Wiu-Wiu

I managed to crop the trunk itself out - and added some color.

Subs: 41x300s Telescope: Esprit 80ED Mount: Ioptron IEQ45pro Guiding and capturing: Asiair Asi 071mc pro - Duo narrowband filter (H-Alpha + O-III) Processing: Pixinsight. I opted to convert to grayscale as the colors weren't what I'd like them to be. Just cropped the edge to clean off the dithering

The RA swings to one side, then returns, but once the counterweight starts "rising" again, it quickly returns and finds equilibrium. DEC goes to one side (usually East first), then returns and keeps going to the other side until the clutch slips if I don't stop it. I usually let it balance in RA and then manually slew DEC to align that little screw on the DEC saddle with what looks like the middle of the mount. For the record: I usually polar align with the polar scope level (6 at 6 o'clock) - then rotate both axis to the starting ('zero') position - then start star alignment. But usually first alignment is off quite a bit. Which is curious, singe the mount has GPS.

Maybe a silly question, but I have been wondering about this... Especially since my mount only finds zero position in RA (DEC keeps slewing so I need to stop it and set it manually) Ioptron polar scopes are not always inserted perfect level to the 'zero' position (scope perfectly straight on top). Some are rotated - that's why the polar scope has a bubble level attached to it. When you polar align, you need to rotate the axis so the polar scope bubble level is horizontal - that way you can place polaris at the exact spot on the "watch". My question: is the preferred zero position the position where the bubble level is leveled (thus the spot in which you polar align the mount? Or is the zero position still the spot where the scope is sitting on top (and the bubble level may be rotated) (The auto zero position in RA is where the scope is on top) Does it even matter?

Ccdt67 image inspection if the “best” image I reached with it. Image train: I feel it might be the precise location of the telecompressor into the 2” fitting that is off. I tried to reach about 1 - 1.5mm on the inside of the fitting, as seen on the internet, but still no round stars in the corners. (Nor in the guidescope of the OAG) I don’t like the fact it varies too much, depending the placing. I rather like reducers that are screw-on or that have stopping rings.

Hello Olly; thanks for your comment! I chose my camera mainly to image on my 127mm ED apo; the Edge came in after that. I DO like imaging smaller objects, but this range (fl/chip size) is beyond my comfort zone, I admit. Seeing that night was extraordinary for Belgian weather, so that picture is 50% of our excellent nights for this year right there. I am eyeballing a 120 Esprit to replace the 127mm (Better quality glass) - and was hoping to keep the camera going on that one; and the odd planetary on the C11. Would you have chosen another camera? (take in mind I have to keep it transportable, and do not want a laptop in the field; Asiair takes care of that - so camera had to be supported) As for the spots: It looks like it is frost, forming on irregularities on the sensor. I will clean the sensor as advised by ZWO, and regenerate/replace the desiccant pills. I'll try to store the camera away from moisture and hope to be able to get any remaining spots out with post-processing.

Got him! Banding in background because I didn't wait for the camera to come to temperature. Another lesson learned

Thank you! I noticed the black spots are in the same place as some dark spots in another picture, with the same camera, on another scope. I am afraid it might be frost. Anyone any advice on what to do?

I seem not to be able to get my CCDT67 telecompressor (reducer) working on my C11 edge, as I keep getting coma and elongated stars to the corners. So last night I took it out and boldly set off to guiding off axis on the native 2800mm focal length. Mount used was my CEM 60, guiding and imaging software through the ASIAIR. Imaging camera: asi 071 - 2x2 binning. NO darks, flats, bias,... just stacking in APP. NO filters, as it was just a test, moon was just over first quarter and I live in Bortle 6. 200 frames were used (30s each so total integration time to a round 100 minutes) I think guiding and sharpness went pretty well, although I might add an extra autofocuser if I keep using this setup. Very pleased of the result, although STUNNED to see that much dirt in my optical train The bunnies might be on the camera sensor window (although I cleaned the outside that day, I think they must be on the inside), the dark spots appear to be ON the sensor 😤 Any advice on cleaning this? Before I start opening up the camera... (Camera is new, 4 to 5 months old) Other feedback is also VERY welcome!

Does anyone know how I could make best use of this powerbar? It looks like it’s a power hub and mini pc in one, but I can’t really find a way to install it.

Sounds a lot like my setup - except for the observatory (but I'm thinking of some sort of roll off shed). I opted to use asiair as I often take my gear out to dark locations - camera control: check - Guiding: check - Dithering: check - possibility to use autofocus is coming, and I heard they confirmed Polar Alignment yesterday. - local storage of images: check - no laptop or mini pc at the pier (and thus no need for extra power) : check - Telescope control (goto/platesolving/Skysafari sync): check All remote on the tablet from the comfort of my home - but thruth commands me to say it is not that far away. 8 meter should work. 15 meter is too far. I do have a mini PC/powerhub (EAGLE ripoff) but I have still to figure that one out (it was given to me). For the moment I have no need for it.

You could go back to basics and mix in some topics devoted to sketching

very nice work! How are you preventing your roll off roof from becoming a fly off roof?

Orion, on the right: They definately saw more stars than we are used to seeing

1 to 5 mW (green) is plenty to use under the night sky. As stated above: check with police, as it could be forbidden where you live.

Also depends where you want to be imaging and how much battery power you want to be bringing along. For me, local storage and operating has also been a great factor. Since the asiair, I was able to transfer from dslr to cooled camera, since it not only saves my subs, but also takes care of the dithering and guiding. but the dslr will still be kept in business for the times where portability is key, and I have no access to net current.

The Esprit 150 is on my bucket list in the very distant future. Very distant, because of the price. A TAK is simply out of range for me, and I just couldn't justify spending that amount of money if something equally good was available. Having said this, let's talk mounts.. Having a 127mm apo myself, and having the same prospects, I have recently invested in upgrading my mounts. I have no observatory so portability has been a great part of the equasion, but -and not least- has been the cost of such a mount. I have invested in iOptron mounts (and with A LOT of pleasure), and while the CEM 60 might still be portable and will probably carry an Esprit 150 and do an OK job (because it is heavy, but also rather small), if I would have a fixed observatory, I'd probably go for a CEM 120. So why not save yourself a lot of money on both ends and get something "as good as" for "a lot less" ?

It might eventually lead to that. I am just THAT tech-minded.

I can't seem to find a lot of info on the QHYCCD Astrobar 1 - only that it seems to be discontinued. I think this piece of equipment is very similar to the EAGLE (Primalucelab). I have one and would like to see if it would be handy to incorporate it into my setup. What can I make it do for me? I was thinking to put it in charge of dew heating and autofocus, but it looks like it could also take control over my camera, guiding and goto. (ascom pre-installed) Any ideas?

Mooi! Succes!

For what it's worth, Deepskylog has a feature to attach your sketch to your observation, next to the eleaborate possibilities the site offers. You can also look up sketches and observations from other users, with similar or different equipment,... anyway, check it out, it's free.