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Everything posted by Chefgage
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Sorry no advice, but very nice images.
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Good question it was a while ago. I will have used my BST 18mm to first locate it and then used my BST 8mm to observe it (I have found it before with the 25mm that came with the scope and then swopping that for a higher power one, again with what came with the scope). He way I would find it is as follows. Using the BST 18mm I would get the star Sheliak in the field as view to the extreme right as shown below. I would then centre the ring nebula and then swop out the eyepiece for the BST 8mm one as shown below. The first image shows the 18mm eyepiece and the second image is the 8mm eyepiece.
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Just to let you know I have observed the ring nebula a few times in my 200p. Quite noticeable even in my bortle 8 ish skies.
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The one I use for my canon 200d is this one. Not sure if I got it from there though https://www.subtel.co.uk/index.php?cl=details&offerId=5420371701&lang=1&anid=916620&cnid=6e17000500187291d07f3d04dae4fc49&campaign=co.uk-pla/KZ_Fernbedienung/916620&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIH7BRAbEiwAoDxxTjdFPyPxkgkTTr4c-iDM7zjo8VM6y6K3TgDj1iS6xUtvqDWHc59FZhoC4eUQAvD_BwE
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No that does not sound normal. The only interval between exposures that I need to set is 5 seconds. This is based on my camera/SD card needing a 5 second interval between images to record the data.
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That was the same for my area minus the fog. Clear sky app was showing red for few but strangely enough I observed no dew at all while imaging. I had my dew heater on but usually everything else is wet, but not last night. To the OP the last time I had dew it looked more uniform across the image, almost like thin clouds had rolled in.
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I though Dark frames are temperature dependent. So the dark frames need to be done at each session??
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Imaging with a Star Adventurer
Chefgage replied to M Astronomy's topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Nice image. I have managed to get a couple of hours of subs on this target myself this week. Just need to sit down and spend some time processing it. -
But if an update. I carried out the same imaging session last night. Only this time I did not use the CLS clip in light pollution filter. The results were that the red halos around the brighter stars were still there but are now a lot smaller and less in number. After a bit of reading it seems the lens I am using (canon 75 to 300mm) is quite prone to CA, and coupled with the filter and modified DSLR will often produce the halos. So for this lens I will not use the filter (a pity as it does give a good image) although I suppose the halos can be sorted in processing.
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Fine adjustment of camera lens focus
Chefgage replied to Chefgage's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Looks good. I was thinking about buying the one I linked but then reading the reviews it seems it's made out of some softish metal so the threads are a bit on the loose side. Making it not that good. I like the look of the one you have shown so I will keep my eye out. Failing that I will have a go at making my own. I have plenty of bits at home that I could maybe knock something up. -
Happens to us all I have forgot to focus at all before now. I have been very impressed with my framing. Carried out all the subs and darks then realised I never checked the focus! My usual one now to forget is checking the histogram. The amount of times I have focused, done my test shots then totally forgot about checking the histogram before then taking all the subs.
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Hello all. I have been looking at methods of improving my focusing of my canon lenses. I tiny movement can cause the lens to be out of focus. Couple this with trying to do it in the dark and with the added addition of a dew heater the focus can easily be knocked out of position. I saw these but they don't have the best reviews that I have seen. So has anyone used these type or any other designs that they can recommend? https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3284_Mikrofokussierer-mit-Fixierung-fuer-Tele-Objektive-bis-D---105mm.html
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On further reading it could be that the CLS clip in light pollution filter could be causing internal reflections which can produce red halos around stars. Anyone had this problem? I will do the same imaging session tonight but without the CLS clip in filter and see if that makes a difference.
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I have recently had my canon 200d modified. The modification done was just the standard mod NOT the full spectrum mod. However after imaging last night I was getting a lot of red halos around the brighter stars and most stars appeared red. The red halos I am led to believe show when the camera has had a full spectrum mod and a IR filter (such as a clip in filter) has not been added when imaging. So is it possible to test a DSLR to see which modification has been done? Just so I can confirm that maybe the wrong mod has been done.
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Difference between 200 + 300
Chefgage replied to popeye85's topic in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice
Try one of the online field of view calculators. You can put in your scope details and target and it shows you what it will look like in terms of size in the eye piece. You can have more than one type of scope/eyepiece combination so you can compare. This one for example. https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ -
No not yet. But I will do soon and share the result.
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Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I am very happy with what I achieved with the data I collected and processed. My processing skills are improving, so I will keep at it.
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Thanks, I will give this a go.
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Thanks, I will give it a watch.
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Thanks, I will take a look.