Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About rob_r

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Preston, UK
  1. Hi James, I'm in Penwortham, just on the other side of the Ribble.
  2. I'm glad I'm not the only one. Here, I have Bortle 6, a 5" f12 scope with a GOTO system which gets me to the right area. It was with a little luck I managed to capture it a couple of weeks ago (be it off centre in the frame), then struggled to find it again since. I see nothing through various eyepieces other than the stars but with the captures it was revealed as a ghostly image on the subs with a Canon 600D. I'm eager to find it again to get more subs. I might try my 0.5x reducer and see if that makes things any easier.
  3. The only mention of 'binning' is on here, https://free-astro.org/index.php/Siril:Manual. It is under the 'RGB Compositing' tool. But, it looks like I need to split the image into the separate colour channels first. So, I'll have to figure out how to do that. I am trying to follow this, https://free-astro.org/index.php/Siril:Manual#Process_your_single_images to improve things but finding it a struggle to be honest. Anyhow, the linear file is attached. result_16-04-20.fit
  4. Thanks vlaiv, your feedback is much appreciated. So the 'binning' aspect, is this done at capture or once you have stacked all the subs? I take it as in my mind from a simplistic point of view, it is image reduction but keeping the aspect ratio. Siril can 'resample' using a scale percentage using a bilinear interpolation which I guess is the same as Photoshop's Image Size tool. So if I halve the width and height, would that be a 2x2 bin and halves the focal length? I will certainly revisit this target with a lower ISO but with far more subs. To be honest, I got better than I was expecting out of the short exposure times. I'm eager to see if I can improve upon it. I'll try a 3-star alignment also to get better centred on target.
  5. Not to worry about the dials for either question. I have the SW EQ5 with the SynScan GOTO and I just set them to zero and locked them. I use the `Polar Scope Align` app to help with alignment. Ultimately, I'll be looking for guide cam/scope and using PHD2 later in the year too.
  6. Hi. Preserving is beginning to pay off a little. Even though I couldn't see anything through the eyepieces, trusting the GoTo on the EQ5 with an improved polar alignment, I got my first glimpse of a galaxy. I set up the polar alignment whilst it was still light with the small inconvenience of the polar reticle rotated on the SW EQ5 which I believe is quite normal, 12 isn't at the top. I may buy the Polar Scope Align app on my mobile to help further. I then one star aligned to Arcturus, keyed in M51 and had a look at various magnifications and nothing. Keyed back in Arcturus and the scope landed pretty much centre on the star. So I swapped out the EP for the camera and adjusted the focus. Test shot on Arcturus, 30 seconds, looked OK, slight trailing (again). Keyed in M51 and just thought just go for it. Quite amazed to see the faint spiral and two bright points for the cores on the exposure, be it slightly off to the top middle of the frame. Hope to revisit when I have more time and skies allow and try for extended exposures at 2 to 3 minutes and I know my scope isn't all that well suited for DSO's given it's focal ratio. But for me, it's progress. If I can get better definition I would be happy. I have a 0.5x reducer but cannot get focus with the camera but I have yet to try this without the diagonal mirror. Open to further advice, feedback and pointers. Scope: Skywatcher 127 Mak (f/12) Mount: Skywatcher EQ5 with SynScan GoTo Camera: Canon 600D (unmodded) Bortle: 6 Lights: 19x30 seconds at ISO6400 stacked in Siril No darks, flats or bias. Auto stretched (...too flat looking?) and removed green noise. Very much a work in process but thanks for looking.
