Robindonne

The last time i checked mine it said 12 or 12,?? Volt. If you have a multimeter i’d better check it before you start doing long use with this combo

Thought about this one indeed😅

Had to google the Sharpie marker. Is it a brand in the UK? Same like our Edding waterproof markers? Or does it leave some more fluid-like stuff then a normal marker? The normal marker is used a lot by me on a lot of brackets etc. That works very good on the Black satinpainted metal. The scope however has a thick layer and glossy. I tried to add a picture of that mark but It seemed to be disappeared😬. Its that small i think, or its hidden by the tuberings. I’ll wait some days to see if someone has a paint-dedicated solution. If not then i think i start with one of these small carpaint-brush sets

No the wrapping or covering up is not something I prefer i think. But thats a matter of taste maybe. I think the scope is like 5-10 years old and 99.99999 of the paint is perfect. It just that tiny, possible, eye-magnet what could bother me later. I was thinking to steal a drip of black nailpolish from my daughter, or as you mentioned car paint. But if its tried before i would love to see a result. I think these 4/5 mm screwmarks are, next to dents and scratches, the most common damages in the scope-scene.

So i just picked up a secondhand telescope. And besides it’s mostly in very good condition, no great signs of (ab)use. It does have a small mark from a screw that probably went through the tuberings i assume. It has a small Half circle 4mm diam Mark in it. Has anyone ever repaired these kind of small marks in a glossy black painted tube? Or just live with it and prefend further damage by doing all kinds of repairwork

Ha great! One more questioning user! But in the beginning, (and before polaralignment could be done with main or guidescope) its not really important what direction the scope is aimed for a good polaralignment. just Polaralign with the polarscope and thats it. The position of the mainscope will be determined after you’ve done the 3 star alignment Or platesolving. I asked this “home position” question because a lot of modern systems have the ability to polaralign with one of the cameras (main/guide). And thats when a marked homeposition could be very handy. the traditional polarscope needs to be calibrated in the mount, as perfect as possible. But when doing a modern polaralignment through one of the scopes, suddenly you’ve lost your calibrated “eye” for this polaralignment. Strange!! I have to mention that that modern polaralignment can only be done accurate after the cameras have taken some shots from multiple positions That way the software can calculate the current angle/position of the mount at this moment i have some diy waterproof fineliner marks on my scope to help me start in homeposition. the differences you mentioned in the real position of polaris and the given position shown in the “PS align pro” app, Are because a bug in the app i think. I have the same issue and noticed the timezone in the ps align pro is different then how it should be. For example in Holland +1 and the app shows +2. When i change the timezone in my synscan app to the faulty timezone in the ps align pro app, suddenly they both show corresponding figures. So its a bug i assume

Oh sorry You seem to know him personally. I couldn’t do other than picture a dedicated stargazer. I will corrent my comment. Sorry again!!

Wow You’re a big eater😅

What would it be like? An impact by something that could destroy an area like europe for example. Always wondered how the mooncraters got their flat inside area. Is it filled slowely during the time after an impact or is the immediate result a refilled big crater. Or do we get an extended atlantic ocean, new record high mountains etc. Or are we indeed globally doomed when something that big visits us at one side of the earth

The funny thing is that, if sgl still exists at the moment of impact, some people are probably chatting about the odds of an impact and then 💥

Its interesting but i cant really tell much about it that makes sense(as you might have already noticed). But i wonder how somethings path can be predicted when its speed and direction can change due to passing other objects or breaking in parts, and therefore predict the location of earth on that moment?

Don’t worry. I have my newton constantly aimed at the sky. I’ll let you know when i see something Worth mentioning. But seriousy i dont know how “protected” we are when something is coming towards us. I do know that after reading an article about a lucky escape of earth not being hit by something that wasn't seen with their “Earth defense radar” i became sure we will suffer if we are on the path of something big. And worrying while you cant change the situation is for me worthless. *** crawling back to his basement***

Oh just read the 3.8 isnt for visual. The previous owner was an old visual man. I guess im safe and check it myself again tomorrow!

Johninderby and solar b, thank you very much for this Saturday night live educational talk. I assume it has the 5.0, ot at least a similar version that was used back at the beginning of the 21st century. If both are safe to have a look through now and then, i’ll let her have it. I showed her recently a picture of a molten barlow from internet and noticed that since that day her newtonian is aimed at the floor, covered by a blanket. So it will be all fine after I show her these advices. Thx again. Have a nice weekend ☔️

Ah ok. Sounds logical. But whats the nd 5.0? A type of film? i received it as an assembled/complete filter, i mean the previous owner let it make in a german shop. It doesnt mention the film-type unfortunately. While discussing this, I remember having a baader continuüm filter. Im not sure what is does exactly. (Someone gave it to me) Filter the filtered view of the sun? If so then i’ll advice her to use them both.

Thx again. The previous owner did stored it in a cardboard box, and i continued doing it. I will check it with the uv light. It looks all good though. Thanks for the advices.

Oh really didnt know that. If its safer i’ll give here the current version with the film in it. Very much thx.

Hello. A question about a solarfilter. I’m planning to give a scope to my daughter with a solar filter. It’s a foil filter and im wondering if its replaceable with glass, or just buy a new one with glass. The housing is very nice and polished like a thousand oaks one for example. Im afraid the filter is the least used item ao to end up with two while the current one might be enough when its changed to a glass one.

The skywatcher ones can be pealed out or pushed out. If you spent 15 minutes, leveling the tripod first, then the mount to re install the bubble (Drip some superglue in the edges when its good), you will always benefit from it. A normal spirit level cant do the measurement at once. Nothing more accurate as a circular bubble level who measure all directions. (says a rookie stargazer, but lifetime stairmaker)

I can say that this is a pretty good way to skip the mirror focusser.

Mm real strange. The only times im not able to connect to the mounts is when i havent done a 3 star alignment. Once I accidentally pressed the 3 star alignment during the night. Of course cancelled the alignment because nothing was wrong with the previous 3 star alignment. But skysafari immediately recognized an unfinished alignment and lost connection with the mount. I cant tell you any other situations where connection gets lost during a connected period

Im not a pro but when you reach the limit of the screws, just start over and wind them all the way back to the “start”. Or just stay safe and stay in the middle. You should be “pulling” the mirror when collimating. And the “extra” Security screws puts pressure in the same direction as the springs. but im also curious if this is the correct way to go?!

Forget your home wifi. It might reconnect to home wifi (without you noticing) due to internet-less wifi ps. Try airplane mode. Maybe it works also. If airplane mode works, you dont have to “forget” the home wifi.

Hello from a singapore-like holland🥵

Oke its being printed and delivered in a couple of weeks. It will fit and glued right below the lowest baffle en will cover the mirror 3 mm. Hope its enough to spread the cool air both over the back and surface Of the mirror at the same time. It should keep up a bit better with the lowering temperature During the night i hope. Although its maybe a strange design and never used before, if something occurs to you regarding any details i’m not aware of then help me out please.