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Everything posted by Synchronicity

  1. Do you know if this will be recorded? If my calculations are correct that's 3am here so I won't be up unless it is a clear night. Thanks Michael
  2. Will you be guiding? Sharpcap PA works perfectly with my Starshoot Autoguider camera and an unbranded 50mm guide scope. One thing that has caught me out a few times is that you need to be aligned within a few degrees (5 I think) before the PA routine will work. Michael
  3. Sorry if this is too basic but are you starting from the correct home/parked position? I found this picture online which shows what it should be like. I'm in Bortle 8 light polluted area and can't see Polaris through the polar scope unless it is quite a clear night and the annoying red light is off! Try doing the setup with the power off and maybe you'll see something? All the best Michael
  4. These two documentaries about the New Horizons mission got me the same way. I watched them both twice in a row. I just intended to post the links but the system had other ideas! Michael
  5. I have the Esprit 80 and my heater is positioned alongside the lenses with the aim of keeping the glass warm. My thinking is that if the dew shield is colder than the glass then it will collect the dew and the glass will stay clear. Ive had this out for over 10 hours each of the the last 2 nights with temperatures at or below freezing and everything iced up by the end of the night but the glass has been clear throughout. I use a CooWoo lens warmer from Amazon. About £15 and runs from a USB supply. Cheap and effective. All the best Michael
  6. The people on astronomy or science forums, social media etc who think its funny to post "Aliens" every time someone asks about something they don't understand. After that, clouds, mistakes that waste hours worth of imaging time, made through inexperience. Clouds again. Michael
  7. The biggest barrier to a crewed mission to Mars is still solar and cosmic radiation exposure. He might have everything else ready but until that is solved only a very heavily shielded - and heavy - spacecraft can take people there. Michael
  8. If you have used external grade cables then sitting in standing water won't hurt them. If you haven't you might need to consider it - especially for the mains power. What is the length of the run in concrete (underground I'm assuming)? It's possible you have a crack somewhere which would let water seep in over time All the best Michael
  9. Mine arrived today - it's well worth the cost and hopefully Aston will keep going learning and writing about his interest. Michael
  10. I keep seeing these amazing L-enhance and L-extreme images and I'm sorely tempted! Thanks for sharing this. Michael
  11. Another bought here, fantastic to see so many of us support this young man!
  12. I bought a Canon 7d (mark 1) when I started about 3 years ago. I had just bought an Esprit 80 and an EQ5 mount so a dedicated camera was out of the question. With that setup I could learn everything I needed to know about setting up, guiding, capture and processing and I could also figure out exactly what I wanted to do and what I'd need to do it. Among the things I learned is that where I live and with the time I can spend large multi filter projects with a mono camera would be really difficult to achieve. I love what can be done with mono imaging but It's not for me at the moment. I've been fortunate enough to be able to upgrade my mount so now have a NEQ6 and I made a stupid impulse purchase of a QHY10 OSC camera a few months ago. I say stupid because the camera is not a good match to my scope (details here). A decent used DSLR can be picked up cheaply and, of course, can be used for normal photography too. That lets you take everything forward for a while and gives you time to decide what dedicated astro camera suits you best. Now that I have my new setup working well I am making a saddle for the DSLR to sit on top of the scope and I plan to have that taking wide-field data for whatever part of the sky I'm imaging. Smashings comment about the gear not holding him back right now is very pertinent. Once you have a setup that works consistently then you are practising everything else from framing to processing. So, no real advice, just some rambling thoughts and experience Michael
  13. There's a rig set up on another remote host site for sale on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=167104 I have no connection to this, just noticed it last night. Get 10 people together as a club, figure out a sharing protocol all can agree on and it's maybe doable? Michael
  14. I have 2 spare which have a 60 mm long thread. If that's any good to you PM me your details and I'll pop one in the post. I got them for my custom designed pier - couldn't find them for sale singly any cheaper than the pack of 4 was! Michael
  15. Have a look at the website https://www.lightpollutionmap.info/#zoom=9.45&lat=55.8555&lon=-4.1978&layers=B0FFFFFTFFFFFFFFFF This shows the sky 'darkness' and should be centred around Glasgow. You can then look at places you can get to and see what the difference is from where you are. All the best Michael
  16. I used these from Amazon. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B2HP3A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had 2 x10m running from my laptop USB port to an unpowered hub. That fed my Canon 7D, Starshoot Autoguider camera and EQ5 Pro mount. Only the SSAG was drawing power from the USB so I got away with it. I've just bought these and am setting them up for a link between my new pier and the house. They worked fine on a test cable but not used in anger yet. https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EV33R8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Michael
  17. If running cables where they might be affected by condensation they should ideally be run into the bottom of whatever they are going into - whether that's a device or a partition of some kind. If that can't be done then go in the side but position the cable with a 'swan neck' bend so that any condensation will run away from the termination. Providing a drip point lets you control where the water will end up. Michael
  18. Listening to one of my favourite podcasts today they report that Betelgeuse is about 25% smaller and closer than previous estimates. The article includes a chat with one of the papers authors. Michael. PS. No points for mentioning the Father Ted sketch!
  19. A Creality Ender 3 can be had for under £250 depending on the specific model. It has a build volume: 220x220x250mm Maybe you should just buy a 3d printer - it'll keep you occupied when the clouds won't go away Michael
  20. It's absolutely feasible. Roundness won't be an issue either but strength might depending on what it was used for. What about smoothness? Finer surfaces take much longer to print. Michael
  21. Why not ask on the forums there? The developer often responds in person. https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/ Michael
  22. I'll reply from my meagre store of experience. I have over 3 hours of M31 lights using a QHY10 OSC (-25c) which have similar noise and from seeing others unprocessed images I'd say yours were quite typical. A lot of the skill in processing seems to be in reducing noise while retaining faint detail. I'm surprised that you have spent twice the time taking darks as lights - more data is always going to improve an image. Hope that helps Michael
  23. “It pays to keep an open mind, but not so open your brains fall out.” — Carl Sagan
  24. Nothing to do with this sale but watch out if you buy these from Amazon. I bought the version with the temperature control a month or so ago. I was impressed so ordered another last week. I clicked on the item in my past orders and bought again. I received the version without the temperature control. Thinking I'd made a mistake in ordering I returned to my orders list and the link for the version with control now goes to the version without! Amazon are playing games with their stock holdings This is a great bit of kit and kept my Esprit 80 lens bone dry while the Canon 7d next to it was running with condensation! Michael
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