wimvb

No, you have to save them. Normally you wouldn't save the rejection images. Depends, if you choose to over-write the originals and actively remove any pre- or post-fix, then the files are being over written. Otherwise each process creates its own files. After a successful integration process, you would normally delete intermediate files. Maybe keep the calibrated subs. Definitely keep your raw data. Better still, if it's just the integration process you want to redo, pixinsight keeps the latest files in cache memory, and any subsequent restacking (integration) will be much faster. All the integrations are independent from each other. You can mix any rejection algorithm. Eg linear rejection for L, percentile for R, G, and B, sigma clipping for Ha.

I'm sure you will need a paper weight sooner or later. 😉

How about the accuracy of the observatory location and time zone? That shouldn't put the first goto 15 degrees off, though. That's a whole time zone! (in ra/longitude at least)

I vary the coefficients in Kayron's formula. 50 x ecc + 25 x fwhm + 25 x snrw, depending on the data. Just make each of the three terms vary from 0 to 1 as in the tutorials. Then vary the proportions to taste. I've never done a thorough analysis, though. Weighting should decrease the snr in the final image as compared to plain averaging, afaIk.

I hope the ASI290 mini will do that for me. Otherwise I might go back to using a guide scope.

+1 I usually put that into the weighting formula.

I find "rejection low" a good indicator for the dynamic crop process

So did I, but now I've ordered an ASI290, which is supposed to be more sensitive. Many people use a Lodestar with their oag.

Very likely. Ekos sometimes gets confused when I try to point the scope close to the meridian. It tries to flip when it shouldn't.

(Park position,) plate solve and time. If you point at a target, and that target crosses the meridian, so must your mount. But as you say, if there is an error in the position, that will affect the flip. If you use more points in your mount model in Ekos, goto accuracy will increase, and maybe that will improve the flip as well.

Clouds can also cause this. Anyway, try to do the flip when the mount is well PAST the meridian, so the mount won't flip back and forth during attempted platesolving & goto.

Depending where you will be, either something from the grocery shop, or a double barrel shotgun. 😋

Not a bit. But depending on how far you push the primary in during collimation, you just might reach focus. One for the experts: is it an option to replace the six collimation screws on a sw newtonian with longer ones, and push the mirror in that way? Or maybe this is even the standard way of moving the mirror cell up? One would probably also need to lengthen the three springs. Just wondering, since I've never had this problem myself.

Where in Scandinavia will you be located? LP near any larger city is about the same as any other European city. But once outside reach of the light dome, you can enjoy fabulous dark skies. During the summer, you will need an anti mosquito filter.

Do you need an oag? Using a guidescope firmly attached to the main scope may be the easiest option. @tooth_dr and @Merlin66: won't moving the primary further in cause (more) vignetting? Especially with a dslr, which I suspect, has a large sensor. If so, that would create the need for a larger secondary.

The eq6 will probably be more future proof. But it's also heavier, so better suited for a permanent setup.

I believe that profiles and such are kept in a small sql database, which can be edited. If you feel like it... Personally I wouldn't bother, and keep the simulators to test new configurations and for troubleshooting.

And a very nice outcome it is. 👍

Of the three options given, #3 any time of day. PS will cost more in the end (you may also need to buy add-ons). GIMP is best bang for buck, but you'll end up because it lacks essential features. Depending on your requirements, of course. PI has all you need, although some things are easier in PS. In all honesty, download the free evaluation versions and test them. Most apps will allow this. Then go for the one you like best and can afford. Consider Astro Pixel Processor and StarTools as well.

... Especially the fov calculator. You will find that the 178 has a small chip and tiny pixels. The light, even from stars, that hit the sensor, will be smeared out over many pixels. Less light per pixel means more noise (lower signal to noise ratio actually). You will almost certainly need to bin those pixels or resample the image. Unless you can image from a high mountain top or a desert, it's better to go for a camera with larger pixels, so you get in the range 0.8 ... 1.2 arcsecs/pixel for galaxies, and maybe even higher for nebulae. For nebulae, you also need a shorter focal length, to get a larger field of view. The alternative is to pair the 178 with a shorter focal length, even for galaxies. But that will make a big dent in your bank account.

Indeed. And that's why the mount is so important, especially with long fl, large aperture reflectors.

https://indilib.org/forum/ekos/2602-simulator-profiles-not-removable.html May be of interest. I don't know the background for this decision. Maybe Ekos needs a profile present at first startup. But you can create a profile that is not called "simulator", and edit that. Eg, "myTestProfile". Just populate that with simulator drivers. It's also possible to mix "real" hardware drivers with simulator drivers for test purposes.

I thought this thread was "Show us your set up in action AT NIGHT". 😉

I haven't measured it yet, but the nights are definitely brighter than mag 18. Only 7 degrees further north, one can enjoy the midnight sun. Except for the summer triangle, there are basically no stars visible, and my scopes lack the focal length for any serious planetary imaging. I tried on Jupiter with my 150pds a few years ago. Never tried solar imaging, though. Up here, summer belongs to mosquitoes and barbeque.

Very nice image & write up. On my screen the background looks a tad green. But that should be easy to fix.