jock1958

Hi @John I’ve just had a look at my ST 2 and apart from a small amount of backlash when the axis are locked there’s no additional movement. If it’s a fairly recent thing just wondering if the locking collars at the end of the rotational shafts have worked loose? from memory they are held in place by 3 grub screws. Last time I stripped mine down I also ensured the contact areas of the Alt & Az shafts and locking lever bushes were thoroughly de-greased.

Spot on with your analogy in communicating how you used to make things work, all I can say the combinations I’ve used so far have been endless and mind boggling! For native low power views I reduce back focus with an ultra short clamp & adapter on my Tak FC-100DL in conjunction with a 1.25” Baader prism diagonal with a 2” nose piece. If it’s high powered views (more back focus) I’ve been using the 2” visual back that came with my Tak, Baader 2” mirrored diagonal and the lens off my Baader 2.25x barlow screwed into the BV nose piece or more lately my TV 2.5x power mate.

The old Latin proverb “Fortune Favours the Brave” springs to mind here and mightily glad that it’s worked out for you! Im still in the early days of binoviewing and like Dave @F15Rules says not quite sure what magnifications I’m getting with barlows etc fitted but it’s been fun experimenting.

Excellent work Mike I love it!

I know exactly where you are coming from, I ended up using a penny washer in the slot to give them an extra tweak.

Hi Stu and a very warm welcome to SGL. Lots of very knowledable folk on here who are more than willing to impart their wisdom so enjoy!

Have you tried other UK vendors like RVO & Widescreen Centre? or you sticking with FLO?

The first line of your original post would sum up my exact feelings "The End of the World" 😫 For me the DF would make a lot of sense If you are fitting a FT Pinion Focuser, you would have the extra travel on the focuser, a 2" visual back whilst retaining the Takahashi originality. I have one fitted to my DL and love it.

Bought this paint after reading the same or similar CN post to touch up my 2004 Tak FS-60C clamp, however I found it a little dark and had to add some white, next time might order the paint that @Stuart1971 suggests 🤔 As you say there's a marked difference between the latest Tak blue and the earlier Tak green, why they changed it I'll never know? BTW your EM 2 mount and tripod looks the biz, I'll have to keep my eye out for one for my FC-100DL 😃

Like it Olly never seen anything like that, you’ve got me hooked...I assume by pushing or pulling on the black knob you get incremental small movements on focuser or am I totally wrong?? 🤔

Hi Chris, noticed this on an American website 18 months or so ago and was wondering when and if @FLO would add it to their site, it certainly looks the part and maybe an ideal starter package for someone 🤔

Hi Jonathan welcome to the SGL !

I asked Derek at Rowan last year about this and they only do cables 420 mm long with 8mm I/D end fittings. Maybe if they have enough enquiries they will make some adapters or cables to suit the ST 2 or other mounts 🤔

I was after some long super flexible cables for ages even contacted Rowan but they are the wrong size end fittings for my ST 2 so went down the old DIY route again and made my own. 6mm strimmer drive cables off eBay, 6mm internal diameter end fittings cut from stainless steel tube from local metal suppliers, electrical heat shrink & tubing off eBay. They are much better than the Skywatcher offerings that for me are too short and stiff, probably not as good as @Dave Cherrett cables. Oh and I used the control knobs off the front drive on my ST 2 that I don't use.

I believe the internal diameter of the AZ 100 cables end fittings is 8mm and Skytee Slo Mo drives is 6mm so you will need an adapter or make your own like I did

It was a bit of a DIY experiment (lash up) when I was having trouble locating Neptune. The setting circle base was made from a 12mm thick sheet of Ethafoam which if cut slightly tight gives you a nice bit of grip without being too loose, I downloaded the setting circle from the web and sandwiched it between some fairly thick fablon before gluing to the Ethafoam base. The pointer is nothing fancy, its made from a 6mm diameter aluminium bar which I cut a thread before carefully bending in a vice, the base plate is cut from a 6mm aluminium rectangular bar then drilled and tapped for the pointer to screw into, its then attached with velcro to the Skytee, however I have considered a magnetic plate. For the Alt Axis readings I use a ujk technology level box which attaches magnetically to a steel plate which I also use to attach my Telrad to. Hope that helps a little.

They are probably working to tight schedules and budgets and quality wasn’t much of a consideration. Just imagine what Rowan could do if they could produce something similar and call it say an AZ50!

Excellent clean up job on your components, did you soak them in a trich bath or use a degreaser spray? Gives you a chance to have a good look at all the bits and bobs and like you said spot the “machining inaccuracies”

I’m using this multi purpose grease for use on wheel bearings and universal joints just now. Think I bought it in Halfords or local motor factors. Next time I might try Aeroshell grease 33. Anything’s better than that Synta glue.

Forgot to mention you will need to loosen the 2 black grub screws off at the same time. Little adjustments at a time and see if that improves things. Also if the previous owner hasn’t done so already replace that horrible glue grease and you will be one happy ST 2 owner 😀

Hi @Stu I found the majority of backlash in mine was in the Alt axis and by incrementally decreasing the gap between the Alt Slo Mo worm gear shaft housing and Alt fitting the back lash gradually reduced, you will need to loosen the 2 Allen screws on the front and tighten the one on the top while you do this.

Yeh worked on 747’s for 16 years and we used green grease 33 on the flying controls, undercarriage, flaps and main exit / entry doors. Excellent at very low & high temperatures so should be ideal for the ST 2.

Yours looks mint in comparison to mine, I think the QA guy must have been wearing sunglasses 😎 when he checked mine. You wait and see there will be a rush for ST 2 owners to strip theirs down for comparison checks 🤣

Hi Pete mines definitely not cast iron it’s non magnetic and would possibly show signs of corrosion / rust on the exposed surfaces, oh and maybe it would be a lot heavier 🤔

Yeh I agree I think it maybe some sort of cast aluminium alloy?