alacant

Hi You still have the choice of being outside, just not necessarily next to the telescope;) LOL... Exactly!

My gf informs me that it's the formation of a flying flock we should be looking for. And she should know; she once joined the stars of m44 to make a bee pterodactyl;)

Hi everyone The EKOS scheduler did everything from starting by plate solving a reference frame and slewing to its centre 90 minutes before the meridian, guiding, the flip, re-centre and another 90 minutes after. Monitored via TeamViewer, we returned to find a neatly parked telescope with the job done. Recommended:) Had a quick google image search for the colours but couldn't find consensus; it seems anything goes. Maybe it could stand sharpening... Thanks for looking and any comments as always most welcome. 700d on 200-f4: 3 hours @ ISO800 ambient:26º sensor 33º

Hi Best to remove the diagonal. This should give you an idea of the distance you require: HTH

But they gave you a good alternative. Vnc in from your 'phone is probably easiest from there. Cheers and good luck.

Hi If I understand correctly, you are using indi's eqmod and canon drivers to control your mount and camera and they work under EKOS. Try: indiserver indi_eqmod_telescope I'm assuming the command line app on a mac does the same as a Linux terminal. Anyway, if that command returns we know indi_joystick is an omission. The executable should be in your path so no, but just in case maybe try the commands /usr/bin/indiserver /usr/bin/indi_eqmod_telescope That's where executables normally live on Linux at least. If not, we need a mac user to chip in...

You should type: indiserver indi_joystick HTH

Yes. It was added with indi 1.7.something so it should be included. I'm not a mac person but I'd guess you downloaded the latest version and ran the installer? IOW, whatever you did to install what you have now but with the latest version. But that's a guess... --- --- --- I'm not sure why you'd want a paddle with eqmod though... Let's hope a mac user can get onto this:)

It's included in the latest indilib so it should already be there unless it's a mac specific omission. Can you call it from the command line? ~$ indiserver indi_joystick 2019-08-07T09:37:03: startup: indiserver indi_joystick If not, my advice would be to upgrade to the latest indi (I think that's the one you get when you install kstars from here) or if you're brave, build it from the indi source and if still no go, ask on the indi forum. Cheers

NP, but warning... I use Linux and so am rendered incapable of explaining anything IT related in terms that anyone normal can understand! But I'll try... Here are links to gimp and startools, both of which are imaging apps. There are mac and windows versions too. Wavelet sharpen and wavelet denoise are extras you can add to gimp. If you find a better way to remove dslr chroma noise, do please share. Cheers and HTH

Hi. In this case GIMP's wavelet denoise. On 16-bit, StarTools is the only app I've found which deals properly with OSC (FWOABW) mottle. Cheers and HTH **M55: no idea it was there. If I can get my hands on our big reflector, I'll have a go tonight. But hey, really good to get anything like that low.

Hi. Excellent. I think it's good. I de-noised it a bit:

Thanks so much. I appreciate it. It looks nice. Yes, I see. You have white stars. Try as I may, unless I take the blue highlights down, I cannot get white. Dunno. Filters? Mine is an unfiltered camera lens and the eos is astro modified. Could that be it I wonder? Cheers.

Hi and thanks. Yeah, the colour I find the most difficult in processing anything. It seems more and more futile looking for Google images. There are as many star colour variations as there are stars! Post your shot anyway. It may help with the stars. Maybe this is more like it?

Hi everyone A wide field view of M11. Haven't been able to separate the stars in the cluster so maybe this is a case of a lightly stretched layer underneath (?). An nice, flat old Russian lens. USSR I suppose then. Makes my Canon zoom look colourfully soft. Thanks for looking and any comments of course most welcome. Cheers and clear skies. eos450d @ ISO400

Hi Quite often, randomess between frames allows stacking to make the stars rounder. Maybe that will be good enough? Otherwise... Unfortunately, the Baader gives astigmatism at f4; the cross star shapes you see. If you have to stick with Baader, the Rowe will cure the astigmatism but is super prone to tilt. If all else fails, the -designed for Quattro- GPU just works. HTH.

Hi IMHO and as with most things in Spain, it's best done by word of mouth, beginning in the local bar. These guys should get you started. HTH.

Agreed! But not all is lost. There's something which I believe to be accurate. The illustration at the beginning showing the relative size -if not brightness; I recall being unable to fit it across the dslr diagonal on our 130pds. Cheers and clear skies everyone.

Hi everyone Couldn't see more than 10 stars through the mediterranean mud haze last night but hey, let's have a go anyway. Set the EKOS scheduler for 4 clusters, 24 frames each and went to the bar sleep. This one turned out best. Or at least it had the most stars. Interesting to see how the star density changes between scutum and cygnus. Thanks for looking and what do you think of the star colour? 450d on bresser 150

Hi. OK. I see what you mean. So yes, plenty of adjustment within which only a -very- small subset thereof will work. Cheers

Hi vlaiv, hi everyone Thanks. Nice post I don't think we have a choice. The guide camera sensor has to be at the same distance [1] from the prisim as the imaging camera sensor, [1] Agree. Setup with the filter in place. Focus the imaging camera then focus the oag. In that order. My oag has a mirror rather than a prism (better/worse?). Using a cheap t7 camera on a 254mm f5 has never been a problem even in the most barren stars fields of galaxy season. The improvement over using a guide telescope is remarkable. Cheers and clear skies.

Hi everyone There's something there, but it's lacking colour. Increasing saturation makes the stars look silly. Looks like we're gonna have to get the masks out of storage. Or maybe it just needs a bigger hammer on levels. Or the haze; last night we could see only bright stars. No milky way. Took the levels left in small increments, saving along the way, expecting the colour to emerge, but nada:( Any ideas? Thanks for looking. eos700d

Well done. You cracked it:)

Hi everyone. Another in the series, 'globulars whilst you wait for it to get dark'. This one is quite cute. C'mon guys. Have a go! 700d on 1200mm 40min @ ISO800

Hi Am assuming sw200p and eos6D This is what it looks like. No stars:( The eos will come to focus with a a 200p with a few mm to spare when racked most of the way in. Perhaps best to start by removing the barlow, rack in the focuser -with the 6d attached- all the way toward the tube and point somewhere in Cygnus. Now very slowly rack out the focuser. The telescope will only cover only a small central part of the 6d's sensor, so concentrate just on the centre of the field of view. Live view on your 'phone at iso 102400 is good for this. Keep racking outwards -very slowly- until you see stars. That's it. I'm lost again now! Cheers and HTH.