Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_30_second_exp_2.thumb.jpg.7719b6f2fbecda044d407d8aba503777.jpg

cathalferris

Members
  • Content Count

    530
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

137 Excellent

2 Followers

About cathalferris

  • Rank
    Proto Star

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Whitewater and surf kayak, computer networks/gaming, XC/DH mountainbike, road biking, driving and improving cars, general gearhead/tinkerer!
  • Location
    Castletroy, Co. Limerick. Ireland
  1. 4.7mm, 8.8mm, and 18mm eyepieces now sold, thank you Paul. 24mm and 31mm still available.
  2. I recently had the same conundrum. I had updated my main scope to a 20" Dob, and I wanted to get the best widest field. This led me to a choice of getting either of an Ethos 21mm, or an ES-100 25mm, as I wanted a 100 degree eyepiece for this role. I already had a 31mm 82 degree Celestron eyepiece but that focal length was too large an exit pupil for my eyes - hence the shorter focal length and wider FOV requirement. In the end I went for the ES eyepiece, as it's got just that much more of a true FOV. In that 20" scope the difference was an FOV of 65.2' against the Ethos' 54.5'. Regarding aberrations it's being used with a Paracorr in an f/3.94 newt and my own eyes have a little bit of astigmatism anyway (awaiting a new prescription to get some astro-specific contacts) so I was happy enough to go the ES route. Using that eyepiece over the past few clear evenings, I've been happy with that decision. It would have been a much harder choice on which to buy if TV had made an Ethos 24 though..
  3. PM answered. Update on box status and conditions: Luminos 31mm - Near perfect condition, I still have the original plastic wrap from the eyepiece for this one. UWA 24mm - Box on the missing list, I could not locate this one last night. Eyepiece would be shipped appropriately packaged and protected. UWA 18mm - Near-perfect box condition. UWA 8.8mm - Very very good condition box. UWA 4.7mm - Good condition box. If anyone needs box pictures, please let me know.
  4. Pics of the eyepieces here. The boxes are not pristine, but pics of those will be tomorrow, as they are at the old house (I'm in the process of moving house). The eyepieces have been well used, but well cared for. All of the eyepieces, front and top views. Luminos 31mm, 1160 grams weight, bought new in ~2015: Meade UWA 5000 24mm, purchased secondhand about 4 years ago: Meade UWA 5000 18mm, at least 6 years old, purchased new. Meade UWA 5000 8.8mm, also purchased new, at least 6 years old Meade UWA 5000 4.7mm, purchased secondhand in May 2018: Any questions please ask.
  5. For sale: Meade series 5000 UWA 82 degree FOV eyepieces, with original boxes and original eyepiece caps: 24mm - £80 18mm - £80 8.8mm - £50 4.7mm - £50 Celestron Luminos 82 degree eyepiece, also with end caps and box: 31mm - £130 £350 if all purchased all together. Postage will be from Ireland at cost, should be less than £20 equivalent to the UK, but this can be discussed. Optics in very good condition, very nice views through all of these. These eyepieces were my main eyepieces until I recently bought some 100-degree eyepieces that span the same focal lengths and fields of view. Now these 82-degree eyepieces are for sale to make room in the eyepiece case as they are not being used enough, and I'd like to see someone else get the same joy I got from these. Thanks, -Cathal
  6. A note on the RPi 3B+ - there are apparently problems with transfer of large files across the wired network to/from USB disks. I've run into this on mine at least. Seems to be an issue with the network card driver based on the reports I've read so far. Rather annoying at the moment, getting tempted to get a RPi3b instead until it's solved. I've mine set as a NAS with a handful of services running on it for my rather large home network - pi-hole, motion, Plex, samba server, smokeping, deluge. The difference in power draw means the Pi pays for itself within the year compared to the little PC I had running those services instead. Those services are fairly heavy on both cpu and network!
  7. Question - must the voltage be 13.8v, or would 12v be enough if it doesn't dip under load? A half-decent PC PSU would be well able to consistently deliver >20A at 12v, and generally low RFI given the use inside the PC case faraday cage. Also those PSUs should maintain 12V under load. It may be a cheaper option if you're willing to solder a few connections for the power plugs. This is definitely the route I'm taking to power items if/when I get myself any permanent observing area.
  8. Ah, that would be the site that in August 2012 likely had their database quietly cracked and the list of valid user emails exported off-site to be used by spammers. I had an account on there, with a site-specific email used for the registration. Then, when I started to see emails from spammers going to that specific email address, I raised that query with the admins on the site. Their first reaction to being told that they may have had a breach of some type was for them to permaban me from the site. That was a rather suspicious move at the time. There were other users of the site that confirmed similar behaviour with their own site-specific email addresses suddenly receiving spam emails. Given how poorly they appeared to have their site secured and run, it would not surprise me in the slightest that they have run into what looks like a breach. If they come back up - treat the situation as though they have had a data breach. If you use that username or password anywhere else on the net please make sure to change those passwords, and prevent your other accounts getting abused.
