Robindonne

Well at first i was only worried i might have to low amps. But thats not really damaging electronics right on, maybe after a while... dont know. The main cause is reading about fried electronics. A small percentage suffer from wrong polarity, but the main suffer from overvoltage. Read it a lot. BoardS are being fried more then scopes fall out their saddle. And for that we all put some bolts to catch a gliding scope, even if it Basically never happens. The main fear i have, the overvoltage, isnt really protected with a fuse for overconsumption of amps. Tested one of my planning to use powerbricks and measured almost 19v for a small second at start up. (Not a new one). so overvoltage is my main fear. And if it costs 100s of euroS i might take the risk not being protected. But these protection parts cost 1€ each. just dont know if there are other users protecting their stuff for this and with what different ways. Maybe a good advice to have the device power switch alwausy “off” when plugging in the powersupplies

No more because some commented about interfering issues between equipment powered from 1 source

I think its a stupid idea😉

I did mount my c5 on a vixen porta. But it was a porta 1 so probably a bit more degraded like newer ones. The mount was part of a used zenithstar 80. An old an heavy one. Only thing i noticed with this combo is sometimes slowmo up would slip for a second. I tightened the axle? a bit more and the problem was gone. The c5 didnt cause any problems at that time of slipping before thightening. It only occured with the heavier refractor. does the c6 not hit the mount? My old c5 almost touched it when attached to the porta

No correct. The power brick from your link is what I prefer also. I use them as my only form of power supply. But even whet those you can burn your equipment. It happens almost every week a couple of times. And thats only astro related frying, and only members at this forum. So in reality it happens very often. Good working powersupplies who lose Or dont have the ability to keep the voltage as set, even at startup of the psu. I think it can be easily protected but im not sure. Do you use the stepdowns in your astro setup? And for what reason?

Even while i dont have very expensive equipment, this is what im afraid of happening every time i plug in a powersupply. Not traumatized orso but having read so much issues and fried parts. Almost daily/weekly. I did last week a check on one of my power supplies. Steady 12 volts. But a peak of 18/19 volt at the start. We should protect more of our equipment against these fluctuations. Its probably cheaper then being late an having to replace mounts or cameras

Also not bad at all. Nice sealed so a lot of suction in the tube.

Me to. Im not an electrician or technician. But i trust my eyes😬. And they definitely saw a voltage peak of almost 19volt when plugging in a 12v power supply. I Used a decent multimeter and maybe its normal to fluctuate a bit. But 19 is a bit much i assume. And that wont blow the fuse out if the amps didnt increase as much as the voltage did

I think they use capacitors but im not sure if thats what you mean by playing safe. The ones used on mine are rated 35 volts. i think these are capacitors but when rated these voltages they cant protect overvoltage I assume

That sounds like it must work. But im trying to find a solution thats light, sticks to my tripod legs ( so room for 3 power supplies) and because i dont use a laptop/pc and have to set everyting up at around 10 meters from the house i dont prefer a pc power supply or a nevada 8a sort of supply

Oke thx. That i didnt know. I have to say i wasnt planning to start with a lower voltage then needen but somehow i thought that only the boost step up converter have all the protections I mentioned in my first post. The reversed polarity etc. But the main reason was thinking that a step down converter always needs more voltage input then the desired output. So much of the 12 volt power supplies become useless. I added a description of my boost step up/down. Is the noise that can interfere with the delicate electronics in our mounts the noise they try to cancel With the described filters? Or is it not possible to have a stable and clean output?

I did. Ended with part 4. Maybe there is more but couldn’t see it on my phone. But his message was basically: cool more then you think. Maybe we need M.Pyott for this?😎

And this was all back in 2004/2005. Imagine the small costs you can build an peltier (€2,-) temp-predicting small pc (€10,-) Silent fans (€ 2,-) TempSensors (€1,5) and some alu/3d parts (€15,-). Or buy a complete peltier cooler kit for €35,- from the east, maybe they can ship it on the same ship our scopes are shipped😬. But serious, my idea of that ring is **** compared to the Solution used in the 2004 test from your link. it needs to be much more then just improve airflow directions

Really interesting indeed. It basically says nobody will ever fully benefits its newton without a very active cooling? Wow and almost 2 decades later we still think about solutions😬

Here comes that big thank you for putting time and effort into this list. I can’t really test it on my phone but does it have some calculators build in that work with different mirror sizes?

I dont want to interrupt this thread because im not really a eq6r owner. At least not this spring. But i do wonder, while the max load of these mounts is one the higher part of the image-scale, how you protect the mount from being fried? I understand all sorts of protection is available but who does protect its mount agains overvoltage Or reversed polarity and shortcuts. I wanted to place a buck converter between the powersupply an equipment. Combined with some sort of fuse against overvoltage & amps. Do you think it will work with a decent boost buck converter to keep the voltage steady?

I was wondering this fuse-amp relation. What if the voltage rise but the amps stay within the fuse maximum?

Oh wow. Never been to this “mount” section before. Just placed a post tonight about the fear for fried electronics and the right way to protect against these small but expensive errors. Might as well follow this thread to see how some of you solve this risk.

Planning to install it in these small boxes. The buck converter uses about half the box. Its ventilated and the room for a fuse is like 25x20x10 mm. They make longer boxes, so if a fuse needs more then i have to order longer ones. With some velcro or dual-lock they can be placed everywhere on the mount.

A question about protecting the mount and other electronics. I hope someone can advice me on this. In a recent thread here someone adviced to better go for 2 or 3 power supplies, each 12v 5a, instead of 1 bigger one, a 12 v 8a for example. While trying to find out the best supply for a mount i read a lot about fried boards/mounts and their solutions to protect the board. Im planning on placing a dc buck converter between all the power supplies and the equipment. I have some boost buck converters that can be set to output always a given voltage (whatever the input voltage may be), protect reversed polarity and other possible problems. i would like to get a steady 12-13 volts from the buck converter with as high as possible amps. What powersupply is the best to give juice through the buck converter to my equipment? is it better to start with, 12v 5a or for example a 18v 3a? How can one achieve a steady 12v with high amps? Oh and in that same little project box i want to add a fuse or other sort of protection. I just dont know if the fuse will protect the overvoltage that can occur because most of the time fuses protect against high amps instead of high voltages That questionmark made me opt for a buck converter to have at least one device that checks the overvoltage. But i prefer adding a fuse in between Have to ask this because while checking on of my 12v supplies i measured a 19v peak at the start. very much thanks if someone can give a view om his or her solution. its for an heq5, a eq5 and in the near future a eq6r and the equipment isnt really special also. Just basic and cheap stuff. Dslr, some dewprotection and an asiair. The mount And the chance to end up with fried electronic in it is what concerns me the most

Do you guys mean that even if the vibration from the fan is eliminated, the view can still be affected by to much airmovement? Or do you only refer to fan vibrations?

Excuses me. I can just remove the back to reach the area🤪

😅

Even if that fan axle has the shape of a banana it still wont cause vibrations i guess

I think, and its really only that, for what i have read, is that even when it doesnt show much suffering from dew, it still suffers from a warmer mirror and therefore maybe a warmer surface area. I’m not really sure, but starting to change my mind while as a rookie i thought the dreamsetup has a nice big apo in it to thinking perfect newtonians can do also be part of that dreamsetup. And have to start with the tools i have. Only own this 8”.