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astronomer2002

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About astronomer2002

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    Maidenhead

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  1. I'm afraid to say the problem has reoccurred as soon as I ran the scope at night for 20 mins. I have taken everything indoors and the Gemini has run the motors for 4 hours without an issue. Although I cannot see degradation on the board around the external handbox socket I suspect your analysis is correct. It is really weird that the system will run fine for a few mins before succumbing to the cycling menu issue. I'd have thought that if it was moisture on the main board then it would happen as soon as it was turned on rather than after running for a period of time. The board would
  2. Peter, Thankyou for this explanation and images. I looked for the problem but there was no moisture I could detect on the board and the issue still occurred when the board had been removed from the case and brought inside the house to examine it more thoroughly. When I took it back to the observatory to try it during the day, with the board hanging in mid air in a warm dry observatory, (Sun was out!) the issue was still there. I admit I bit the bullet and sent my main board and controller to David Partridge for assessment as I could see no deterioration or measure any short. He t
  3. Peter, Thankyou for your suggestion - I was hopeful! I took the motherboard out of it's case and let it hang down on the brick pillar with all cables attached. On startup things looked good as I was able to put in the details lost when I changed the battery last night. However, very shortly afterwards the issue reoccurred. Menu items started scrolling but no button had been pressed or could be pressed. I tried stressing the cable joint to the main board - no effect. I even tried stressing the board itself in case there was an unseen crack - no effect. Very odd, just don't kno
  4. After using Gemini 1 system on my Mi250 mount for many years it has developed a very odd fault. I am using it just with the hand controller and sidereal mode to slew to Mars for imaging. I just use it in sidereal mode so I can nudge the planet back to the middle of the sub-chip ROI I have chosen. I have used this method on planets for over 15 years. All goes well for 15-30 mins and then the hand box lights up and starts scrolling through menu items some of which I have never seen. I cannot get it to accept input from any button on the hand controller. When it is doing this teh scope some
  5. The one on abs was not from the UK and close to new price. Posted an ad on abs this morning and got an offer straight away. It's on the way tomorrow in time for Mars (hopefully) I'm sure a lot of high priced short eyepieces never get used so it surprises me how difficult they are to get hold of. Just hope this is the last eyepiece purchase for me! Ian B
  6. I am looking for a Vixen HR 3.4mm eyepiece. I have a 2.4 and it is great on a good night, but usually a bit too much power for my FLT132. Is there a chance you have one that you don't use? Thanks for looking Ian B
  7. Thankyou for all who posted suggestions, they have all been very helpful. As I said initially I have no knowledge of this scope and was working on the assumption there was an issue as my friend, who has had it for many years, indicated it no longer worked. I have finally got it to work properly in alt-az mode. The key was to start with the scope pointing North and to have the single arm on the west side of the mount. My process was: Switch on Pont scope at Polaris (suggested here) Move tube to horizontal with aid of spirit level Set time and date
  8. Thankyou all for the heads up on date and time needed to be entered every time - seems it is a design feature rather than an issue just with this scope. Still not sure if there is a battery somewhere that needs replacing to keep the entered data, or is it that one of the eproms is written to each time you enter anything? I'm used to hidden batteries in handsets or mother boards that die after a few years. I'm running the scope off 12v 5a power supply that I use on several modern mounts, a lot simpler and cheaper than 8 AA batteries. I tried it with rechargeables but it didn't like th
  9. Thankyou for the suggestions. I'm sure the date is correct way round as there is no month 18! From the Instruction Manual there appears to be no reference to date and time if yo are doing a 2 star alignment. I would really like to know whether 2 star alignment needs all the date and time elements to be correct and the tube pointed North before it will work. It seems unlikely as it is relatively hard to get to the date, time etc through the menu. I would also have thought the date and time would be accurate after the scope had been turned off for a couple of days rather than simply r
  10. This topic has just reminded me of my endless fights with dew on refractors, reflectors and SCT's. Nothing really worked better for me than a long, cheap, black art drawing paper dew shield held on with elastic bands. Tried it out of desperation once when at a school outreach session and it stopped the sct from dewing up. The soft black drawing paper came from their art dept! Worked better than any purchased dew shield! Worst scope for dewing up I have at the moment is a truss RC. the main mirror goes almost as soon as the secondary. If I heat the secondary the main mirror still cur
  11. I sympathise with your problem Matt. I have struggled with this for years. I tried Dew shields, multiple bands desiccant in the tube etc. Trouble is the air is so moist in this country at this time of year. The only way I found to hold it off for a while is to thoroughly heat the tube and corrector with a hair dryer about 15 mins before observing. It cools down just in time for visual use and a few mins longer for imaging. Then I have 1/2 an hour to an hour before the corrector dews up again. I have heard some flocking material does a decent job of holding off dewing. I cork lined
  12. I am trying to help a friend set up his old Nexstar 8 and it's got me beat at the moment. The telescope is an original version from the 1990's and has a hand unit version of 2.12.12.6 I have checked the stored location is in the UK though I believe the 2 star alignment process for alt-az use doesn't use this. The date and time are also correct, though I notice it does not keep date and time up to date. When switched on it displays the date and time of the day it was last used. Maybe this is a clue? I don't know if this is how the scope is supposed to behave. Anyway.........
  13. Thankyou for offering to scan constellation lists. I have actually been offered one via UKABS and now have it! Ian B
  14. Thankyou for the offer - there's rather a lot of pages though! I have the Cambridge double star atlas but the format of the Sissy Haas will ensure I don't miss any. Bonkers prices on the Internet for an amateurs reference book . I have been hoping to get a copy for nearer the £20 mark It's another item that I suspect many have but never actually use any more. Ian B
  15. Thought I would post an update to this saga. Having tried the 41 Panoptic and ES 40 for some time I conclude I like the Panoptic 5% more than the ES. This sounds pretty arbitrary but I have tried to put a figure on it and there is no area where I can say the ES is better through my eyes and my telescopes. To be honest the ES has a slightly larger field despite having a shorter focal length and the same declared angular field. If it were a question of finance alone I would opt for the ES, but this is astronomy and once you have gleaned a 1% improvement that clinches any decision. I
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