Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep24_banner.thumb.jpg.56e65b9c9549c15ed3f06e146fc5f5f1.jpg

Pankaj

Members
  • Content Count

    313
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

124 Excellent

1 Follower

About Pankaj

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    10" Skywatcher Dobson, 5" self made reflector on EQ mount, Orion ST 80A, SW 130 PDS, SP 25mm, 12.5mm, Plossl 10mm, 7.5mm, Ultrawide 6mm, 2x Barlow, Baader Solar filter, Orion Laser Collimator, Neq6 (version 4), Zap gun, Canon 1200D, Datyson T7M Guide cam
  • Location
    India
  1. WOW ! the image also has a galaxy that is 470 million LY away. Forgot the name of the galaxy though. It can be seen as a faint smudge in the picture at the 8 O' Clock position from the center of the cluster.
  2. Awesome image. Sharp & crisp with lot of details.
  3. Wow. Simply ''out of this world'' picture. Were you sitting on the Hubble telescope while click it ?
  4. Yes. 533 MC PRO COOLED COLOR (USD 1088) and 183 PC PRO COOLED COLOR (USD 985). Prices and specs checked on FLO.
  5. Just checked doing a comparison on astronomy tools between 533mc and 183mc. The FOV re almost the same except that the 533 is square'ish'. Are u sure its got no am glows? I was about to order a 183mc, but stopped after seeing your post. No harm in saving 100 USD if 533 is better off than 183 in terms of amp glow. Please advice
  6. I would bet my money on Skywatcher EQ6R. tried and tested by many. Having said that, I would reiterate what some one else also noted on this thread - the f6 8'' is a long tube. It will act like a sail in slight breeze and resulting in vibrations that will spoil your photos. Also note that the f6 would give you a very short field of view (FOV) making it difficult to capture large DSOs, and galaxy like M31 within the available FOV. You may want to try either 100-120mm APO or a SW 130PDS or 150PDS in case of reflectors. Check out the ''astronomy tools'' website for calculating FOV. Guiding and tracking will also require excellent skills with an F6
  7. Did lot of research regarding pricing and sensor size. So here's where I land in making up my mind - 1. I need a cooled camera only for DSO and Galaxy imaging. Not for Planetary imaging. 2. Three choices - ASI 294 MC PRO , ASI 1600 MM PRO , ASI 071 MC PRO Of the above 294 MC PRO is a cooled color camera so wont need to invest in a filter/wheel hence I spend approx 1200 USD. 1600 MM PRO is MONO camera so I'll have to invest in filter wheel and filters which totals up to 1879 USD. 071 MC PRO is color. So I wont need to invest in filters and can shop this for 1870 USD SO MY POINT IS, can't I go in for the ASI 294MC PRO. Its FOV though smaller than 071 MC PRO, is still equivalent 1600 MM PRO and fits in the entire Markarian Chain which kind of would serve my purpose. Unless of course the 294MC PRO lacks something in it which would create a problem in DSO/GALAXY imaging. Please help me in deciding this.
  8. Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Using astronomy tools i did a comparison about the FOV. Attached is the screenshot. It seems the ASI 183 MM has a narrower FOV as compared to my existing DSLR. Hope I have chosen the correct 183MM ?
  9. Hi all. To bring out detail in a DSO something like M42 which has great variation in brightness, subs of different exposure and ISO settings are stancked. I read in an old thread that subs of different exposure and ISO settings (along with their darks & bias frames) can be loaded in DSS as ''1st group'' and ''2nd group''. However, the DSS that I use, has only one category names as ''Main Group'' which is at the bottom of the this screenshot attached. Please advice how do I stack these images of different settings in DSS
  10. I have gone through the list of cooled cameras on FLO but unable to make up my mind due to lack of experience and hence a bit reluctant to shed out so much money without being sure.
  11. Hi. Was looking at buying a new cooled camera for AP. Till now I was using a DSLR Canon1200D but wanted to get rid of that huge amount of noise that shows up in long exposure high ISO settings. Being a resident of India, the climate too is getting hot and would reach 45 degrees making the sensor ever hot. I presume there are separate cooled cameras for planetary and DSO imaging. But obviously due to budget constraints I cannot buy both. However, my main targets will be the DSOs and Galaxies for which the FOV required will be large. Kindly suggest an entry-intermediate level cooled camera suitable for DSOs and Galaxies. I can spare about a 1000 USD.
  12. Visual and Astrophotography (AP) are totally different and require different equipment. I suggest you start visual with a minimum 8'' dobson if not a 10''. I own a 10'', F5 which gives me great views of Venus, Jupiter, Saturn, many binary stars, star clusters, globulars from my bortle 9 sky in New Delhi. But dont expect to see images as you see in photographs. A look at the Moon through it, would make u jump in excitement. As you will move to darker skies you will be astonished to see that the views would get significantly better. From a Bortle 3-4 sky, even the galaxies and the fainter nebulae are within easy reach. It allows one to learn the sky chart and find targets through star hopping. Later u can jump in AP. But my sincere suggestion is not to go below a 130pds (if not 150pds) mounted on a HEQ5 (if not NEQ6).
  13. I too experience this on my 130pds. Never thought that light could leak in through the camera's viewfinder. Thanks for sharing. Also, how about the coma sneaking towards the center of the image ? Was that due to camera tilting ?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.