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Everything posted by Adreneline

  1. Thanks guys for your interest. They are all going to a good home - to be used! Adrian
  2. These are FREE to whoever would like them + postage costs (cheapest unless you specify otherwise): If no one is interested they are going to a second hand bookshop. All in good used condition. Thanks for looking. Adrian
  3. Exactly my experience although I managed to find focus with the extensions still in place albeit with little extension on the drawer tube. I've only managed one image with mine so far but I was fairly pleased with the end result (unguided). There's always room for improvement Adrian
  4. That is just so revealing Lee - makes you think and reflect - exactly what it should do. Does PI tell you how many PGC's it has identified? Thanks for sharing. Adrian
  5. Yes - FLO sell the bar and fittings you need. The RC really needs a much longer lower bar that extends beyond the back of the OTA. HTH
  6. Yes - a SW EvoGuide 50ED with ASi120MM-mini - for guiding. It can be quite tricky to achieve DEC balance once the camera and R/F are fitted on the RC; the EvoGuide helps in that respect. HTH
  7. I have one and it seems to work a treat - not noticed any issues at all. HTH
  8. This is a really good image and nicely framed up too. I agree with all of the points suggested by @Rustang. I took the liberty of removing the gradient and performing a tiny bit of noise reduction. If you're using PS it might be worth taking a look at GradientXterminator to help with gradient removal; there is a free trial so you can assess if it is worth buying. It might also be worth trying DeepSkyStacker (also free) to calibrate, register and integrate your images, especially once you've taken bias, dark and flat frames. Great result considering you are imaging und
  9. This one gets the big thumbs up from the wife so it’s a winner. I like it too! Excellent job once again. Adrian
  10. I’ve had exactly the same experience with the Samyang. It must be related to the lens because when I use the Astronomik L3HOS or Baader LRGB with my RedCat they are truly parafocal. Adrian
  11. I was advised to aim for 23:23:23 - not sure why 23. I guess it provides adequate ‘blackness’ without suppressing feint nebulosity too much. HTH
  12. Thanks Lee - I'm a bit of a fan of starless images - they give you a different insight into what's there. Thank you Lee. The Bortle round here is apparently 4 but where I live I think it is closer to 3; the two nights of imaging were also exceptionally clear which helped a lot. I use the lens wide open at f2; I've found no benefit in stopping it down at all. The camera gain is set at 120 operating at -20 degrees. I have no idea what the offset is as the ASIair does not allow you to control that feature. The IFN is barely apparent on the stacked master. Following edge cropping and
  13. Thank you! Thank you Tristan. I know a lot of folk don't like starless but I think it lets the structure and depth come through sometimes; star filled nebula can sometimes appear quite planar and two-dimensional - in my honest opinion, of course Adrian P.S. To those who like to look for these things the structure to the left looks like a wolf's head
  14. This is the longest I've spent on one region for some time. Two sessions resulting in (37 x 180s) + (90 x 180s) (equating to 6hrs 21mins) of OSC data of the IFN region around M81 and M82. Taken with a Samyang 135mm + ASI294MC, unguided. I felt the starless image was more justified here because the IFN is beyond the galactic plane and hence beyond the stars. I also removed M81 and M82 - badly. Processed in APP, PI and Affinity. I feel as though I have now adequately scratched my IFN itch and will be moving on to other things. As always C&C welcome.
  15. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/books/dark-art-or-magic-bullet-steve-richards.html
  16. Great colours, framing and detail. A winner! Adrian
  17. Very nice image with great detail. You don't say which software you are using for processing your data. I was advised by SGL members not to replace the Luminance with Ha as you will likely as not get very 'pink' results. Far better is to blend the Ha in with the Red data with a Lighten blend (some recommend Screen) as this will give you increased detail and a more balanced output. You need to experiment with the opacity of the Ha to determine the best result. HTH
  18. Sorry - I misunderstood. I can't see that would make any difference. Once the filter glass is in the light path then a few millimetres backwards or forwards has no effect - it's all down to the thickness of the glass. Hope you manage to get it sorted. Adrian
  19. I've used that approach when trying to fine tune to establish the spacer thickness I need BUT the image train will droop unless you are really careful and then you'll have a whole new problem to solve. Mixing filter brands inevitably means compromise somewhere. Because I tend toward NB I decided that I'd compromise with the LRGB; I just wasn't prepared to buy new LRGB filters. Rotating the filter in the holder won't change anything - the refractive index of the filter is a function of the glass used and not it's rotational position. Introducing a medium in the light path will push th
  20. I use a mix of Baader LRGB and Astronomik LHOS in my 8-position filter wheel and the focus position for the Baader compared with the Astronomik is significant. I have opted to have the Astronomik focus within the 'L' with the Baader focussing someway before the 'L'. I understand the Baader filters are ~3mm thick and the Astronomik are ~2mm thick; this difference in thickness will have an effect on lens focus position. Recognising the introduction or removal of 0.15mm spacer can make a significant difference in the focus position with the Samyang it is not surprising that a change of filte
  21. I think you've got them - that's a very good image Adam - I wish I'd taken it! I love the colour and the detail you've captured. Adrian
  22. I use an iOptron CEM25-EC, ZWO ASI1600MC, EAF, EFW, ASIair Pro + Hitec Astro Dew Controller with a single dew strap on my RedCat. With the mount slewing and camera on and cooling this is the current being drawn from my 12V 200W switched mode PSU (set to 12.5V output): I don't use the power outputs on the ASIair Pro. I use a 4 way fan-tail with a single 12V supply cable from the psu (ASIair, EAF, 1600, mount). The dew strap power cable is separate. I don't use a guide camera but the extra load if I had one would be insignificant. I can't see how I would ever get to anywhere
  23. Sorry - forgot that. For RGB I understand it is best to combine whilst still linear, whereas for narrowband I have found it's best to combine once stretched.
  24. An inspiring image - brilliant job - flaw or no flaw - I'm for the big picture. Adrian
  25. Yes, that's correct. Magenta is the complementary colour to Green. I think basically any colour is good in a narrowband image but Magenta doesn't appear in the spectrum so I personally think it's fair to remove it - unless of course you are a fan of Magenta.
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