RT65CB-SWL

Hi @Bedlasky and welcome to SGL.

@Peco4321 Do your garden lights play/dance/react to Close Encounters of the Third Kind? 😂🤣

The Hi @Bullet and welcome to SGL. My guess after reading the above comments is that when only one set screw is used, there is a small amount of play and movement, therefore it is not parallel/perpendicular. The other set screw whether it is opposite or at 120o [four o’clock position] it allows it to become as close as possible to perpendicular. The HoTech SCA laser collimator on the other hand, uses a rotating collar and built in expansion ring or rings and therefore eliminates the use of a set screw or set screws in the eyepiece holder and gets it parallel/perpendicular. This is because the compression ring is expanding and creating equal pressure across the entire surface.

Pretty damn good @Mark2022 I would be well happy with that. As the saying goes: “Practice makes perfect!”

Hi @Lorenzo and welcome to SGL.

Never heard of telenegative projection until now. Thank you @Louis D for the explanation too!

Hi @sophh6699 and welcome to SGL. Question: What equipment do you have at the time writing/posting? To help with getting the answer for your needs. I would first suggest obtaining a copy of the books ‘Make Every Photon Count’ or ‘Digital SLR Astrophotography’. I have the first and second editions of the last book. There are two types of astrophotography... Prime focus. You use the OTA/‘scope as the camera lens and a 1.25” or 2” nosepiece adapter with a T-thread. Afocal. You use an eyepiece in an eyepiece projection unit or eyepiece projection adapter... abbreviated to EPU or EPA with a T-thread. Mostly used with a DSLR or digital compact camera and appropriate adapter. [image below]. This section is targeted for SGL’ers and visitors that own Olympus ’Camedia’ series digital compact cameras... [image below]. The tube next to the left of camera is a CLA-1 adapter and screws onto the camera body. The wider end is the T-thread and this screws into your EPU / EPA. This is what I use when attaching my Olympus C2040 digital compact camera to my ‘scopes. When the camera is not in use or powered off, the lens is retracted. note: For those that own and use Olympus ‘Camedia’ series digital compact camera, make sure you have the correct or purchase the CLA adapter for your camera. They are not universal and cannot be used with another model. BTW the image is the same as the setup I use... minus the conversion lens.

I am in a Bortle 5/6 area and surrounded by LED streetlights. A Neodymium or UHC filter may help, especially for visual. That said, I am not into astro-imaging at the time of writing/posting.

About zoom e/p’s. Like everything else, there is the good, the bad & the ugly. This is popular amongst many SGL’ers... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-planetarium/baader-hyperion-zoom-eyepiece.html You could also pair it with its matching Barlow lens too... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-planetarium/baader-hyperion-zoom-barlow.html What I particularly like about the Baader Planetarium zoom, (though I don’t own one), is that it is one of the very few that is dual-fit, (i.e. you can use it either as 1.25” or 2”). I did borrow one from a member of my local astro society/club a few years ago and was damn good in my ETX105. Just a few images of my ‘re-modded’ ETX105...

Hi @ashes and welcome to SGL. I have a ‘re-modded’ ETX105. It is about the same specifications as your ‘scope. May I ask what you were viewing? Mak’s and SCT’s are excellent for lunar and planetary observations, but as said above, long focal lengths do make things appear dimmer, especially with DSO’s. If your eyes are not fully dark adapted, this may be part of the problem. Some use averted vision, which simply means don’t try and concentrate on the centre, look slightly off centre, if that makes sense. The summer months are not the best months for observation, as the night skies are not totally dark. Also, bear in mind there have been wildfires worldwide and you maybe viewing through the particulates trapped in the upper atmosphere. After a rain shower or storm should clear things up a bit. I have a Baader Planetarium neodymium filter. I refer to it as my Swiss-army knife filter. I also use an Explore Scientific UHC filter and Olll. They can make huge difference and pleasant viewing experience. Regarding eyepieces, don’t buy a set. Many SGL’ers have positive reviews and vibes about these... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces.html but not sure about these... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/vixen-eyepieces/vixen-npl-eyepieces.html You could also/may consider an zoom eyepiece. Usually 8-24mm is the preferred choice. Saves a lot of faffing about when swapping out to get a higher magnification or filter... when you find the ‘sweet spot’. Only downside is the field of view can or may be narrower to an eyepiece of a fixed length.