  7. Hi. Seems a while since I was last out with the scope last week and we had 3 clear nights in a row which is practically unheard of. All the data for this was gathered on Friday night after failing to achieve adequate focus on this target the night before. The night before that, I went galaxy hunting but failed to locate any. At least, I got some time with my new EQ5 mount but was still finding star trailing a problem above 20 second exposure, poor polar alignment by the user perhaps. It was auto tracked, is that the right term? There was no guide scope involved but that is on the shopping list for later in the year. Since Orion is now off to the Southwest, it has disappeared from view as houses block the view so I tried for M67 in Cancer which was bright enough to overcome the sky quality and does not appear to be all that often imaged. Scope: Skywatcher Mak 127mm (focal length 1500mm, f12) Camera: Canon 600D unmodded Mount: Skywatcher EQ5 GoTo Lights: 97 frames, 65 x 5 seconds at ISO3200 plus 32 x 15 seconds at ISO3200 Darks: 27 frames, 17 x 5 seconds at ISO3200 plus 10 x 15 seconds at ISO3200 Bortle: 6 Stacked and processed in Siril v0.9 (Mac OS X), removed green noise and auto stretched levels with further curve and level adjustments in Photoshop. Thanks for looking.
  8. Well I managed to get my first set of images of M67 and saw the ISS again. Disappointingly, they are slightly out of focus. Focusing the camera seems a problem at the moment for me. That said, I ran 50 odd lights with a few darks through Siril to see the final result. The SW EQ5 mount seems to be working out quite nicely though. If the current weather holds out to tonight, I will try this target again. The cluster looks awesome through a 15mm EP despite urban skies.
  9. Clear skies all day here and hopefully looks set to continue into the evening. Last night I spotted the ISS drifting overhead for the first time, unbelievably bright too. I tried to hunt down some galaxies (M81 Bode's) too but had no success with seeing any structures, perhaps too light polluted. My plan for tonight is the open cluster M67.
  10. Thanks Peter. I will have a go at removing the diagonal and see if that makes any difference. Otherwise, I suspect the distance between the barlow and the sensor could be the issue as you have also suggested.
  11. Hi again, I recently got a barlow 0.5x reducer for Christmas. I tried this out last week with my camera but could not achieve focus after trying both moving the focus to the min and max positions. I assume I have made a beginner error with the focal length. The camera is slotted into the back of my 127mm Mak with a focal length of 1500mm (f12) via a T-ring adaptor. The lens would reduce that to 750mm but everything is just a huge blur. The barlow lens is screwed into the front of the T-ring. There is also a diagonal in between with no other eyepieces involved between the camera mirror and the scope. Do I need something else to achieve focus, like some kind of extension or another lens to achieve focus without using an eyepiece? I can use the reducer with the eyepieces without any issue. Thanks in advance.
  12. I just looked at CO and I'm sure my eyes are deceiving me, 3 clear nights in a row with very little moon! Hopefully, if we get our one year old to bed on time I should be able to put some quality time on my new EQ5 mount. The camera batteries are on charge.
  13. Just to update this, I sent the hand controller back to FLO and got a free replacement, this works fine. The LCD display functions as expected. Great stuff by FLO.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I tried connecting the handset via the USB connector to my laptop, still no joy. I think I will try and find an adaptor to supply the correct voltage and current from the mains rather via the power tank.
  15. Hi, I recently invested in a EQ5 GOTO mount from FLO. I eventually got around to unpacking it and building it. The issue is that when I switch it on, the Synscan hand controller lights up but the display is blank. I have not even gone through the setup as yet. In addition, I can move the mount head with the arrow keys but only for the first initial minute after the power is turned on. Subsequent presses to move the head just result in a buzzing sound and no movement. I am running it off a portable power tank that outputs 12v DC, I checked the power requirements for the EQ5 and it states 11-15v DC. Would I be better off running this mount from a mains supply? This is not a problem in the back yard as I have both the garage and garden shed have power, I just need to find a suitable plug adaptor and connection. Is it a low power issue? I left my power tank charging overnight and retested this morning but no change. I get the impression it is power related due to the tank not providing sufficient power but wanted to confirm this first. I have been using the AZ GTI mount for the past year or so now which only as a requirement of 7.5v DC. Is there anything else I could try with a view to narrowing down the problem just in case it is something else entirely. Thanks in advance.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.