Adreneline

And if you have your MasterDark and MasterFlat loaded you can select to view the image as raw or calibrated.

I view them in APP! Just double click on the first .fit file once you've loaded them into APP and step through and view each one in turn. Right click and APP gives you the option to Remove from the stack or Delete from the stack.

Good question! The ASIair has a huge database of objects and as I said above you can always input the exact position using coordinates, e.g. RA center: 20h 59' 10" DEC center: +60° 38' 55". I've done a few mosaics where the best pane centres did not coincide with a nice star/object on which to centre. Putting coordinates in worked really well and you can always pick those coordinates up off any planetarium program. Good luck with the ASIair. I have two (ASIair-Pro with a RedCat+ASI1600MM-Pro+ZWO-EFW+ZWO-EAF and ASIair with Samyang 135mm+ASI183MM-Pro) and would not trade them for anything. Adrian

Hi, I use an ASIair and an ASIair-Pro with SkySafari on an iPad and they work really well together. First thing to appreciate perhaps is that the ASIair does not need SkySafari at all. You can instruct the ASIair to slew the mount to a given target, say M31 or IC1396 or even an angular position in the sky, and it will slew the mount to that point, plate solve and re-sync as needed until the imaging scope is pointing exactly at the designated target. The better your setup PA the the better the first slew to target and the quicker the mount will be on target. However, that said, using SkySafari helps you see the intended FoV for your particular equipment configuration. Providing SkySafari (on the iPad) is connected to the same network as the ASIair the two will sync together. You can select a target in SkySafari, say IC1805, and slew the mount. You can then take a test image in ASIair (using Luminance - maybe 5s) and plate solve and select 'Sync Mount'. Go back into SF and re-centre and you should be spot on target. You can double check by taking a second 5s image and plate solving and re-sync'ing the mount once more. I rarely use the ASIair without SF - they are a marriage made in heaven for me. I hope this makes sense. Please ask if you need more clarification or screen shots and I'll try and sort something for you. Good luck. Adrian

Welcome. Enjoy the journey! Adrian

I use it with care. I use the Low Light mode and generally set Enhance Sharpness to zero and Remove Noise to <15. I also find it works a treat on terrestial photography, again used with care - it is easy to overdo it.

Hi. Very interesting! I mainly image with ZWO cameras and an ASIair but I want to do some imaging with my 6" RC and a Canon M6 MkII using BackYardEoS - I need to get guiding working with my CEM25-EC mount but to date I have been beset by problems. I will definitely give it a go at the first opportunity and let you know. Adrian

Interesting. I noticed when using PHD2 to create a dark library and BPM with my ASI120MM-mini and my ASI290MM-mini that PHD2 kept losing connection with the camera(s), more so with the longer (>3 s) exposure times. I rarely use a PC with my setup but when I do I have experienced loss of connection problems with the guide camera.

I don't use StarSense - I use a PoleMaster with an iOptron CEM25-EC. The PoleMaster doesn't communicate with the mount at all - it doesn't need to. It allows you, with the help of a PC running the QHY software, to accurately align the mount. The mount doesn't need to be switched on at all. In my case I then power-up the mount and the ASIair and I'm good to go. I still slew to a star and platesolve a couple of times with the ASIair but the slews are usually very close first time and very little correction is needed. Hope that makes sense. As an aside, if you have SharpCap, then you can use the PA routine in that software and it will happily connect to your PoleMaster camera.

The MC is colour.

I use my RedCat primarily with an ASI1600MM-Pro. I also have an ASI183MM-Pro which I use with a Samyang 135mm, however, in theory the ASI183 is a better match to the RedCat than the ASI1600. That said I am delighted with the results I get with the RedCat+1600.

An amazing result - your image has a real sense of three dimensional depth to the galaxy. All too often images of M101 - including my own! - appear quite two dimesional and flat. Adrian

As an aside Steve when you buy your RedCat (you're bound to get one eventually ) you will find the RedCat BM fits perfectly inside the Samyang lens hood. Perfick! Adrian

Hi Stu, Well I know some would advocate doing just that but I'm not one of them. I have found there to be significant differences between flats taken with Ha, OIII and SII when compared with L. I am very much in the camp of having a master flat for each filter. I have my filters in a sealed EFW (on my RedCat) and I never (or very rarely) breakdown the image train so having taken flats for each filter I just keep using the same flats time after time (along with their matching Dark-Flats). My Samyang currently has a manual filter drawer fitted but even there I would only repeat taking flats if I noticed dust bunnies on the subs. Whenever I change a filter I always give it a good blast with the rocket-blower and hope for the best! Good luck. Adrian

Very nice - really like the colours. The bottom right quadrant is my favourite part of the the image. Adrian

Great field of view. Wow!

I think it is unwise to use Ha as L in an RGB image; it will tend to give the image a pink'ish hue which in my opinion is not that appealing. A better approach is to blend Ha with the R channel using a Lighten (max(R,Ha))or Screen (1 - (1-R) * (1-Ha)) in PixelMath. You can vary the amount of Ha you blend with the R to give the effect you want to achieve. My own experience with collecting L has been disappointing but that may be due to previously high levels of light pollution or my own processing limitations I gave up with LRGB in favour of HaRGB but now I tend to only image in broadband. Apologies for not answering your other questions but I am sure there are others with more relevant experience who will give you a more informed answer. Adrian

No, not really. I warm the camera and park the mount. Once the camera is at 0 degrees I disconnect from SkySafari and then shut down SKySafari and the ASIair app on my iPad, walk outside and switch off the mount and then the ASIair. Not sure I consciously wait for 20 seconds though. Adrian

I run my cameras at -20. When I finish an imaging session I set the camera temperature to 0 degress and bring the camera temperature up steadily before switching off the ASIair.

What a great start Jody. You should be very pleased with that as a first image - and what a great field of view! Adrian

Great image Tristan but the SGL version is not displaying for me - just getting the image holder and a '?'. The Astrobin image is amazing. Thanks for sharing. Adrian

Great result Steve. Patience and perseverance has won the day. It will be great to see what you achieve with your Samyang 135mm + ASI533MC-Pro using the L-Extreme filter. Enjoy! Adrian

I'll send a message to FLO to advise them to up their stock levels

Very nice Des. You even managed to start to get a hint of the elusive Squid nestling within Sh2-129. Great stuff. Adrian

Excellent Lee. With these sort of results during short, 'not-dark' nights you should be on to great things once astro darkness returns. Adrian