Adam J

Yes but to be honest they have been using that same design for the last 3 years now and it has been the bases of all their recent cameras. The itterations they went through in the first few years are likely due to them introducing their first cooled CMOS cameras and really this has not been an issue on anything they have released in the last 3 years.

Always ask permission if you value your marrage. It is an interesting one as I currently have AD narrow band and Baader RGB, I do get reflections from the blue filter and am tempted to go for either AD or chroma LRGB filters. Problem is I am not sure how much of it I should be putting down to the ASI1600mm pro causing reflections and how much is the filters. Its a complicated picture to be honest. Also I take 4 narrow band images for ever 1 LRGB image so its a case of value for money and justification. Adam

There are some designes that use two ED elements in a triplet APO, usually those are based on FLP51 or similar and they tend to perform very well, the TS 115mm triplet is a example of this. However in my opinion there will be a notable difference between the average FPL 51 doublet and and average FPL53 doublet expecually some that incluce Lanthanum doped flint elements. Adam

I doubt it will be a large sensor, if I had to guess it would be the IMX304 to position against some other manufacturers that are using it in their cameras. Adam

I am strongly considering one of these for a protable wide feild setup, connecting to my ASI1600mm pro and filter wheel on a Star Adventurer. Thinking that I will most likely match it up with an off axis guider. 40mm ED triplet,does not say which ED glass is used so could be anything, question is at 40mm and two ED elements will it matter???? Its about the perfect focal length to give me the FOV I am looking for and at F4.5 about as fast as I can go with 1.25 inch filters on the ASI1600mm pro without serious vignetting and I dont want to buy bigger astrodons. One of the reasons I am not so keen on the Samyang 135. I would go for a Redcat but to be honest this setup will not get used often enough for me to have a £700 scope sitting around depreciating. This is pritty much 100% new to the market and I believe its effectively made by Sharpstar, so no example images avaliable yet. Hence the question, am I nuts to buy on of these? Would welcome your thoughts. Adam

Seriously dont mess with it just send it back its not right. You dont pay that much to have to fix it yourself. Adam

You will need to set a custom white balance in the camera settings. But yes it will work. You will want the Baader replacement filter option to enable that. Cheap astrophotography will install one for you. Adam

The total difference in focus position between all filters on my Esprit 100 is 0.04mm meaning I don't really have to use filter offsets. So that is horrendous. I assume you are using the same filters as used on the FSQ85? Maybe take a set of LRGB without refocusing just focus on L and then show us what you get in each channel. Adam.

Lagoon and triffid showing nicely there. So you can tell it's modified.

Unless you are willing to modify it yourself then that is a mistake in my opinion even if you are only shooting milky way shots on a tripod. You will not get the large Ha regions coming through. Adam

Well you won't get anything with cooling for 300 pounds. A modified DSLR is probably the way to go. I recommend cheap astrophotography. https://m.cheapastrophotography.com/Available-Cameras.html A 1300D is at your price point. Adam

It should not be flopping like that, if you are not able to tighten it down then something is wrong. Lots of primary mirrors use several think slivers of cork between the mirror and the older on the read surface to buffer it. If something like that is missing it may explain your issue. 100% call your supplier and stop trying to colimate it there is no point with mirror doing that. Adam

Take care most of those comments are in very old posts >5 years ago, I have not heard many recent complaints yet these kind of things tend to get repeated without anyone knowing someone with a recent issue. Such is the nature of the internet.

If anything I would have said its from the same company as produces the ALTAIR cameras. Adam

Removed reply as I just noticed this is a zombie thread.

Its an ASI1600mm pro analogue or Atik Horizon or QHY163 or Altair Hypercam 1600 Pro. Personally if it was me I would be choosing between the ASI and the Horizon. Adam

Well if your reducing them you are going in the wrong direction. But that aside it's very critical.

I can believe with a TEC140 it is almost impossible to keep them fully aligned. Would be interesting to see if things would work better with a modern CMOS mono camera which would facilitate shorter subs then than the CCDs and hence certainly mean less movement over the course of a sub exposure. I do like the sounds of the active optics solution though. Adam

never like shimming as a solution as I alwasy worried about interducing tilt so if keeping LPF1 I would still go with the clear glass filter.

Baader do a replacement filter along the same lines with UV/IR blocking but I would not recommend it as it results in refelctions. Adam

No problem, Its this one BTW. https://www.astronomik.com/en/photographic-filters/mc-glass-for-dslr-astromodification/astronomik-mc-klarglas-for-canon-eos-1100d-1200d.html

no it will not be sufficiently thick to allow you to focus. You need a astronomic clear glass filter to be placed within the camera.

Just look at the floating point performance. In general though number of cores if more important than frequency on modern processing applications.

Its an interesting one for sure, clearly this sensor is designed to work in daylight and with an IR illuminator at night making it an ideal sensor for security cameras and reversing cameras etc. Suppose it could be used for IR imaging in the astronomy market. Adam

Prolific no, but you will get them on some targets for sure. Horse and Flame being one. SADR being another, the jellyfish, Gamma Cas, some of the brighter stars around M42, M45 for sure. You get the idea. If you really cant stand the effect then the ASI1600mm pro is not a camera for you. Adam