  9. I'm just chasing down a bit of a personal curiosity, if anyone else had a scope similar to my first proper scope, that would have been made in Scotland in the very early '90s. My first "real" telescope after my 60mm Tasco was one imported new to Ireland from Scotland, back in late 1990 or so. It was a 222mm f/5.6 Newt, bought from an ad in the back of Astronomy Now. The scope was fairly simple in construction by current standards, but was huge and amazing by my standards as a kid of the time. The tube was built of a blue Hammerite painted sewer pipe, with the mirror glued to a felt backing, glued to a metal plate that had the collimation bolts attached. The finder used remounted 50mm binocular optics and there were 18mm and 25mm "volcano-top" kellners provided. The mount was a basic German Equatorial, with ~3" setting circles and manual slowmotion controls. There was a little engraved plaque on the side of the polar axis. The plaque on the GEM was, as far as I can remember, "Solis Scientific, Glasgow". It cost a pretty penny too, somewhere in the £800 range. Still managed to see Stephan's Quintet and the Shoemaker-Levy-9 impacts on Jupiter with it so I have plenty of fond memories. I got curious recently to see what happened that company, and the people involved, and if anyone else had purchased one of those scopes. I found a listing here of the company but unsurprisingly the company itself is no longer in existence. There are references also to a Mr John Braithwaite who was a director of that company, and may have been the person that actually made the scope. So, did anyone here have any experience of Solis Scientific and their telescopes, built in Scotland in the late '80s and early '90s?
  10. This is my realistic money-no-object scope: https://www.astromart.com/articles/article.asp?article_id=829 A 28" f/2.75 light bucket, no ladders, driven, artisan-level build quality, big-name optics. Plus, it would be transportable by myself thought I think I would need a small trailer. We can all dream!
  11. I used have an ETX-70, and I was able to align pretty much every time in the daytime by doing the following: Level the tripod, such that the mounting plate was level in all directions. Attach scope to tripod, approximately north. Switch on, and perform a fake alignment, just selecting "okay" when prompted for stars. Select something bright such as the Moon or Jupiter or the Sun, and goto. Loosen the azimuth clutch and sweep by hand in azimuth until the bright object is in view, and re-tighten the clutch. The goto will have set the appropriate altitude if the level and location were correct. If needed, zero in by loosening clutches and moving by hand, as the handset thinks that it is already pointing at the target, you're just ensuring that this is the case. Done. I could align on the Moon and then goto Jupiter and have it in the eyepiece, then goto Saturn. Saturn was hard to see against the background of the sky, but mag 0 and 1 stars were possible daytime. It's a nice party trick. This method of daytime alignment relies on the build quality of the mount to be good enough that the azimuth plane is close to the tripod plate, and that it's possible to loosen the azimuth clutch. At least with the FOV of the ETX, it wasn't that big of a deal. It should be easy enough to get your scope day aligned by either using this method or adapting it to the specifics of your mount.
  12. ^ Indeed, my UHC and rather decrepit OIII filters have gotten to the point where the handwritten numbers have faded almost completely off. I should document those, or track down the original sale numbers. The OIII filter I bought used and cheap, as the coatings were deteriorating around the extremity, but the center portion was fine. The center portion is also the only part that would be used at moderate to high magnifications after all. Sounds like it might still be a better operator than the current offerings from the same company.
  13. One wonders if those threads have been hidden pending a possible lawsuit by the new owners of Lumicon. It would be pretty standard business behaviour to take legal action against a forum where the postings (especially when moderated) may materially affect the business. I wouldn't expect to see those threads again anytime soon, and that's a pity. I think that Lumicon as a brand will be killed very effectively by this kind of situation where the new products are seen to be substandard. Lumicon have only one real choice here to survive - the new owners should take great pains to fix the problems and to be seen to fix those problems that the customers are seeing. The Lumicon brand will be seen as worthless by the community otherwise, and the fact that the threads detailing the issues are hidden does not bode well for decent customer service for Lumicon customers.
  14. Books ordered, just waiting now for the next two Annals to be picked and sent on their way..
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.