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Jim Smith

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About Jim Smith

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy
    Opera
  • Location
    West Herefordshire, UK
  1. Thanks for the thoughts Ruud. I think the difference in fogging may be mostly due to the ventilation factor. I've just checked and the eyecups on the Olympus binoculars are significantly wider than the Canon ones. I can see more daylight when using them. I would think more ouside air can circulate over the lenses as you suspected. It's interesting that this makes such a big difference in usability. I prefer the Canons in many ways, but if I can't see through them...
  2. About two seconds after I raise my Canon 10x30 IS binoculars to my eyes, the eyepiece lenses fog over, blurring the view. This does not happen with my Olympus DPS I 8x40s. They stay clear. I view without glasses. Does anybody have any ideas as to why this might be? Different lens coatings? Thanks in advance, Jim
  3. I made this video to show approximately what you can see with binoculars or a small telescope on a moonless night away from city lights. Viewing full screen helps.
  4. My friend, knowing that I have an interest in astronomy, asked me to identify the odd looking shapes in this holiday photo. It was taken in Zakynthos about 4/5 years ago, around July time. Apparently they were not visible with the naked eye but only showed up afterwards in the photo. She cannot remember the make or model of the camera or smartphone used. Other photos taken near the time did not show these shapes. Are they something real or just some camera problem? I thought they might be the focussing assist light reflected off some flying insects. Has anyone seen anything like this before?
  5. ...and now I see how to do it in Sky Safari 6! Sorry!
  6. There's a nice feature in Stellarium on WIndows that allows you to enter your camera sensor size and lens focal length. You can then choose to see the field-of-view rectangle on the main display. Does anybody know of an iPhone app that does the same thing. I have Sky Safari 6 but I don't think it has this feature. Thanks in advance! Jim
  7. I thought I would try to create some images that show what the view through binoculars and small telescopes actually looks like. I have used a single shot for each and adjusted the exposure in software to match what I see through my binoculars and telescope. Could I do something different to improve on these?
  8. Thanks for the quick reply. I think there's quite a lot here I haven't quite grasped yet! Is it possible to focus using the live view display on the camera? Do you have to set a very high ISO, long shutter and/or something else to do so? Does the live view display on the phone app differ from the one on the camera? With your trial and error method, how do you view the images you have taken?
  9. I hope to do some wide-angle milkyway and constellation photography. I was thinking of acquiring a Canon EOS 6D for this, but I am concerned about manual focussing with the fixed screen facing towards the ground. My old body is not as flexible as it used to be :-) Has anyone got any experience of focussing using the Canon smartphone app over WIFI? Is it possible to actually see the stars on the smartphone and focus? I've tried the equivalent process with my Panasonic Lumix LX100 and I can't see any stars on the screen, so I have to focus on some distant building lights then reorientate the camera. Thanks, Jim
  10. I agree. I overlooked the importance of field of view. I used to have a C6/Hyperstar f/1.9 set-up. It was very fast and great for some things, but most objects I was interested in appeared unacceptably small. I have kept the C6 but I now use it at around f/4.0 to f/6.3. It's slower but I get the view that I like. If I really want a binocular-style field of view then my f/2 camera lens finderscope can give me that. Also, don't forget that smaller scopes have benefits in terms of mount requirements, storage and quick set-up times. I think a 120mm f/6 refractor would give good results on brighter objects as long as you didn't mind waiting a bit longer to get them. However, a C6 captures more light and is overall more compact. But, of course, it's always a compromise and we all have our own preferences. This M27 view, using the C6 @ f/6.3 took 2 minutes to achieve but I think it was worth the wait...
  11. Do you know which folder your StarlightLive.exe file is in? (Try searching your C: drive for it in File Explorer.)
  12. Greg, On my Mac, I have only used command line parameters when I have had two cameras connected at once with two instances of SLL running at the same time. With only one camera connected and only one instance of SLL running, it has, as far as I recall, all just simply worked without any command line parameters. I'll let you know if I think of anything else.
  13. Helen, thanks to Steve, my .bat file now contains the following single line... start "" "C:\Program Files\Sll33\StarlightLive.exe" -platform windows:dpiawareness=0 (I created a .txt file with Notepad and renamed it to .bat) (Also notice that my StarlightLive.exe may be in a different folder to yours!) When I double click on the .bat file it gives me the nicer version as shown below. If I just launch SLL 3.3 in the normal way I get the squished version, also shown below.
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