Thank you for the clarification. I got confused then!

Isn’t that what the PR team said when the Beagle probe crashed on Mars after it became apparent that something or someone got confused with the units of measurement. The Russian space agency during the 1970’s / early 1980’s managed to land some probes [Venera / Венера] on the surface of Venus with great success and got some images and data during the later missions. Even though they remained operational for about one hour, I don’t think NASA or any other space agency has even attempted that amazing feat.

Eyepieces, ‘Barlow’ lenses, 1.25” star diagonals are stored in camera cases with plucked foam inserts. All other accessories, including a 2” SCT star diagonal, ’Crayford’ focuser and 2x focal reducers/field flatteners, are stored in a vanity case... or two!

Very nice!

An alternative idea for a microfocuser maybe a helical focuser. I have this type... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-125-t2-helical-focuser.html - you will need one of these too... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/diagonals/baader-nosepiece-125-t2.html

An alternative idea for a microfocuser maybe a helical focuser. I have this type... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-125-t2-helical-focuser.html and you will need one of these too... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/diagonals/baader-nosepiece-125-t2.html

Similar to @Stu1smartcookie, except mine is a C6 and a ‘re-modded’ ETX105...

Hi @bosun21 If your trigger grip is of this type… …then @BinocularSky has written a user guide/manual for it. (see below). TG-manual.pdf

When I get on of my two refractors out during the daytime, the neighbour in the apartment/flat below mine, always wants to have a look at the Sun in white-light*. At night, I get a few passers by wanting to look at the Moon, Jupiter or Saturn. * filtered with a solar-wedge.

That’ll be the late Sir Terry Pratchett’s Fifth Elephant... @maw lod qan have you seen this topic?

On the news recently The Crooked House pub [originally known as Glynne Arms] was sold to a wealthy property developer. A month after the sale, arson destroyed it and now demolished. The local police force are treating it as suspicious.

Thank you @Stu1smartcookie Looking at the original image on my iPad 2, I can see the Hyades too!

Before setting of for work at LHR at 03:16BST this morning, a nice conjunction of M45 [Pleiades], Moon & Jupiter in Taurus/Aries. Just been looking a Sky Safari 6 and seen that Uranus was there too, (may be hidden within the glow from the Moon). Quite pleased with the result and outcome of this image, even though the Moon is overexposed, and that the phone camera sensor is sensitive enough to register M45. The image was handheld, (about three seconds exposure), and taken with an iPhone 12.

Take five! 🤔 I would keep these… TeleVue Nagler 13mm [type 1 & type 6] TeleVue Radian 6mm & 8mm Svbony 6mm UWA [red-line & gold-line] [AstroBoot] 1.25”/18mm UWA SkyWatcher 2”/28mm LET|LER If zoom e/p’s are allowed, then I am keeping these too… TeleVue Nagler 3-6mm Svbony SV215 3-8mm unknown [AstroBoot] 7-21mm

Hi @Xxjrhxx and welcome to SGL. First... an SCT star diagonal. They are so much safer and secure to use than the traditional 1.25” or 2” push-fit. Second... an f6.3 field-flattener/focal-reducer [often abbreviated to FF/FR]. Reduces the exposure times when you add a camera. Third... a ‘Crayford’ focuser. Helps eliminate mirror flop & slop. Preferably a dual-speed. I have a single speed and it's OK for my needs. I use all three with my C6/SCT and on my ‘re-modded’ ETX105, though not all at the same time!