  17. I think I might get that, and then buy an l-extreme 1.25". Whenever they are back in stock.
  18. Found it! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4306640 Fearl0rd? Isn't that the guy who coded SharpCap?
  19. That is very interesting. Especially as 1.25" filters seem to be cheaper than clip filters. Have you had any issues with using a 1.25" filter? Do you recall where you got the adapter from? Or was it on Thingiverse or something?
  20. Hi there. Thanks for the clear reply. I just wasn;t sure of there was a filter size that would fit this thread. But it sounds like even if there was one it may be more trouble than it's worth to put a filter that far away from the sensor. From what I've been reading it sounds like a clip-in filter will help with colour shift and possibly haloing as well. The reason I've been enquiring about this is I have a NIkon APS-C which doesn;t have a lot of filters available for it. I am going to get a Canon instead, as these have a much wider range of clip ins to choose from.
  21. Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I have thought about a clip-in filter, but I'm just trying to work out how other people do it. I think using a filter in the nosepiece is more versatile, as I could maybe use them for visual too.
  22. Turn left at Orion is great, especially if you don't have a goto mount.
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