Chefgage

I have just done some gradient removal on the same target. I use GIMP to process and used the despeckle tool to remove the gradient. Worked quite well. This is the image, ignore the first image in the post.

I have just done a gradient removal in GIMP using the despeckle tool. Have a look at my M42 post below yours to see a before and after.

Managed to process out the gradient that was showing on the left (due to orion being low which picks up sky glow being that the left hand side of the image is pointing down towards the horizon). Used the despeckle option in GIMP and then subtracted this from the original image. Lost a bit of the faint nebulosity but as this was a first attempt at removing the gradient I am more than happy

Cheers for that. Never thought of switching to desktop version on mobile. On mobile version of the webpage it does not show the browse option. Must be too early in the morning! Thanks again.

Hello all. How do you get to the members Gallery section. I know it exists, I have seen it when searching but for the life of me I cannot get to it from the home section??

That's ok then

Am I going mad or did I read this thread ages ago even though it's showing as started on Monday???

When creating a star mask using the 'by colour select method' is there a way to deselect a star from the star mask. I ask this as when creating a star mask while processing the Andromeda galaxy the star mask selects the core of the galaxy which then creates a strange circle within it. So if I could deselect this region when creating the mask this would solve this.

At the moment I just save my images to the DSLR memory card. You don't have to save the images into the asiair memory card. I use my asiair to polar align and guide and that's it (that's not to say I will use more of the functions at a later date).

I do have the ability to dither using the asiair pro, just not got round to doing it yet but it's next in the list.

Actually no. I have stopped using darks as I cannot see any real difference when I use them. I have read a few threads on here of people saying not to bother with darks when using a DSLR as it is not cooled therefore there can be a wide temperature difference over the taking of the light frames so the darks will not be effective or could make it worse. I have tried using darks with my canon 200d and then not using them and I cannot really make out any difference so I have stopped taking them.

Thanks. I tried quite a few different work flows in GIMP, this was one of the earlier images produced which seemed to work better.

Star adventurer pro ASIAIR pro Skywatcher ED72 OVL field flattener Canon 200D modified CLS filter ZWO ASI120mm mini guide scope ISO 800 EXP 180s Lights 53 Darks 0 Flats 20 Bias 40 Moon percentage 77% Half way through image session moon angular distance 29° 29' 46.8" Total exposure time 2 hr 39 mins Struggled to process this one but given that the Moon was at 77% and at a apparent separation of 29° 29' 46.8" half way through the session I suppose this is to be expected.

Star adventurer pro ASIAIR pro Skywatcher ED72 OVL field flattener Canon 200D modified CLS filter ZWO ASI120mm mini guide scope ISO 800 EXP 180s Lights 53 Darks 0 Flats 20 Bias 40 Moon percentage 77% Half way through image session moon angular distance 29° 29' 46.8" Total exposure time 2 hr 39 mins Struggled to process this one but given that the Moon was at 77% and at a apparent separation of 29° 29' 46.8" half way through the session I suppose this is to be expected.

I have taken 20 flat frames. Each individual flat looks ok. They show a colour change in the corners. When DSS creates the master flat, this comes out looking like a dark frame i.e. changes from the light/bright looking image and changes to a totally black one. Is this normal?

Very nice. I have decided tonight that I don't need my Ha filter for the horse head. Sod the moon, let's see what I get.

Excellent image, you have every right to be pleased. That object is the next on my list to image.

Thanks. Still getting a bit of gradient from left to right. If I can crack that I will be happy.

The last time I imaged the Orion nebula was in February 2020. I was just starting out imaging. This first image is the one I took in February 2020 using a Canon 200D (unmodified) using a canon lens at 200mm, I seem to think. This was done with no tracking. The second image is one I took last night. I am quite happy in the progress I have made in the last year with my imaging. Especially as there has not been many nights out under the stars!!! Star adventurer pro ASIAIR pro Skywatcher ED72 OVL field flattener Canon 200D modified CLS filter ZWO ASI120mm mini guide scope ISO 800 EXP 180s Lights 25 Darks 0 Flats 20 Bias 40 Total exposure time 1 hr 15 mins Stacked in DSS and processed in GIMP.

Managed to get out three times this year. One time I got some good data, the other two not so much with problems with power and tangled cables.

I fondly remember doing that! Took me a couple of minutes before I realised.

Read through this thread but did not see it but when you are taking your images on your DSLR can you not set it to take raw (.cr2) and jpg's at the the same time. That's what I do as I sometimes just want one the the raw images as a jpg (saves having to convert it). Also to view the raw files before stacking them (so you can throw out the bad ones) use Adobe bridge. It's a free download and quite handy for viewing the raw files as it has a handy magnifying glass that can be positioned on the raw image. Then when you click on the other raw images the magnifying glass stays in position so you can compare star shapes between images.

Had a bit of spare time so I decided to have another go at processing this data seeing as though I am destined for lots and lots more cloud over the next week. Tried something different with my work flow. I think it looks better, still plenty of noise but from the small amount of data plus no darks this is to be expected.

Managed to get 1 hr and 18 minutes of NGC 1499 California Nebula in Hydrogen Alpha before all hell broke loose with star trails, the object moving off out of frame and then star trails in the shape of question marks. I had a few issues with power and cables deciding to wrap themselves around various parts of the rig. The framing was all wrong. It took me quite a while to find and frame the nebula that at that point I just wanted some data. The nebula needs to be turned 90 degrees, that way I can fit it all in. Equipment. Modified Canon 200D, Star adventurer pro, Skywatcher ED72, Hydrogen alpha filter, Guided using ASIAIR pro. 39 Light frames. Exposure 120 seconds at ISO 1600. Stacked in DSS and processed (quickly) in GIMP.

Managed to get 1 hr and 18 minutes of NGC 1499 California Nebula in Hydrogen Alpha before all hell broke loose with star trails, the object moving off out of frame and then star trails in the shape of question marks. I had a few issues with power and cables deciding to wrap themselves around various parts of the rig. The framing was all wrong. It took me quite a while to find and frame the nebula that at that point I just wanted some data. The nebula needs to be turned 90 degrees, that way I can fit it all in. Equipment. Modified Canon 200D, Star adventurer pro, Skywatcher ED72, Hydrogen alpha filter, Guided using ASIAIR pro. 39 Light frames. Exposure 120 seconds at ISO 1600. Stacked in DSS and processed (quickly) in GIMP.