Robindonne

That is the plan indeed. I hope to get an as good as i can setup for my journey into imaging. It must be indeed a good balanced fan and mounting. I can do some visual with a spare setup. But i know i wont (until now) feel the need to do long nights of visual enjoying the sky. (Have to admit that hours can pass by before you know it while “stargazing”😬)

Wow nice. I like the camo print on the alu ring😉. But nice to see its almost sealed when the fans are running, and when they dont run they offer maybe enough airflow between the fanblades. Im glad is suffer from collimation bolts sticking out of the bottom. Not very handy when trying to let the tube rest on its back, but handy if i choose to close the back like you did with the red plexiglass. No vibration issues with 3 big fans? but again. I dont know how often i will suffer from a mirror thats not on temperature. Maybe its minor. The description tells us it made from a low thermal expansion glass, but maybe all newtonian mirror are from that type of glass. i live in the middel of the forest. Dew is a standard here. Almost daily. But its darker then dark, and very quiet. i like the fact that this problem doesnt have just one solution. Its not use this when you suffer from this or use that when you suffer from that. im curious how many think their setup is great while it has the possibility to give even greater views due to some unsolved an unknown mysteries, but comparing is so difficult. You should Have at least 2 or more identical scopes to check if one gives better results then the other. The “mine gives razorsharp views” comments cant really be read as useful because of this, not being able to compare, issue. I do think i bring myself in trouble with this 3d printed ring😬 where this thread was all about. I didn’t check the inside of the tube recently. And when i did today, to see my margin around the mirror, i noticed I might run out of room to even reach the area im planning to mount the ring. Only if another quattro owner can tell me the interior of the tube is easily being removed. The baffle rings. maybe the lowest baffle ring can support 2 half 3d printed rings But that lowest ring is still some cm’s above the mirror

Im willing to send you a list with all the pros and cons. But i dont have it. Dont know them. When reading your post and questions i hoped to find some advices. But maybe its an all straight forward scope. Mount it cool it and use it. I did buy some accessories last week. And they come with an 127 mak. I dont know the scope, but i sold my old c5 and maybe this one will act as an easy and lightweight alternative. The one thing i wondered is if any sct reducer will fit the mak.

Hm maybe that’s true indeed. And maybe its a lot of extra work for small improvements. But better safe then sorry and time or some extra couple of € aren’t a real headache. I don’t know if besides the size of the mirror, the thickness filles a role in cooling down. Its an f4 and im not really sure if that means the curve/radius is smaller. What would mean the thickness probably bigger. When i bought this newton I remember comparing the weight against a carbon tube. And that was not a big difference. 8,? vs 10 kg. So the mirror must be heavy The heaviest part. Comparing against a normal 8” newton, the Quattro8 is also 1,2 kg heavier while being 20% shorter than a normal 8”. I cant find the thickness of these mirrors but based on these weightnumbers a conclusion is easy made that the f4 mirrors are thicker

Those weird looking open or flex tubes aren’t that weird at all🙂

And like mentioned before,The constant airflow helps to keep the Area right above the mirror cool. And prevent dew in whatever small form to build on the mirror

What I remember reading was due to the temperature lowering during the night, faster then the mirror can cool down without a fan, it would help to keep a constant flow over the mirrorsurface.

That of course would be very helpful. Although to save you some work i can tell you its for a 8” Quattro. If its a helpful (for us all) list you can make, then a big thank you in advance for all who benefits from that list. To complete my planned setup, im considering 3x40 mm fans. And if possible i will add a fan controller to it. Dont know if its normal to shut it off after an hour orso, or let it blow on a lower speed for the whole night.

And its for sale in the netherlands. Im not a 100% visual addict but its definitely a nice set i think. Dont know the owner but thought i have to mention something nice is on the market. 1000€ so around 900£ Its also advertised on te-les-koop.nl

Oklop do have great bags like many other brands. But i dont know if its good for a dobson to remove the tube from its base on a regular basis. And these “bumps” will definitely cause big dents when bumped into something. After that it will fit probably better😉

A helloooo from Holland

Okay. I do have to put your explanation through a translator app. But for the parts that i understand for now, you mean that its the best to let the volume of the mirror decide the diameter of the fan? Or go for the most random one and deal with the non corresponding mirrorvolume/fansize but make the airflow better? I decided to try out a printed ring to see if the airflow will cool the mirror surface faster, and to see if a cooled area above the mirror makes big differences. ngc mentioned other option, to suck the air through the tube. So a reversed fan. Maybe the ring needs a reversed curve to suck the air over the mirror first. The detail that makes this option interesting is that, if the mirror needs to be the same temp as the ambient temp, i wont blow “fanheated” air against the mirror. And therefore always Blow slightly warmer air into the tube. Dont know if its really that big of a deal.

