RT65CB-SWL

Hi @PaulG_SF and welcome to SGL.

G'day @doublebacon and welcome to SGL. This is my binoculars... ...7x50 (left/top) and 20x80 (right/bottom). You can use any photo tripod, (mine is the Manfrotto 055PROB). with any suitable head. The head in the images is one of the popular joystick/trigger grip/ballhead - the fitting is 3/8" - you can also use a monopod and head. You may also need a reducer if the tripod/monopod is 1/4" If you do not have either a tripod or monopod at present; use an inverted soft broom/brush, (wrap the head in some soft material), and secure the binoculars to the head with a short bungee cord. Or you could make a simple pole with a suitable length of broom handle/curtain pole/dowel and an 'L' bracket. An alternative mount, though expensive, is the parallelogram. They can also be used for mounting spotting scopes and small telescopes... plus the comfort benefit of using from a chair or lounger.

That it is exactly what it is! ebay should be ashamed of themselves selling these dangerous items. Myself [and others] have written to ebay to complain to get them withdrawn from sale, but they do not. Not sure whether the site that shares its name with a South American river/rain forest sells, or other online warehouses, sell them though!

Glass solar filters do have their downsides. Mine is just over twenty years old and has a few 'pin-pricks' and I do not use it now. Maybe its age is catching up with it. According to Thousand Oaks, (where mine is from), glass filters are not immune from defects. Therefore, solar glass filters also need to be checked before each and every use. Whichever solar filter you decide to purchase, avoid these...

Hi @WiltsStarGazer and welcome to SGL.

I have not tried BST Starguiders, but from what I have read here on SGL, (and elsewhere), they are very good. FLO are currently selling Vixen NPL's at a similar price, but I do not know how good they are. Sorry! AFOV... BST's 60deg - NPL's 50deg

Hi @MylesGibson. If you can post some images of your 'scope, then it would give us a idea on how to proceed to the next level. I did have look at various online images before my reply, but they were not showing a lot, especially around the area of fork mounting. Another place you could try is: Beacon Hill Telescopes. He is based in Lincolnshire. He makes bespoke items for astronomy use and has made a few accessories for me in the past. Have you any local engineering workshops nearby. Another invaluable source. I suppose I was fortunate to find one near me that was prepared to make a replacement backplate for my ETX105. It was a tad pricey for a 'one-off'. I was given an quote/estimate, but not to far off from it. I did not want to see a good OTA end up as another 'landfill' statistic. Like you, finding tube rings to fit was the next problem, (either to big or to small), as it was not a standard size and did not wish to drill and tap the OTA for the dovetail bar. Keep this topic going with your progress.

After reading this topic and suggetions, I think @fozzybear suggestion about attaching a dovetail bar directly to the OTA appears to be the most feasible option, though as he says, it will involve drilling and tapping holes into the OTA or one of the side plates, (I would prefer the right side), that holds the backplate in place, but I do not know how secure that part is, if @MylesGibson is confident enough to attempt it, though it would involve a total stripdown and rebuild, to prevent any foreign object debris; [FOD]; swarf, etc., getting into the mechanics and/or on the optical surfaces. But it is these side plates for the forks is the issue, as I think they are an integral part/piece of the backplate itself and that does concern me if they are/were to be removed or start drilling and tapping holes. @omo has suggested to contact Orion Optics which is an option. I would also get in contact with SCTelescopes and see what he would advise, before attempting anything at this stage. It is a triicky one to answer, unless you have an engineering or optical/mechanical engineering background, which I do not have. He has done restoration work on the late Sir Patrick Moore's telescopes and others. Out of interest @MylesGibson what is the OTA's weight? - I feel that using Jubilee hose rings, (as I have done with my 're-modded' ETX105), may not be substantial enough to support the weight of your 'scope. However, if you do decide to go the Jubilee hose rings route, you will need to purchase some felt, cork or neoprene strips to prevent them from scratching the tube. Disclaimer: I have written/replied to this topic in good faith. I do and will not accept responsibility for any injury, damages; (physical, mental, other); death, etc., to the end user or other persons that are using the telescope and/or damage or loss of any equipment, accessories, etc., during its operational use and/or modifications that are undertaken.

I will have a go!

Apology accepted.

Hi @fozzybear I have no objection to you or other SGL'ers using my image(s), unless it is in a Quote but please drop me a PM first out of courtesy. Thank you in advance for your cooperation.

