Clarkey

Now you're just showing off🤣

At least you have some orange....

I was recently processing a stacked image and during the star removal stage came across two odd 'halo's' on the starless version. I then went back and looked at the original and both halo's were round very red stars. It would be nice to think that they were the start of a new planetary nebula from a red giant - but I am sure the explanation is much more mundane. However, I have no other explanation. I do not believe they are optical aberrations as they are only on two stars - I have also not seen them before. Anyone have any idea of the cause?

Thanks everyone for all the replies and guidance. Below is a slightly 'de-greened' image. I did this for the stars to try and improve the colours - but maybe I need to do this for the nebula too. I've done a fair bit of mono imaging using APP and Affinity. OSC is a different beast that I have not fully got to grips with yet. Dual band even more so. I don't really have a 'workflow' yet. Press and guess😄. This was more of less BXT followed by SXT. GHS and some colour tweaks followed by a little bit of noise removal then add the stars back. Then there were some final tweaks in Affinity for some targeted contrast and saturation.

Thanks - I'll certainly have a look. I have paid for the Adam Block Fundamentals videos - I'm about halfway through. Very informative if a little slow going. This was not the specific problem - but looking at it again, the lower sky does seem to have a bit of a green tint. What I am really struggling with is getting anything other than red in the NB images. I think I need to work on masking the H-alpha signal in the OIII rich areas. I know it can be done using pixel math - I just need to work out how. At least the weather is so bad I'll get plenty of time to work on the processing!

I know the North American Nebula is not exactly uncommon, but this is my first image processed in PI - or at least 90% of it. PI is still a bit of a mystery to me, like trying to write left-handed in a mirror... Anyway, this is just over 6 hours using the FMA180 and an L-extreme filter. I still struggle to get the colour balance I want with PI, but at least this is better than the other processing I have tried. Taken in early September on the only two clear nights I have had so far since the summer. Comments and advice welcome.

That is a truly outstanding image. I was trying to count up how long it would take me to complete a 57 panel mosaic in Cumbria. I ran out of fingers🤣

Not very environmental, but ant powder would work as a last resort.

I had a clone (TS Optics) 150mm F4 scope and I was not overly impressed. Once I added a new focuser and aplanatic coma corrector it was OK but then cost nearly £1000. If I was looking at the F4's I think the Quattro is a better bet - although it is still going to require a fair bit of faffing to get it performing consistently. Having said this, a sub £500 imaging scope with coma corrector (giving F3.45) is certainly good value. I think with a little bit of tweaking it could make a good set up. A more costly option is one of the carbon versions from TS - but I do question the quality of the TS focusers. I've had a couple that were not good.

Looking at the map above you have 2 choices: Light pollution and clear skies or; Dark skies with cloud. Spain it is then😀

I don't have an ASiair, but given you need to put the camera and telescope details in the system for plate solving, there is no reason why it shouldn't be this way.

Really great images. I keep seeing these great RASA shots and it is an itch I am going to have to scratch.... just need to get permission from my 'accountant'.

I use the same on my phone. I find it pretty good for rain that shows up on radar, but not good for drizzle. I made myself a rain detector which alarms in the bedroom in the event it does actually rain.

If everything was this bright we wouldn't worry about all the light pollution. Not sure we would even need lights🤣

You can define the files in the equipment settings, along with the file name. I keep all my lights together, but put the filter type and other data in the file name. (File type, shot length, filter, gain etc).

10" Dob for £90. It was a bit of wreck and the base was rotten. But after a bit of DIY for a new base and clean up, I now have a fully functioning scope for << £150. (Colour scheme from 9 year old son).

Great image. Personally, I am a bit 'old school'. I like stars... I like the palette you have used. Gives nice highlights with the surrounding dust clouds.

In my experience it is always worth getting the focus point with new kit during the day.

Overall it is not a bad result at all. Certainly better than my first few attempts. Every astrophotographer makes these sort of mistakes sometimes - just live and learn... I took a whole night of luminance frames once.......in blue😭

Having looked at the stunning images in on this challenge, I have come to the conclusion I MUST HAVE a RASA😃. There have already been a number of versions of this, but I'll add my take on the Cygnus loop. I have really struggled for clear skies recently, so opportunities have been limited. FMA180 with RisingCam IMX571 with L-Extreme. Taken over two nights in early September - total of approximately 11 hours integration. Bucking the trend a little bit - with stars.

This is the same settings I normally use. I could go shorter on the subs, but the processing just takes soooooo long.

Completely agree. I definitely prefer the second version - very nice. The first just looks like it has been 'cleaned up'.

The inside measurement at the thread is 42mm on an M48 connector. The internal lens is actually slightly larger at approximately 44mm. I have not used it on a FF sensor, only APS-C and it does vignette slightly in the corners. If you remove the M48 adaptor you could screw directly to the flattener and add 2 or 3mm extra backfocus. I'm not sure of the thread size though, possibly M54. In the comments for the flattener, someone states they are using it with a FF mirrorless camera with a 62ED. Just for info, here is a single uncalibrated sub (just stretched a bit). Not perfect in the corners, but not too bad. Probably needs an extra mm backfocus.

I use the StellaMira1x flattener on a 115mm f7 scope and it is fine. I would certainly give it a go.

I'm just wondering the difference between this and a mini PC? It's just a small computer. No hub, direct usb connections. I use a homemade power box and a mini PC on the rig and so far it has been bomb proof. Now I've jinxed it....😀