Oh wow. Way more options and experiments than i thought. When seeing all these different configurations, the most interesting is indeed why isn’t There one best way to follow. The single or multiple fans on the back of the mirror are likely not the best option. But you can’t buy anything else! At least Other options are not offered in probably all the astro specialized shops?

Oke nice. Your reactions sounds like it will maybe help cool the mirror and nearby air in the tube. I will try something. Not that im educated in whatever science is needed for this test, nor having any knowledge of whats possible with designing plastics(only wood), nor having a second quattro available to see the difference, ánd being one of the most inexperienced stargazers😅. But i will install the ring, and have it made the air flowing ánd towards ánd over the surface of the mirror. I will try to find the Article i read. It mentioned not only a cool mirror but an (as important) cool area above the mirror. Something thats effects the seeing more than the turbulent atmosphere. As i said, having really so less experience, i do know i have to cool the mirror one way or another. Just want to try to reach more than just the mirror if its proved to help.

No indeed, when i would change the direction of the fan, this ring is useless. But when ngc1503 mentioned about the suction instead of blowing, it also sounded like a way to definitely get the air in the tube moving against the surface. At least when the fan-tube connection is almost closed/sealed(less leaking) But if its tried sometimes ago and not being used anymore then it probably means it wont work that good i have to wait what Offer the 3d company Makes for the ring, i think not much, before i dive in the measuring etc. Maybe If you can find the time someday to make a picture from the inside of your tube Pls.?

What an info-filled website. Thx

Well this might be also e good solution to suck the air against the reflecting surface. That was probably the reason i wanted to try this. I remember reading an old article about cooling mirrors. What i didn’t know was that the air just above the mirror gave the most problems. So not just the mirror but the air from mirror to 20-30 inside the tube. 2 weeks ago i had again a fogged mirror and correctorplate. So these cloudy weeks are perfect to make time and solve some issues with my small collection

Im trying to solve as much issues i can face during the nightly hours. And because im probably doing most of the imaging with a newton, im planning to install one big (or 3 small) fans, to cool the mirror. i have some non-astro 3d parts being printed at a company and im planning to add one extra item. I have some margin-millimeters between the mirror and the tube. Im wondering if a thin and inwards curved ring will help cooling the surface of the mirror. The idea is to let some cool air flow over the mirror surface instead of Only cooling from the back of the mirror. Added a small sketch to explain a bit the idea. if im inventing the wheel again i hope to hear where this is for sale and what its called. Thx

Een Hallootje van een nieuweling. Welcome. edit. Wow. Looked at The website. Love the woodworking😍

Sorry. I meant: thank you for the advice, we are talking about it!

Doesn’t the focuser have more than just one screw? Maybe slightly tighten the small flat screws, the headless ones

Well i use it some months now and all i know is when asiair is connected through the handcontroller, you need to do a standard polaralign, then 3 star alignment beforE asiair talks to your mount and your good to go(to). This procedure is necessary to build a communication between the mount and the asiair (and perhaps skysafari if you have it, i can tell it works really great) Im waiting for an eqmod cable to arrive. the eqmod cable replaces the cable that goes from asiair to the bottom of the handcontroller in the standards setup. Unplug the handcontroller from the mount, dont need it anymore! When the Eqmod-connection is made direct from asiair To the handcontroller input (the input on the mount that says “handcontroller”), you can basically skip all the “Traditional” pa en star-alignment. When the eqmod connection is made, and the asiair settings are changed to “eqmod” then the communication works direct. So no need to do a 3 star alignment before asiair speaks to the mount. asiar helps you do a polaralignment using the maincam. And helps you do a staralignment by platesolving instead of aiming and aligning to 3 stars. oh and yes asiair has its own goto database. You do need to be connected to a mount. After the connection you can choose a target, asiair slews to the target and checks if its centered by taking pictures. i do have problems sometimes when using my c8. The fov is so small that platesolving wont work all the time okay i just wrote in a translated way to realize the op has to translate back to the original language. succes ermee😉

I think this is an option for the category “thx for the suggestion we will look into it” at zwo headquarters! Maybe later

Wel it was Not a really representative. While at work tried it on my phone online. I started with a basic 3 white dots on a black background. Blurred it and reopened the Blurred file with their Software to sharpen it. But after 4 times Doing a maximum sharpening over the image, i couldnt see much differences compared to the blurred version. I realized it was indeed not how it went in my imagination yesterday😬 But it was a small try. I definitely want to see how the outcome is when trying to form a sharp dot from a blurred elipse

I tried it with an image with a couple of stars. Blurred it and refocused it. Never got it back as sharp. But thx again. I will go and play with the info.