Synchronicity

I have attached the WBPP log file, a single flat frame and the master flat. When stretched with STF the single flat frame shows some of the detail you'd expect but at very low level but the master flat shows nothing at all. I used the Flats Aid in APT - Astro Photography Tool with a target ADU of 20,000 to take the flats. The log from APT shows I'm off to check if the target I used is correct for this camera. Thanks Michael F_Andromeda2_2503_Bin1x1_0.11383s__-15C_G111.fit masterFlat_BIN-1_5496x3672_FILTER-NoFilter_CFA.xisf 20231128000200.log

As expected, rerunning without Bias frames didn't change the outcome. Michael

Taken overnight 24th this month I have 120x90s exposures and 60x30s. I ran these through WBPP which I had reset to factory defaults. Apart from setting the output directory the only change I made was selecting the 'low quality' preset. This is the master of the 30s files. It has a strong gradient, possibly related to the Moon which was, I think about 90%. This is the 90s master which looks to me as if the Flat hasn't been processed? The 30s exposures were taken immediately after the 90s and the flats were done after that. I'm at a loss for what to do next. I read in a thread tonight that using Bias frames could affect the dark subtraction so I'm rerunning without those but I can't see how that could cause what I'm seeing. This is the WBPP summary screen. Any suggestions would be extremely welcome! #EDIT: Taken with Esprit 80 and L-Enhance filter. Thanks Michael

It could have been a small amount of corrosion on a connector that has cleared with removal and refitting. The two first steps I use in fault finding are checking the power and removing/replacing any connectors I can get to.🙂 Michael

I use this one for my laptop when we're off grid in the motor-home. Same idea but this is variable 15-20v. Doesn't seem to be in stock just now though. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071SDW4QG Michael

I can't offer any advice beyond checking the minimum move setting (can't remember the exact term). If your stuck the first video in this thread might help... https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/401913-phd2-calibration-talk/#comment-4312746 Michael

Have you tried plugging the camera directly into one of the computers USB ports? That should let you know if the camera is working ok and then it's got to be a hub or cable issue or possibly low power for the camera from the hub? HTH Michael

A decent CCTV camera and big, prominent warning signs. Michael

I'd be interested if anyone has an answer - I couldn't find any information on this. Michael

I've just discovered that all Zooniverse papers published in Monthly Notices of the Royal Astronomical Society are free to read online. The can be accessed at: https://academic.oup.com/mnras/pages/zooniverse_papers Enjoy!

I just got this by email. About Are we alone in the universe? Welcome! The UCLA SETI Group uses the largest fully steerable telescope on Earth to search for evidence of civilizations in the Galaxy. We use the 100 m Green Bank Telescope in West Virginia to scan stars and their planetary systems at radio frequencies with the goal of detecting signals emitted by radio beacons or other powerful radio emitters. So far, we have observed 40,000 stars and detected over 60 million radio signals. Help us identify the most promising signals and match signals to common classes of radio frequency interference (RFI). Your classifications will be used to train a machine learning algorithm that will accelerate the search by separating interesting signals from RFI. https://www.zooniverse.org/projects/ucla-seti-group/are-we-alone-in-the-universe?utm_source=newsletter&utm_id=AreWeAloneBeta21nov2022 Enjoy! Michael

I also use the GX12/16 connectors. I fitted a 12mm to my EQ6-R and have used the 16mm version for my 3d printed power distribution box. These ones are a decent quality, fine for the low current applications like astro equipment. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0989ZLP7N Michael

I posted a thread with a couple of PHD2 videos and one thing I realised from watching them was that any cable hanging loose is a risk but any cable hanging loose from a camera can induce movement and/or vibration in the camera. A small breeze or the cable shifting position as the mount tracks can be enough. It might not ruin the image but we do so much to ensure precision and improve image quality yet this seems to be a common blind spot. Michael

A simple USB hub or even a USB extender cable would probably do the trick. I have used a 10m active cable and shorter passive ones before with no problems. Michael

I've recently bought a ZWO ASI 183MC-PRO and my process was reasonably simple and similar to what you are doing. I searched for that camera and the others I was considering in this forum and read what was said. I searched https://www.astrobin.com for images taken with the camera and my scope - an Esprit 80. I entered the scope and camera spec into the Ocular settings in Stellarium and used that to get an idea of the framing and size of various targets I was considering. I did the same with the telescope simulator at https://telescopius.com/ For the detailed specification of the cameras I found that price was filtering them down anyway so the list wasn't too big! HTH Michael

I found another talk, this one about the guiding assistant. Michael

I'll second that opinion. I bought one of these a few months ago and so far it's doing the job nicely - mount on a pier though, the scope stays indoors. I always bring the cover indoors when I take it off and leave it positioned so that any dampness inside can dry off. We'll so how it lasts the winter though... Michael

I'm watching a video that popped up on my Youtube feed a couple of days ago. The Ins and Outs of PHD2 Calibration with Bruce Waddington, one of the PHD2 developers. Bruce starts by explaining what the basic intention of guiding is and then goes through how and why PHD2 does what it does and highlights several issues and misunderstandings. A thoroughly enjoyable watch and perfect for me as I have used PHD2 for several years by following the setup steps by rote but not really managed to understand what the displays are telling me. All the best Michael

Stellarium on the PC will do exactly that. Ensure the Oculars plugin is activated and there will be small window - top right corner in mine - that lets you set up your camera, lens etc. Michael

I 3d printed this for my power and data hub. Fixes in place of the polar scope cover. Michael

I'm still fiddling but plan to use a printed scale as suggested above, fixed on with clear sellotape along with a slightly modified one of these. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/393917-asi1600-utility-belt-with-rotation-pointer-3d-printed/#comment-4236946 Michael

That's an amazing image for a phone. I've just spotted an app called DeepSky Camera in the Google Play store. Time to investigate. Michael

From their website I found this on Astrobin. It seems kinda more what I was thinking about in that it maybe captures more "galactic cirrus" and bring out faint distant objects in the background. https://www.astrobin.com/7ez0pl/0/ Michael

There are several on Astrobin at https://www.astrobin.com/users/Big_Amateur_Telescope/ Michael

This is a thought experiment but my knowledge is too limited to get to the end of it, hence I'm asking the multimind here 😉 If all the imagers here concentrated on the same piece of sky for one or more nights we could amass thousands, or even tens of thousands of hours of data. Assuming we could share that data and filter it for quality, and had access to the computing power, what are the limitations which would stop someone combining that into an ultra deep field type of image? Would there be a limit to the magnitude imagable from within the atmosphere, would distant objects be too small to resolve or what else would limit what could be achieved? I'd be interested in everyones thoughts. Michael