fifeskies

try out this handy simulator Telescope Simulator - Stelvision Visually galaxies are nothing like the photos we all see examples of all the time. To the first time viewer they can be very underwhelming That said even small scopes have nice views of some brighter objects . Pleiades and Orion Nebula as 2 good examples. But it is best to take a look at what any instrument can do before you purchase it. In particular try out a typical 3 inch (refractor) view compared to a relatively cheap 6 inch Dobsonian view. There is a good reason many start out the hobby with a Dobsonian, easy to use and not too big.

Just to help clarify, as far as I understand it not having used this unit. The focus controller is powered by 12v standard input buttons on the unit allow you to drive the motor in or out The USB connection is for PC control from web when connected to a PC via USB2.0 that HitecDCFocus comes into its own. Our specially written software provides exquisite control over your focus motor. The minutest of focus motion can be acheived by adjusting the parameters of our software to your needs.

I have the WO GT81mk4 (and flattener reducer) , 100% would recommend it. I had the Equinox 80ED from Skywatcher previously, also a good scope but not up to the GT81 level , not had the Esprit to compare.

Yes don't use Herschel with an SCT, or any mirror type scope , read too quickly to notice you were using an SCT. Only really to be used with refractors, and even then some (eg 4 lens types) are not suitable.

I can confirm that the Altair Astro Pier is excellent. Solid once bolted down. I used threaded "j" anchors into the concrete below floor level.

What type of solar filter or Herschel wedge are you using for your solar imaging?

Delos 14mm from a member on here. Mint condition. Looks like all the clouds escaped the packaging despite careful opening.

I use a heated dew strap laid out flat on my observing desk and just sit them on it when not in use if it is a very dewey night. Just needs a gentle heat to help keep them clear, at least for a while. (and under some sort of box cover, like a sideways storage box) On cold high humidity nights cold eyepiece and warm breath can be a nuisance, keeping them slightly warm does help to prevent this. A hot water bottle in the bottom of a tray to warm them also works.

This can be used to make tracking time lapse video shots , there are a lot of them on uTube, slow pans across a landscape.

as mentioned above , with my D600 and Ha narrowband filter , I just knock the ISO all the way up to platesolve my target sometimes takes a fairly long exposure as well to get enough good stars for it, especially with my longer focus scopes. Once on target then run at the more usual ISO Guiding should keep you spot on target.

Just to note , the bar does not include the socket head screws you will need to fit the tapped holes on the base of the foot. I got mine from eBay , I think they are 1/4 UNC stainless steel , length I needed was 5/8th (i.e. depth of thread) But check what thread is in your Z71 foot , it may not be the same. It is useful to get a few different sizes of socket head screws , I have a selection 1/2 inch, 5/8th , 3/4 , and 1 inch to suit different purposes. so there is (almost) always one available in the parts box when needed. 1/4 UNC is the standard size for most William Optics needs. Other brands tend to use metric 6mm versions, I also have a selection in that format for my other scopes. I used a 1 inch long socket screw and lock nut to make the anti slide out safety stop, though you can use anything you have to fit this as it is not a threaded hole.

I have a Z61 but think it is broadly the same. You can add a matched WO bar, this has holes for the small shoe (foot) supplied to line up with. Makes it much easier to use and find balance the longer bar also lets you fit an anti slide out stop to the top end (just a longer bolt with a lock nut and spacer, this hits the jaws and prevents it sliding further down)) William Optics DSD 245 Plate | First Light Optics

Difficult to have a rule of thumb that is so dependant on ambient temp and humidity level. A cold damp autumn night and you will need to throw in plenty power or risk losing the struggle to keep clear views. A warm summer evening and you may get away without it turned on. Also what works at 10pm may not manage at 4am as mist forms when a weather front approaches. I tend to be generous to make sure I avoid any misting when on mains, but you don't want to overheat and create thermal eddies. If running from battery start lower and check after a while and judge if it is enough. There are some complex control systems that adjust level as temp and humidity sensors send data back , it might seem that is going beyond what is needed most of the time but it will ultimately give the best performance.

I would inspect the filter to see if it has a smudge on it.

With the type of anchor you are using I would think 200mm would be best (and certainly no less then 150mm) It will depend in part what you are putting on the pier , a 12 inch newt with a 4 inch refractor guider and a couple of cameras on an EQ8 grade mount will need a better fixing then a single 80mm refractor being used visually on a small mount. As always plan for the worst case scenario , we always end up upgrading our kit to bigger and better. My Altair pier has 300mm cemented in J bolts.

Got the bolt from eBay, I am fairly sure it is 12mm but maybe check that. They are available in a range of lengths. I used a long regular bolt and marked where it needed to "shoulder" against the underside of the plate. I then ordered the bolt just short of that length to make sure it both nestled up against the plate but had plenty thread inside the casing. Handwheel allows you to get it nice and tight with minimal effort. Was fairly cheap as I recall.

I have a pier mounted EQ6-R , though on the Altair Astro pier with the correct CNC adapter plate. I purchased a long thread handwheel bolt to hold the mount onto the CNC puck after bolting it to the pier, but with the Altair pier you can get your hand under the squirrel cage to adjust the bolt.

For once a very cheap bargain (eBay). Moonfish 30mm 80 degree eyepiece. In my recently obtained Zenithstar 61 this has an astounding 6.67 degree view, so basically it can be used as a finder. Seen mixed reviews of these and the clones of it, but this (genuine) one is nice and sharp even out to the edges (and I can use it with my glasses on so the eye relief is pretty good.) At x12 magnification in the Z61 it is great for just looking about the night sky , and even doubles up as a birdwatching scope for the birds on my garden feeder.

It does indeed take 2 inch fittings , nice compression ring holder with 3 point clamping, I will be using a William Optics 2 inch Diagonal with it. it also has a very high quality 2 inch to 1 1/4 adapter, handy for using as a guider with ZWO mini style cameras. (will be using it for both visual and AP)

Its from the fact everything works in binary ie 10 equals 2 , 100 equals 4 , 101 equals 5 and of course there are 10 types of people in the world , those that understand binary and those that do not. 12 bit resolution gives 4096 levels

Been looking for a small travel scope and this one turned up at a good price. Zenithstar61 and matched field flattener. Ultra portable and light enough for a photo tripod.

At best the dial is a guide. You need to use an accurate method to polar align. Sharpcap Pro works well, or a polemaster if you are imaging. For visual it is far less critical unless you have a very long focal length.

The dedicated ZWO filter is cheap and works fine on my ZWO290 camera. ZWO 1.25″ IR 850nm Pass Filter | First Light Optics I did pay more for the Baader one for my main imaging camera , a ZWO533mc Baader UV/IR Cut Filter | First Light Optics

Eyepieces are a standard size so any upgrade can be kept for a new scope if you change the telescope. The maximum usefull magnification will be limited by the telescope (aperature in the most part). The better eyepieces will give a sharper view with improved contrast but will only allow a small improvement in maximum magnification if any. Too much magnification can result in a less satisfactory "mushy" view. Upgrading from the generally poor included eyepieces does make a big improvement in image quality in almost every case , so is well worth doing.

They will be unlikely to all settle dead level like the video shows , though lots of laser levels manage it in the video (after how many takes 😆) But that should not be a big issue as you can always use shims and spacers to get them aligned, its just for the shell not the pier so you have a fair bit of leeway.