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alacant

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Everything posted by alacant

  1. alacant
    Thanks Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug. TIA
  2. alacant
    Thanks Would this prevent the tingle? If so, how would I do that? The DC end has has a standard 5.5 X 2.1 plug. TIA
  3. alacant
    Thanks everyone. As the tingle is always there, I think I can rule out static. So, coming back to the car-battery-or-linear-psu advice, can anyone recommend a substitute for a cheap 12v 5A model? @Anthonyexmouth thanks for the specific psu (exactly what I need) but I think the link points to a switching model of 13.8v. So, anyone any recommendations for a 12v 5A linear psu? TIA
  4. alacant
    Hi everyone Well, not exactly a shock, more a surprise 'tingle' when touching the metal part of the mount/telescope/focuser/camera. Happens with most mounts. I have tried two cheap 12v 5A switch power supplies, one with a three pin and the other with a two pin mains lead.with the same result. I'm told I need either a car battery or a linear power supply to lose the leak. I don't want the former so, having a look around, I found this: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004349595403.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.113.6844356e6DaLnO&algo_pvid=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410&algo_exp_id=ce93851a-1906-4092-85b6-be4e2e6d8410-56&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000028856749257"}&pdp_npi=3%40dis!EUR!102.1!66.37!!!!!%402100bc5c16787906922808092d0737!12000028856749257!sea!ES!168948195&curPageLogUid=YICs6qqBuMUx Would that be any good? Alternatives you have tested personally? I've no idea about electrics so any help or guidance anyone could give would be most gratefully received. TIA
  5. alacant
    Hi My guess is that with a bin2 stack of those, you'd be hard pressed to notice, especially if the session included a flip. I'd stay stay right where you are. Cheers
  6. alacant
    Hi If it reaches focus like that, then yes. You're done. If not, pull it out bit by bit until it does. Add more extension tubes if necessary, but forget about the 55mm. Cheers
  7. alacant
    No.
  8. alacant
    Any change if you cover the guide telescope? Light pollution? Gain set at 48? Is there noise if covered during the day? Try another cable. Does the camera work with other apps? [...] Cheers
  9. alacant
    Hi Use one of these: https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ex5aT7x plus 27mm of m48 extension tubes: 18mm back focus + 10mm adapter + 27mm gives you the magic 55mm needed for the flattener. A 12mm and a 15mm pair from the same supplier will get you there. But... Even better, get a set of tubes so you can vary the distance. Take 55mm as a starting point only. Cheers and HTH
  10. alacant
    Sorry. I think that term is local to here. I should not have used it. SBIG is the company which introduced on camera guiding many years ago. That is the same (non ASCOM) method I recommend to begin with and which is explained above. My recommendation stands. Forget ASCOM for now. All you need running on your computer is PHD2. Cheers
  11. alacant
    ASCOM alone will do nothing. You also need the EXOS2-goto driver, the latest version of which is available here. Probably best to stick to your plan A, keep it simple and get the SBIG method working first. Many I know still use this method to guide. Cheers and here's hoping the clouds will part soon.
  12. alacant
    For the method I gave, yes. There is a second method where you can control the mount using a planetarium program. Maybe get this method going first before throwing more software at it?
  13. alacant
    Yes.
  14. alacant
    PHD2 is software for guiding. You'll not be able to see the mount moving whilst using its NSEW commands, but will be able to detect movement of a starfield whilst so doing. You may also be able to hear a faint buzz from the motors too. To move the mount, use your handset. Can't see where you are but sorry about the cloud. However it's only to be expected after you buy a new camera! Cheers
  15. alacant
    Ah, so you now have it connected? All that's left is to read the phd2 manual. If not... The simplest way is to connect the camera via usb to your computer as you have already. Now, connect the camera to the mount using the other cable -the one which is isn't usb- which was also supplied with the camera. Next, with both camera and mount connected: - Open PHD2 and create a new profile using the wizard. - Enter your guide telescope focal length - Choose 'on camera' for the mount selection. - Focus the 120 on a star and... That's it. Be sure to read the phd2 documentation which is a available in the 'Help' menu -and can be downloaded as pdf- and/or go along to an astro club meeting. Guiding is far easier the first time if someone is there to help and will save you hours of frustration. Cheers and HTH
  16. alacant
    Hi The short answer is, no. Further than that, we'd have to guess; we don't know what is connected to what, which cables are in use nor -apart from así- which software is installed. Cheers
  17. alacant
    Hi No. That is the link to download the -open source- software. There are many, but before jumping in, it's probably best to have aims as to what you want to do. The first one I came across on a YT search was the one below, but keep looking and keep reading bearing in mind that there's a lot of rubbish and misleading ap stuff in Internet. My advice would be to go along to an astro club. It's so much easier having someone alongside who knows what they're doing and there's sure to be a mac guy who will help get you started. In an hour, rather than DIY in a year!
  18. alacant
    Hi Dither hits the mount hard and flings it a good way off the lock. DEC in particular struggles to recover. Wondering if you really need all that movement... Reducing the dither may help, as would waiting longer for the dither to settle before beginning the next frame. Otherwise like all mounts, there's only a limited amount software can do and it's a case of tearing apart, cleaning and lubricating followed by meticulous adjustment. Cheers and HTH
  19. alacant
    Hi Add an INDI server and you have a complete imaging system for the Mac; all three run natively. https://indilib.org/get-indi/download-mac.html Or... Perhaps to begin with and as the heq5 has a guide port, keep it simple by connecting the mount directly to the 120 using the ST4 cable and use PHD2 to guide 'on camera'. HTH
  20. alacant
    Thanks everyone. Some useful thoughts. Disclaimer: I've been forced into this. I hate looking at graphs and am fed up with pulling mounts apart because the graph "isn't good enough". But anyway... Here is my analysis of a supposedly misbehaving eq6 mount. Gears only. Hysteresis: Now with PPEC at 122s: We had the dreaded 10s spike on this example which was fixed by moving the driven gear relative to the idler gear a few teeth. That left the 122s PE.. Hesitant conclusion Using PPEC for RA is I feel a good idea. The belt kits I doubt are going to give more, if any, benefit than the algorithm. Oh, and (note to boss): the cost. Cheers and thanks again.
  21. alacant
    Does converting -e.g. an eq6 mount- from geared to belt driven reduce backlash? Thanks
  22. alacant
    Hi Amazing detail for such a short time. I think the flat frame calibration may need a tweak though. Cheers.
  23. alacant
    Indeed... Strange, since ASI list the Bayer on a 585 as RGGB. Maybe something happened after the image left the camera but before being written to storage🤨
  24. alacant
    Hi Post a -link to- a single .fits. We will then almost certainly be able to offer specific help. Cheers
  25. alacant
    Hi The GSO dual speed is usually very good, unless you're nearing the limit of what it can hold. Depending upon how far out from the tube you are focusing, maybe around 800g. It would be easier to help if we could see the tilt. Single frames are best for this. Collimate then take frames: -before and after re-seating the camera in the focuser. - tension screw tighter and looser - more or less torque on the locking screw. - before and after a meridian flip - before and immediately after rotating the camera 90° Also... - How is the mirror held to its cell? - What method of guiding? - How is the tube supported? (dovetails, top rails...) - optical train detail That should get us started. Cheers.
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