Just a reminder that any solar filter; i.e. solar safety film, glass, etc., needs to be thoroughly checked for any defects before each and every use. If you do suspect any signs of pin-holes, tears, etc., DO NOT use it, or attempt to repair it.

OK guys and girls! ...don't say I did not warn you all ...here it is.... my 'little one' (i.e. bad-ass)... (click any image to enlarge it... go on... you know you want to)... 😜 Televue 13mm Nagler type 1 (left/top) & type 6 (right/bottom). The 'scope OTA is one half of a 50mm binocular that was purchased via AstroBoot and the star diagonal from an astro-outlet in Leeds, West Yorks. The e/p's just about achieve focus as they are shown in the images. I used the neighbours bungalow roof apex that is about 20 metres away. I then screwed in a 1.25" nosepiece extension to the e/p's and just raised the e/p's up a little [<5mm] to reach focus on a house roof that is about 210+ metres away. I did try the Sun with a solar wedge and an 18mm WA. It did focus, but did not see any 'large' sunspots. According to my calculations; the specifications are approximate and without the star diagonal: objective cell: 50mm focal length: 110mm magnification: 4x (with 13mm e/p) & 3x (with 18mm e/p). focal ratio: f/2.2

I quite agree @Ags. Mine are as per my signature; even though they are secondhand. There is something unique, historical or personal, to which only the owner can appreciate.

Sorry to hear this news. It gets me so angry! There are a few things I would do to them; but cannot. All because of 'Human Rights' etc.

Hi John. I just press the @ symbol and type the username without spaces. You will then see a list of possible users at the left of your monitor/screen that match. When I see the one I want, I just click-it... i.e. @cletrac1922 ...or mine @Philip R

That is almost as bad-ass as my 'little one'... ...though not yet tried it with my TV 13mm Nagler type 1 or type 6... stay tuned! 😜

I just use a 'cheap' aluminium/camera cases on wheels. I would like to store my 'scopes in a 'Peli' or similar... but have you seen the prices of them! If I am travelling 'light' then I use one these backpacks... ...and these to 'store' my eyepices...

Hi @KGX and welcome to SGL. When I owned a Vixen GP (images below)... ...I would move it with the RA & Dec clutches engaged and store it with them disengaged. Also removing the counter weight and removiing the counterweight shaft, when transporting the mount in my vehicle. I have read somewhere that it is best to keep the clutches disengaged and without the weights attached when stored. I am now using alt-az mounts... ...and I ensure that both axis are unlocked* when moved and stored in their cases. * this is recommended in the user guide/manual by AOK-Swiss; (the red mount). BTW - what 'scope do you use? - If is a catadioptric (i.e. Mak, SCT, etc.) it is best to keep it upright, (i.e. objective cell up), so any lubricant on the baffle tube does not 'drip' on to it when not in use for long periods, especially if it it is stored in a warm environment during the summer months if not being used for long periods of inactivity... and before use; move/slide the primary up and down, (using the focusser), a few times to keep it evenly lubricated.

Good evening and thank you for the replies. The idea was to attach my SCT crayford focusser to the backplate of my ETX105... ...as the focus knob and shaft are in the way, even when fully wound in. The adapter ring is the Baader ETX-SCT one. I have seen these SCT extension rings at www.scopestuff.com... ...and thought a variable one would be the better option. In the meantime I will stick with my 1.25" helical focusser and SCT star diagonal.

Good afternoon all. Is this adapter compatible with the SCT thread? If "No!",,,does anyone know if such an SCT adapter is available? Tnx in adv.

Very nice @johninderby.

Hi @Zac shimkovitz and welcome to SGL.

If you wish to move up from a Plossl have you contemplated or tried a Radian*? I use the 6mm with my TV Ranger and at f/6.8, (it is close to the spec of your 'scope), it is very good companion. My mounts, (AYO and Giro), are manual alt-az; so it gives me sufficient viewing time; before a gentle nudge to get my target back in the e/p and carry on observing. For wide-views I use a 13mm Nagler / type 6, and sometimes coupled with a 1.6x or 2.8x Barlow lens. * Radian's are now discontinued, (they do come up for sale from time-to-time)' and has since been superceded by the Delite range. AFOV for: Radian 60deg - Delite 62deg BTW - I think there is Radian for sale in the classifieds area.

Hi @CCD-Freak and welcome to SGL from another SGL'er across the pond.